The Hiking and Camping Guide to Colorado's Flat Tops Wilderness. Al Marlowe
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to the trailheads tell how to get there from the primary county or state road used as the heading for each section. Road designations vary depending on the source. All road numbers in this guide are from the 1991 White River National Forest map, the most recent edition. Road designations used on current Trails Illustrated maps, both paper and digital, show the latest road numbers or names. All trailheads are marked with signs. At wilderness boundaries, visitors are requested to sign the registers.
One point to keep in mind is that trails change over time. The Forest Service constructs new ones and abandons others. For this reason, always use the latest edition of any map.
The wilderness has a wide variety of trails, with distances varying from less than one-half mile to more than 25 miles. Difficulty varies with terrain but only a few have long, steep ascents. Trail 1825, the Oyster Lake Trail, begins about a mile south of Buford, and climbs more than 4,000 feet in the first 6 miles. From there to its junction with the Wall Lake Trail 1818, the hike is nearly level.
Another long trail also beginning south of Buford is the South Fork Trail 1827. From the South Fork Campground 10 miles south of Buford, it follows the South Fork of the White River to its headwaters. From the trailhead to the next point accessed by Forest Road 600, the trail climbs only a few hundred feet in 13 miles. For its entire length the trail follows a deep canyon, broad in some places, with a few short steep sections. For most of the way it’s an easy hike. Until, that is, you pass the Doe Creek Trail. From there it isn’t maintained so expect to find a few obstacles to get around.
Backpackers in search of other long hikes can do so by combining a few connecting trails. A person can begin near Sweetwater Lake on the south and go from there to Ripple Creek Pass on the north side by taking several connecting trails. Study wilderness maps to select a combination of trails to give a hike of a desired distance and destination.
For the person more interested in fishing rather than hiking more than a few miles, take the short hike from Forest Road 205 (the road to Trappers Lake) to Lake of the Woods. It’s less than a half mile to some good brookie fishing. From Forest Road 900 west of Yampa a mile hike leads to Smith Lake. Stream fishermen will want to take Forest Road 600 to the Meadows to cast a fly in the South Fork. From the parking area it’s only a couple hundred yards to the river. From there, fish up- or downstream. Anglers will find many other short hikes in this guide.
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RIO BLANCO COUNTY ROAD 8
Trail descriptions begin at the town of Meeker, west of the wilderness, in Rio Blanco County. One mile north from town heading toward Craig on State Highway 13, go east on Rio Blanco County Road 8. This paved road follows the White River through ranch country and is the primary access to the north side of the wilderness. The Forest Service has designated the road between Meeker and Yampa as a Scenic Byway. Readers are advised to refer to maps in this guide or preferably the NGS Trails Illustrated maps while reading the trail descriptions.
From Meeker, head east 18 miles on County Road 8 to Buford just past County Road 17. Go south on County Road 17 a mile to County Road 10 to access the longest trail in the wilderness, the Oyster Lake Trail 1825. Turn east on County Road 10, which will lead south 9 miles to end at the South Fork Campground. Here backpackers and anglers can hike Trail 1827 along the South Fork of the White River. Between these two trails hikers can take four shorter trails that lead to the Flat Tops plateau.
Buford is an old community established more than a century ago. All that’s left is the Buford Lodge, which is now permanently closed. East of Buford, Rio Blanco County Road 8 follows the North Fork of the White River upstream, to the east. It’s 6 miles past Buford to County Road 12, which gives access to trails in the Marvine Creek area. Near the west end of County Road 8 and 12 are two trailheads, Papoose Creek Trail 2248 and Ute Creek Trail 1824. Both trails connect with Trail 1825 on the plateau. County Road 12 heads east along the south side of the North Fork 2 miles to an unnamed road that crosses the river to reconnect with County Road 8 by some now-closed businesses.
A mile east on County Road 12, Trail 1820 heads east along Big Ridge to Sable Lake. Or you can continue south on County Road 12 to trails that follow Marvine Creek: Trail 1823 to both Marvine Lakes, and Trail 1822 up the East Fork of Marvine Creek. Both connect to Trail 1825 after ascending to the plateau.
Continuing east 2 miles on County Road 8 from the junction of County Road 12 you come to the Lost Creek Guard Station and the end of the blacktop. Even though the road from here to the Routt County line is gravel, it’s good, with a few washboard areas.
East 2 miles from Lost Creek Guard Station, the North Fork Campground is on the north, a good place to camp that’s usually quiet. Another 6 miles takes you to Forest Road 205, the access to Trappers Lake.
County Road 8 continues east, climbing toward Ripple Creek Pass after passing Forest Road 205. A mile past the Trappers Lake Road the Picket Pin Trail 1811 makes a loop up to the plateau, and then down to the Trappers Lake Road.
Five miles past the Trappers Lake Road gets you to the Ripple Creek Overlook on the south. From this point, you have a broad view of the Flat Tops Wilderness. It’s another mile to the 10,343-foot summit of the pass.
South Fork of the White River Rio Blanco County Roads 17 and 10
Two and one-quarter miles east of the Lake Avery Dam, turn south off County Road 8 onto County Road 17. This rough road eventually joins Interstate 70 at New Castle about 39 miles south.
Turn left at the ranch buildings 1 mile south on County Road 17, which takes you to County Road 10. Turn east on County Road 10 and follow the South Fork of the White River, which meanders through the broad plain of glacially deposited sediments. Deer and elk will often be seen browsing in the hay meadows along the willow-lined stream. The South Fork Campground is at the end of County Road 10 about 11 miles from County Road 8.
OYSTER LAKE TRAIL 1825
UTM 13 027632E, 4427241NLat/Lon 39° 58’ 43.55” N, 107° 37’ 6.10” W
Description This is the longest trail on the Flat Tops. It connects with several others on the plateau, creating the possibility of many side trips. You could also exit the wilderness by any of these trails shown on USFS, NGS, and maps in this guide.
From the trailhead south of Buford, the route climbs quickly. Most of the 4,000-foot ascent occurs in the first 6 miles. Once you’re on the plateau, the hike is much easier, at times nearly level. This is a good hike to experience the extensive size of the wilderness.
Destination Bailey Lake, Trails 1826, 2248, 2255, 2256, 1824, 1830, 1823 and 2259, 1822, 1819, 1818 on the Flat Tops plateau.
Distance 4.5 miles to Bailey Lake and Trail 1826, 6.5 to Trail 2248, 11.5 miles to Trail 2255, 12 miles to Trail 2256, 16 miles to Trail 1824, 19.5 miles to Trail 1830, 22.5 miles to Trails 1823 and 2259, 24 miles to Trail 1822, 26 miles to Trail 1819, 27 miles to Trail 1818.
Elevation 7,000 at trailhead, 11,300 a mile west of Lost Solar Park, 11,003 at Trail 1818
Directions to trailhead From Buford, drive 0.6 mile south on County Road 17. Park at the marked trailhead on west side of the road. Space is limited and your vehicle is exposed.
Maps Flat Tops NW, Flat Tops NE
The trail starts climbing as soon as you leave the county road and from there it’s all uphill to Bailey Lake. In the 4 miles to the lake, the trail rises 1,800 feet. In the first couple of miles, you cross private land, so stay on the trail to avoid trespassing.
The first 2 or 3 miles take you through open ground and scattered stands of scrub brush. The trail crosses five intermittent creeks, that is, they’re usually dry except during the spring thaw. You’ll have about a mile of timber to walk through before breaking into a narrow opening for the last half mile to Trail 1826, which takes you beside Bailey Lake.
At the junction of 1826, Trail 1825 goes off to the east. A quarter-mile walk farther on Trail 1825 takes you to