Handy Pocket Guide to Tropical Fruits. Wendy Hutton
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Kedongdong
Filipino name: Hevi
This fruit is native to Southeast Asia, and is widely found in some Pacific Island countries (the name Otaheiti is the old name for Tahiti). It might be mistaken for a green-skinned mango, as it has the elongated shape of that fruit, as well as a similar resinous smell and smooth skin. It measures from 5 to 9 cm (approximately 3 ½ inches) and is sometimes called the ambarella.
Inside the Otaheiti apple there is a star-shaped central core with five small, pale green seeds; this is noticeable if the fruit is cut in horizontal slices.
The oval fruit has a relatively thick rind and the flesh inside is hard and crisp, with a tangy taste when still unripe. When ripe, however, the flavour can be quite good and tastes something like a mango-flavoured apple. Some varieties, however, are not sufficiently sweet to make good desserts, and for this reason the Otaheiti apple is often used in tangy sour salads, especially in Thailand and Indonesia.
Mango
Mangifera spp.
Botanical Family: Anacardiaceae
Thai name: Ma-muang
Malay name: Mangga
Indonesian name: Mangga
Filipino name: Mangang kalabau, mangga
There are dozens of varieties of mango family, varying in fragrance and flavour from sublime to unpleasant. Each country has developed its own varieties and a mango lover is hard-pressed to choose, say, between the very long, almost white-fleshed flower mango of Thailand, the small orange-fleshed Philippines mango dripping with sweet juice and the stronger-smelling and slightly sharp arumanis mango of Indonesia.
All these fruits are hybrids, as most of the varieties native to the region have somewhat stringy flesh with a sour, almost turpentine, flavour. These mangoes are generally made into a pickle or preserve.
The sap found in the leaves, stem and fruits of all types of mango is irritant and can cause a rash to those allergic to it; the Malaysian kuini is a particular culprit. Various parts of the mango—leaves, skin of the fruit, bark, seeds and resin—are used to treat many ailments, including diarrhoea and excessive bleeding.
Mangoes can be divided into two broad categories: those that are eaten green (unripe) and dessert mangoes enjoyed for their sweetness. Unripe mangoes are the perfect answer to the Asian love of sharp sour flavours. These fruit are peeled and eaten in salads or with savoury or chilli-hot dips; unripe mangoes are also cooked to make various pickles and chutney.
Dessert mangoes vary in size, skin colour and shape, some being fat, green-skinned and almost round, others being pale golden and slender, still others having a reddish tinge. All fruits have a large elongated seed inside and a non-edible skin.
Mango slices served with sweet sticky rice mixed with coconut cream are regarded as the ultimate dessert in Thailand and the Philippines. Their colour, texture and flavour combine well with milk products: mangoes make good ice-creams, yoghurts and souffles, but as they are so good fresh from the tree this is like gilding the lily.
Custard Apple
Annona squamosa
Botanical Family: Annonaceae
Thai name: Noi-na
Malay name: Nona sri kaya
Indonesian name: Srikaya
Tagalog name: Atis
Around nine varieties of this fruit, native to tropical America and introduced to tropical Asia several centuries ago, are cultivated around the world. Close relatives include the cherimoya (A. cherimola) and sugar apple (A. reticulata). The most commonly found Asian variety is quite small (about 8 cm or 3 inches in diameter). All fruits share the same distinctive appearance, with the skin composed of overlapping fleshy green "petals".
The interior has a very white sweet flesh, delicately flavoured with a hint of acidity, like its larger cousin, the soursop (A. muricata) (see page 13). The custard apple is full of small segments of flesh containing shiny black seeds.
It is important to eat the fruit at exactly the correct stage of ripeness. It should still be slightly firm, yielding to gentle pressure with the palms. Avoid any fruits which feel soft as they will be over-ripe and therefore somewhat floury in texture. Because of its juiciness, the custard apple is ideal for drinks or desserts such as sorbets.
Soursop
Annona muricata
Botanical Family: Annonaceae
Thai name: Thu-rian-khaek
Malay name: Durian belanda
Indonesian name: Sirsak
Filipino name: Guayabano
Although wedges of this tropical American native are sometimes served for eating with a spoon, most soursops in Southeast Asia are used to make juice or desserts such as mousse, ice-cream and jelly.
The slightly bumpy thin skin of this irregularly shaped fruit is green even when the fruit ripens. They are large, weighing in excess of 3 kg (7 lbs). Inside, the flesh is white and pulpy, full of shiny black seeds, with a central pithy core running its length. The soursop bruises easily when fully ripe, so buy it while still firm and wait until it yields slightly to gentle pressure. Then, eat it immediately.
The flavour of the soursop is somewhat acidic, but this is easily counteracted by adding sugar. It is refreshing, with a faint fragrance and an elusive but irresistible flavour. Soursop derives its name from the Dutch zuur zak or sour sack. Sop is an English word meaning something which soaks up liquid; as the flesh of the soursop is certainly saturated with juice, the name is not inappropriate.
Durian
Durio zibethinus
Botanical Family: Bombacaceae
Thai name: Thurian
Malay name: Durian
Indonesian name: Durian
Filipino name: Durian
The durian, Southeast Asia's most highly prized fruit, is also its most controversial because of the overpowering odour. It is the only fruit banned from airline cabins, hotels and some public transport.
Native to Southeast Asia, the fruit of the very tall