JAMES’S SHEPHERD’S PIE

      Who says British food isn’t great? I keep saying to people and young chefs that the best way to move forward in terms of cooking is often to look back. Shepherd’s Pie with garden peas is a dinner my mother used to cook all the time and still does. Look out for minced lamb that isn’t fatty as this will make it much better. And don’t put too much liquid in the mash or it will be too soft and the potatoes will just sink into the meat mixture.

      SERVES 4

      1–2 tbsp olive oil

      1.5kg (3lb 4oz) boneless shoulder of lamb

      300g (11oz) baby onions, blanched and peeled (see method on page 20)

      2 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped

      4 sprigs of rosemary

      500ml (18fl oz) red wine

      500ml (18fl oz) beef stock

      75g (3oz) butter

      25g (1oz) plain flour

      Salt and black pepper

      FOR THE MASH TOPPING

      500g (1lb 2oz) large floury potatoes, such as King Edward, peeled and cut into quarters

      50g (2oz) butter

      100ml (3½fl oz) whole milk

      1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas 6. Heat the olive oil in a large casserole dish, season the lamb with salt and pepper on both sides, then seal the meat all over on a high heat for 1–2 minutes or until nicely browned.

      2. Remove the lamb from the pot and add the baby onions, frying these for 2–3 minutes or until golden, then add the garlic and 3 sprigs of rosemary.

      3. Place the lamb back in the pot on top of the onions and rosemary, then pour in the wine and stock. Smear a third of the butter over the lamb and place the remaining rosemary sprig on top. Roast in the oven, uncovered, for 2 hours or until tender and crispy on top.

      4. Meanwhile, make the mashed potato for the topping following the instructions for Creamy Potato Mash on page 179.

      5. When the lamb is cooked, remove from the pot and strain the juices into a small saucepan set over a medium heat, keeping the onions for later. Mix the flour and remaining butter together to form a paste, then break into pieces and add to the juices in the pan, whisking until you have a thick gravy. Tear the meat into large chunks and place in the ovenproof dish. Add the reserved onions and pour over the thickened juices.

      6. Put the mashed potato into a piping bag and pipe or spoon it over the meat and spread evenly with a fork. Bake in the oven for 25 minutes or until the top is golden brown. Serve with purple sprouting broccoli and Vichy Carrots.

CHICKEN AND WILD MUSHROOM PIE

      You can make this chicken pie either with brown or white meat or a combination of both. The same goes for the mushrooms – use either fresh or dried or whatever you can get hold of. Porcini, ceps and morels are the classics to put with chicken, or for something different you could replace them with water chestnuts. Fresh tarragon is much better than dried for this recipe, but do remember that it’s a strongly flavoured herb, so don’t add too much.

      SERVES 6–8

      375g (13oz) ready-rolled all-butter puff pastry

      1 egg, beaten

      FOR THE FILLING

      1 x 1.5kg (31b 4oz) chicken

      2 onions, peeled and finely chopped

      1 bay leaf

      1 tbsp olive oil

      75g (3oz) butter

      2 tbsp plain flour

      350g (12oz) wild mushrooms (such as chanterelle, cep, trompette, girolle or oyster)

      150ml (5fl oz) white wine

      150ml (5fl oz) double cream

      4 sprigs of tarragon, leaves only

      Salt and black pepper

      ONE 20 X 30CM (8 X 12IN) PIE DISH OR OVENPROOF DISH

      1. Place the chicken in a large saucepan with half the onions and the bay leaf. Season with a little salt and pepper and cover with water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 45 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through.

      2. Remove the chicken from the pan and set aside to cool. Return the pan to the hob and cook the stock on a rapid boil for a further 30 minutes or until it has reduced by half. Meanwhile, remove the meat from the chicken legs, thighs and carcass, then place in the pie dish.

      3. Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), Gas 7. Heat the olive oil and butter in a large frying pan, add the remaining onions and cook over a low–medium heat, without browning, for about 5 minutes or until softened, then add the flour. Turn up the heat then add the mushrooms and cook for a further 3–4 minutes.

      4. Strain the stock, then add to the mushrooms and cook for 1 minute. Pour in the wine and cream, then bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Season, then pour it over the chicken and sprinkle tarragon leaves over the top.

      5. Cut out a disc of pastry 2cm (¾ in) wider all round than the pie dish. Brush the edges of the dish with beaten egg and lay the pastry on top, crimping the edges with a fork or your fingertips. Trim away any excess pastry and brush the top of the pie with the remaining egg. Place on a baking tray and bake for 30–35 minutes or until the pastry is crisp and golden. Then remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly before serving with new potatoes and French beans.

BEEF SHIN AND CARROT PIES

      This pie is best made with Hereford beef, a breed that originated in the UK but is now farmed everywhere from Russia to South America. The cows have a deep red coat and fantastic horns, and their meat is highly prized. We use Hereford beef in the restaurant for our steaks, as the meat has an excellent grain. If you can’t find it, any breed will do, as it’s the long slow cooking that really gives this pie its flavour – the longer you cook it for, the better it will taste. I suggest serving the pie with French beans or shallots.

      SERVES 4

      800g (1¾lb) trimmed beef shin or flank, cut into 3cm (1¼ in) dice

      2 tbsp plain flour

      4–5 tbsp olive oil

      30g (1¼oz) butter

      1 onion, peeled and finely chopped

      1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed

      1 tbsp tomato purée

      200ml (7fl oz) Guinness

      500ml (18fl oz) beef stock

      1 tsp chopped thyme leaves

      1 bay leaf 300g (11oz) small Chantenay carrots, trimmed and kept whole

      Salt and black pepper