Seiryuso – Shimoda, pages 58–61

      CONTENTS

       The Ryokan Experience

       A Tradition of Fine Hospitality

       A Guide to Ryokan Etiquette

       AROUND TOKYO

       HAKONE AND MT. FUJI AREA

       Gora kadan – Hakone

       kai Hakone – Hakone

       kikkaso inn – Hakone

       Shuhoukaku kogetsu – Lake kawaguchi

       IZU PENINSULA

       Asaba – Shuzen-ji onsen

       kai Atami – Atami onsen

       Yagyu-no-Sho – Shuzen-ji onsen

       Seiryuso – Shimoda

       OTHER AREAS AROUND TOKYO

       Tokiwa Hotel – kofu

       kai nikko –Lake Chuzenji, nikko

       Honke Bankyu – Yunishigawa onsen, nikko

       KYOTO & NARA

       KYOTO

       Yoshida Sanso – northeastern kyoto

       Aoi kamagowa-Tei – Central kyoto

       Gion Hatanaka – Central kyoto

       Hiiragiya – Central kyoto

       kinmata – Central kyoto

       kinpyo – Central kyoto

       Seikoro inn – Central kyoto

       Hoshinoya kyoto – Arashiyama, Western kyoto

       Suisen – Yunohana onsen, kyoto

       NARA

       Shikitei – Central nara

       Wakasa Bettei – Central nara

       CENTRAL JAPAN

       Bettei Senjuan – Minakami onsen, Gunma

       Ryugon – Minami-uonuma, niigata

       Hoshinoya karuizawa, nagano

       Houshi – Awazu onsen, ishikawa

       Araya Totoan – Yamashiro onsen, ishikawa

       kayotei inn – Yamanaka onsen, ishikawa

       Wa-no-Sato – Miya Mura, Gifu

       WESTERN & SOUTHERN JAPAN

       nishimuraya Honkan – kinosaki onsen, Toyooka

       Tosen Goshobo – Arima onsen, kobe

       Sekitei – Miyahama onsen, Hiroshima

       Sansou Murata – Yufuin, kyushu

       Tenku-no-Mori – kagoshima, kyushu

       HOKKAIDO & NORTHERN JAPAN

       HOKKAIDO

       Ginrinsou – otaru

       kuramure – otaru

       zaborin – niseko

       Hina-no-za – Lake Akan

       NORTHERN HONSHU

       Saryo Soen – Akiu onsen, Sendai

       Tsuru-no-Yu – nyuto onsen, Akita

       Travel Tips

      THE RYOKAN EXPERIENCE

      Browsing through the ryokan brochures at a Japanese travel agency reveals much about the variation and intricacies of the ryokan. Some ryokan specialize in food, at others the baths are the star, while with a few the history and traditions are the main appeal, but in most cases it’s the combination of factors that makes a ryokan special. Take somewhere like Hoshinoya Kyoto, a contemporary ryokan, where you'll find Michelin-starred cuisine coupled with a blend of European and Japanese design sensibilities. At the historic Hiiragiya in Kyoto, the lore of the ryokan itself combines with impeccable hospitality and the finest of traditional kaiseki cuisine.

      One thing that unites all great ryokan, of course, is the food. The seasonal produce, regional specialties, and presentation will vary from ryokan to ryokan, but dinner usually follows the multi-course kaiseki template with a set succession of anywhere between seven or eight to a dozen or so courses. The culinary procession begins with a small, often single bite appetizer course—called sakizuke—designed to whet the appetite before the second course, the hassun, which appears with a larger selection of small dishes that will almost always include a fish of some kind and several other ornately presented seasonal morsels.

      An elegant starter course at Hoshinoya Karuizawa (see pages 140–143). Multi-course kaiseki meals are an integral part of the ryokan experience and many ryokan pride themselves on providing meals that are better than what you get in an expensive MIchelin-starred restaurant. Of course the room rates reflect this, but keep in mind that half or more of what you are paying for is the food.

      Next typically comes the mukozuke, a selection of three or four types of sashimi; perhaps a few slices of sea bream and some succulent small shrimp or scallop hearts. The season and the region will determine the selection, but being sashimi, all will of course be raw for dipping in a little wasabi and soy sauce. Next up comes the simmered takiawase dish, which could be any combination of vegetables or tofu with meat or seafood, and then the futamono dish—a light soup. After that will likely be a flame-broiled yakimono dish, which more often than not is seafood, before a vinegared suzakana dish that refreshes the palate ahead of the main dish (although several other small courses may also follow first),

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