Henley's Twentieth Century Formulas, Recipes and Processes. Various
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VI.—Equal quantities of gutta percha and shellac are melted together and well stirred. This is best done in an iron capsule placed on a sandbath and heated over a gas furnace or on the top of a stove. The combination possesses both hardness and toughness, qualities that make it particularly desirable in mending mortars and pestles. In using, the articles to be cemented should be warmed to about the melting point of the mixture and retained in proper position until cool, when they are ready for use.
| VII.— | Rosin | 600 parts by weight |
|---|---|---|
| Sulphur | 150 parts by weight | |
| Iron filings | 250 parts by weight |
Pour the mixture, hot, into the opening of the heated handle and shove in the knife likewise heated.
VIII.—Melt sufficient black rosin, and incorporate thoroughly with it one-fifth its weight of very fine silver sand. Make the pestle hot, pour in a little of the mixture, then force the handle well home, and set aside for a day before using.
IX.—Make a smooth, moderately soft paste with litharge and glycerine; fill the hole in the pestle with the cement, and firmly press the handle in place, keeping it under pressure for three or four days.
Cements For Stone.
—I.—An excellent cement for broken marble consists of 4 parts of gypsum and 1 part of finely powdered gum arabic. Mix intimately. Then with a cold solution of borax make into a mortarlike mass. Smear on each face of the parts to be joined, and fasten the bits of marble together. In the course of a few days the cement becomes very hard and holds very tenaciously. The object mended should not be touched for several days. In mending colored marbles the cement may be given the hue of the marble by adding the color to the borax solution.
II.—A cement which dries instantaneously, qualifying it for all sorts of repairing and only presenting the disadvantage of having to be freshly prepared each time, notwithstanding any subsequent heating, may be made as follows: In a metal vessel or iron spoon melt 4 to 5 parts of rosin (or preferably mastic) and 1 part of beeswax. This mixture must be applied rapidly, it being of advantage slightly to heat the surfaces to be united, which naturally must have been previously well cleaned.
III.—Slaked lime, 10 parts; chalk, 15 parts; kaolin, 5 parts; mix, and immediately before use stir with a corresponding amount of potash water glass.
IV.—Cement on Marble Slabs.—The whole marble slab is thoroughly warmed and laid face down upon a neatly cleaned planing bench upon which a woolen cloth is spread so as not to injure the polish of the slab. Next apply to the slab very hot, weak glue and quickly sift hot plaster of Paris on the glue in a thin even layer, stirring the plaster rapidly into the applied glue by means of a strong spatula, so that a uniform glue-plaster coating is formed on the warm slab. Before this has time to harden tip the respective piece of furniture on the slab. The frame, likewise warmed, will adhere very firmly to the slab after two days. Besides, this process has the advantage of great cleanliness. {17}
V.—The following is a recipe used by marble workers, and which probably can be used to advantage: Flour of sulphur, 1 part; hydrochlorate of ammonia, 2 parts; iron filings, 16 parts. The above substances must be reduced to a powder, and securely preserved in closely stoppered vessels. When the cement is to be employed, take 20 parts very fine iron filings and 1 part of the above powder; mix them together with enough water to form a manageable paste. This paste solidifies in 20 days and becomes as hard as iron. A recipe for another cement useful for joining small pieces of marble or alabaster is as follows: Add 1/2 pint of vinegar to 1/2 pint skimmed milk; mix the curd with the whites of 5 eggs, well beaten, and sufficient powdered quicklime sifted in with constant stirring so as to form a paste. It resists water and a moderate degree of heat.
VI.—Cement for Iron and Marble.—For fastening iron to marble or stone a good cement is made as follows: Thirty parts plaster of Paris, 10 parts iron filings, 1/2 part sal ammoniac mixed with vinegar to a fluid paste fresh for use.
Cement For Sandstones.
—One part sulphur and 1 part rosin are melted separately; the melted masses are mixed and 3 parts litharge and 2 parts ground glass stirred in. The latter ingredients must be perfectly dry, and have been well pulverized and mixed previously.
Equally good cement is obtained by melting together 1 part pitch and 1/10 part wax, and mixing with 2 parts brickdust.
The stones to be cemented, or between the joints of which the putty is to be poured, must be perfectly dry. If practicable, they should be warmed a little, and the surfaces to which the putty is to adhere painted with oil varnish once or twice. The above two formulæ are of especial value in case the stones are very much exposed to the heat of the sun in summer, as well as to cold, rain, and snow in winter. Experience has shown that in these instances the above-mentioned cements give better satisfaction than the other brands of cement.
Cements for Attaching Objects to Glass.—
| Rosin | 1 part |
| Yellow wax | 2 parts |
Melt together.
To Attach Copper To Glass.
—Boil 1 part of caustic soda and 3 parts of colophony in 5 parts of water and mix with the like quantity of plaster of Paris. This cement is not attacked by water, heat, and petroleum. If, in place of the plaster of Paris, zinc white, white lead, or slaked lime is used, the cement hardens more slowly.
To Fasten Brass Upon Glass.
—Boil together 1 part of caustic soda, 3 parts of rosin, 3 parts of gypsum, and 5 parts of water. The cement made in this way hardens in about half an hour, hence it must be applied quickly. During the preparation it should be stirred constantly. All the ingredients used must be in a finely powdered state.
Uniting Glass With Horn.
—(1) A solution of 2 parts of gelatin in 20 parts water is evaporated up to one-sixth of its volume and 1/3 mastic dissolved in 1/2 spirit added and some zinc white stirred in. The putty is applied warm; it dries easily and can be kept a long time. (2) Mix gold size with the equal volume of water glass.
To Cement Glass To Iron.—
| I.— | Rosin | 5 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Yellow wax | 1 ounce | |
| Venetian red | 1 ounce |
Melt the wax and rosin on a water bath and add, under constant stirring, the Venetian red previously well dried. Stir until nearly cool, so as to prevent the Venetian red from settling to the bottom.
| II.— | Portland cement | 2 ounces |
|---|---|---|
| Prepared chalk | 1 ounce | |
| Fine sand | 1 ounce | |
| Solution of sodium silicate enough to form a semi-liquid paste. | ||
| III.— | Litharge | 2 parts |
| White lead | 1 part | |
Work into a pasty condition by using 3 parts boiled linseed oil, 1 part copal varnish.
Celluloid Cements.
—I.—To mend broken draughting triangles and other celluloid articles, use 3 parts alcohol and 4 parts ether mixed together and applied to the fracture with a brush until the edges become warm. The edges are then stuck together, and left to dry for at least 24 hours.
II.—Camphor, 1 part; alcohol, 4 parts. Dissolve and add equal quantity (by weight) of shellac to this solution.
III.—If firmness is desired in putting celluloid on wood, tin, etc., the following gluing agent is recommended, viz.: A compound of