PREFACE

      This unpretending little book is designed to give the visitor to Florida such information as will make his trip more useful and more pleasant. In writing it I have had in mind the excellent European Guide-Books of Karl Bædeker, the best, to my mind, ever published. Though I have not followed his plan very closely, I have done so to the extent the character of our country seems to allow.

      I have borrowed from him the use of the asterisk (*) to denote that the object so designated is especially noteworthy, or that the hotel thus distinguished is known to me to be well-kept, either from my own observation or that of friends.

      Most of the localities are described from my own notes taken during an extended tour through the peninsula, but for much respecting railroad fare, accommodations, and charges, I am indebted to a large number of tourists and correspondents who have related to me their experience. To all these I express my warmest thanks for their assistance.

      As of course such matters are constantly changing, and as I shall be most desirous to correct any errors, and bring the work fully up to the times in future editions, I shall esteem it a particular favor if those who use this book will forward me any notes or observation which will aid me in improving it. Such communications may be addressed “care of the Penn Publishing Co., 710 Sansom Street, Philadelphia, Penna.”

      The map of the St. John River is based on that drawn by my friend, Mr. H. Lindenkohl, U. S. Coast Survey.

      Philadelphia, August, 1869.

      PRELIMINARY HINTS

      THE SEASON FOR SOUTHERN TRAVEL

      The season for Southern travel commences in October and ends in May. After the latter month the periodical rains commence in Florida, and the mid-day heat is relaxing and oppressive. About mid-summer the swamp miasm begins to pervade the low grounds, and spreads around them an invisible poisonous exhalation, into which the traveler ventures at his peril. This increases in violence until September, when it loses its power with the returning cold. When one or two sharp frosts have been felt in New York or Philadelphia, the danger is chiefly past. Nevertheless, for mere considerations of health, November is soon enough to reach the Gulf States. Those who start earlier will do well to linger in some of the many attractive spots on their way through the more Northern States. A congestive chill is a serious matter, and even the lightest attack of fever and ague can destroy the pleasure and annul the benefit of a winter’s tour.

      PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY

      The comfort of a journey is vastly enhanced by a few simple precautions before starting. And if I seem too minute here, it is because I am writing for many to whom the little miseries of traveling are real afflictions.

      Before you leave home have your teeth thoroughly set in order by a skilful dentist. If there has been a philosopher who could tranquilly bear a jumping toothache, his name is not on record.

      A necessaire containing soap, brushes, and all the etceteras of the toilet is indispensable. It is prudent in many parts of the South to carry your own towels.

      Spectacles of plain glass, violet, light green, or light grey, are often a comfort in the sun and in the cars, and if the eyes are weak should not be omitted.

      A strong, silk musquito net, with fine meshes, will be highly prized in the autumn nights. A teaspoonful of carbolic acid or camphor, sprinkled in the room, or an ointment of cold cream scented with turpentine, will be found very disagreeable to these insects, and often equally so to the traveler.

      One or two air cushions take up but little room, and should be provided for every invalid.

      Shoes are preferable for ordinary journeys. In their make, let reason and not fashion rule. They should be double soled, have low and broad heels, lace firmly around the ankle, and fit loosely over the toes. Rubber boots or overshoes should be abolished, especially from the invalid’s outfit. Rubber overcoats are equally objectionable. They are all unwholesome contrivances. A pair of easy slippers must always be remembered.

      For ladies a hood, for gentlemen a felt hat, are the proper head-dresses on the route.

      In all parts of the South woolen clothing is required in winter, and flannel under-clothing should be worn by every one who goes there in pursuit of health. Next to flannel, cotton is to be recommended. It is more a non-conductor of heat than linen, and thus better protects the body from changes of temperature.

      Every person in feeble health – and those who are robust will not find the suggestion amiss – should have with them a few cases of devilled ham, sardines, potted meats, German sausage, or other savory and portable preparations, which, with the assistance of a few crackers or a piece of bread, will make a good lunch. A flask of wine or something similar, helps out such an impromptu meal. Frequently it is much better than to gulp down a badly cooked dinner in the time allowed by the trains.

      A strong umbrella, and a stout pocket knife, are indispensable. Guns, ammunition, rods, and fishing tackle should always be provided before starting. They should be well protected from dampness, especially the guns and powder. Florida is the paradise of the sportsman, and those who are able should not omit to have a “camp hunt” while there. Tents, camp equipage, and the greater part of the supplies should be purchased in the North, as they are dearer and not often the best in the Southern cities.

      On arriving at a hotel, first see that your baggage is safe; then that your room is well aired, and the sheets on the bed dry.

      It is always well in traveling to have baggage enough – always a bother to have too much. A good sized leather traveling-bag will do for the single man; but where a lady is attached, a medium sized leather trunk, which can be expressed or “checked through,” and a light traveling-bag, to be taken into the cars and staterooms, and carried in the hand, are the requisites.

      Money can be transmitted so readily by certified check or draft, that a tourist need not carry much with him. He should, however, have a reserve fund about him, so as to be prepared for one of those disagreeable emergencies which nearly every veteran traveler has at some time experienced.

      Every one who visits a strange land should strive to interest himself in its condition, resources, history and peculiarities. The invalid, beyond all others, should cultivate an interest in his surroundings. Nothing so well sustains a failing body as an active mind. For that purpose, local histories, maps, etc., should always be purchased. I have indicated, under the different cities, what works there are of this kind in the market, and, in the introductory remarks on Florida, have mentioned several of a more general character, which should be purchased and read before going there. (For further hints see the last chapter of this work.)

      PART I.

      SOUTHERN ROUTES

      1. STEAMSHIP LINES

      In visiting the South Atlantic States the tourist from the North has a choice of a number of routes.

      Steamers leave New York for Charleston, Savannah, Fernandina, and Key West, advertisements of which, giving days of sailing can be seen in the principal daily papers. Philadelphia has regular steamship lines to Charleston, Savannah, and Key West. From Charleston and Savannah boats run every other day to Fernandina, Jacksonville, and Palatka on the St. John river. The whole or a portion of a journey to Florida can be accomplished by water, and the steamships are decidedly preferable to the cars for those who do not suffer much from sea sickness.

      The most direct route by railroad is the “Atlantic Coast Line,” by way of Washington, Acquia Creek, Richmond, Petersburg, Weldon, Wilmington, and Charleston. From Philadelphia to Wilmington the time is 28 hours, fare $21.90; to Charleston 40 hours, fare $24.00; to Savannah, fare $33.00; to Jacksonville, fare $38.65. Through tickets and full information can be obtained in New York at 193 Broadway; Philadelphia 828 Chestnut Street.

      It is proposed to establish a direct line of steamers from New York to Jacksonville.