Walking on Lanzarote and Fuerteventura. Paddy Dillon
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SOUTH LANZAROTE
The Ruta de Termesana in the Parque Nacional de Timanfaya is only available to pre-booked walkers
Most visitors stay in the southern half of Lanzarote, between Arrecife and Playa Blanca. Large areas of this region are protected, including the striking arid mountains of the Monumento Natural Los Ajaches.
The inter-linked Walks 1 to 4 explore the area, including parts of the coastline between Puerto Calero and Playa Blanca. More of the coast is explored on Walks 5 and 6, from Playa Blanca to Tinajo. Access to the Parque Nacional de Timanfaya is restricted, and the popular, short, guided Ruta de Termesana has to be booked through the national park visitor centre. (See www.reservasparquesnacionales.es, and choose ‘Timanfaya’.)
Walk 7 runs from village to village through the Paisaje Protegido de La Geria, which is a notable wine-growing region covered in black volcanic ash. Walk 8 offers further access to the area, but also visits the Monumento Natural Cueva de los Naturalistas among awesome lava flows. Walk 9 wanders through the interesting Parque Natural de los Volcanes, where old volcanic cones stand as islands in extensive, rugged lava flows dating only from the 1730s. Note that it is easy to visit neighbouring Fuerteventura by ferry from Playa Blanca.
WALK 1
Femés and Barranco de la Casita
Start/Finish | Roundabout, Femés |
Distance | 8km (5 miles) |
Total Ascent/Descent | 430m (1410ft) |
Time | 2hrs 30min |
Terrain | Mostly clear paths, but often on steep, stony and rocky slopes. Some stretches are unsuitable for vertigo sufferers. |
Refreshment | Bar restaurants at Femés. |
Transport | Occasional buses serve Femés on weekdays from Arrecife, Playa Honda and Tías. |
This short, popular circular walk is also rough and stony, crossing steep, rocky slopes. Most walkers find it spectacular, but some might be unnerved by the exposure and steepness. The route cuts across rocky slopes, traversing barren barrancos where there are no signs of habitation, before returning to Femés.
Route uses PR LZ 09. The last bus stop at Femés is near a little supermercado. There is a nearby roundabout with a palm tree at its centre and this is where the walk starts, around 370m (1215ft). First, take a look around the village – especially the plaza, church and a mirador overlooking distant Playa Blanca and Fuerteventura. There are bar restaurants, as well as the cheese-making Quesería Rubicón. A signpost for the PR LZ 09 stands at the roundabout, pointing up a tarmac road that gives way to a track. Climb past a notice for the Monumento Natural Los Ajaches, with views of Femés and the Valle de Femés.
The village of Femés sits on a gap at the foot of Atalaya de Femés
A goat farm is reached on a stony gap at Loma Pico de la Aceituna, at 414m (1358ft). Two mapboards and two signposts stand to the right. The PR LZ 09 heads right, and is easy to spot as it has a black plastic water pipe alongside. The PR LZ 10-11 heads left, followed on Walk 2 and Walk 3. The path crosses the steep and rocky Pico de la Aceituna, and while it is technically easy to walk, you cannot afford to trip or stumble. The rock comes in pastel shades, exposed to the elements by serious over-grazing. The view down the Barranco de la Higuera extends along the coast to built-up resorts and distant Arrecife. Despite the steepness of the slope, the path runs gently down and up, squeezing past prickly pears at one point.
Rise and cross a stony gap at 441m (1447ft), then follow the path round the steep, rocky slopes of Pico Redondo. The water pipe still runs alongside, and views stretch towards Playa Blanca and Fuerteventura. There are more prickly pears but otherwise the mountainside is bare and over-grazed. When a fork is reached above Degollada del Portugués, keep left and follow the path uphill, crossing a broad and stony shoulder around 440m (1445ft). The path descending to the right is used on Walk 4. The views are lost as the path zigzags downhill. The ground is entirely stony, dotted with a few tabaibal. Walk along a crest to a tumbled drystone enclosure and a marker post. Turn left and zigzag down into the Barranco de la Casita, passing a few prickly pears and crossing the bed around 240m (790ft).
The path climbs quickly to a little shelter beside an old rainwater collector, where a left turn leads gently up to a broad gap covered in bright stones, where there are also old marker posts, at 285m (935ft). At this point, it is well worth turning right to follow a path, or a track running parallel, along a gentle, stony crest dotted with tabaibal. The summit of Morro de la Loma del Pozo is crowned with a cairn and prickly pears at 324m (1063ft). It is possible to continue along the crest, descending towards the coast, to link with coastal paths. Enjoy fine views of Los Ajaches, with Arrecife, Lobos and Fuerteventura in the distance. Double back to the broad gap of bright stones and be sure to follow a path, not a track, down into the Barranco de la Higuera. The path runs gradually down across a rugged slope, then rises towards a pylon where a right turn leads down to a three-way signpost at around 260m (855ft). Walk 2 is joined here.
Turn left and follow a path towards the rock-walled head of the barranco. Swing right; the path is crudely paved in places, gradually rising across a steep and rocky slope. Stones and boulders are scattered everywhere, but the way ahead is obvious, exploiting soft beds of rock and eventually returning to the goat farm at Loma Pico de la Aceituna. Simply walk down the access track and road to return to Femés.
WALK 2
Femés and Pico de las Flores
Start/Finish | Roundabout, Femés |
Distance | 10km (6¼ miles) |
Total Ascent/Descent | 420m (1380ft) |
Time | 3hrs |
Terrain | Mostly clear paths, initially stony and rocky underfoot, on steep, stony and rocky slopes, with a vague stretch later. |
Refreshment | Bar restaurants at Femés |
Transport | Occasional buses serve Femés on weekdays from Arrecife, Playa Honda and Tías. |
This short, circular walk takes in the Barranco de la Higuera and rugged little mountains alongside the Valle de Femés, between Las Casitas and Femés. Apart from a rugged descent soon after starting, most of the other paths are fairly easy and offer splendid views around the mountain range of Los Ajaches.
Route uses PR LZ 10, 11 and 12. The last bus stop at Femés is near a little supermercado. There is a nearby roundabout with a palm tree at its centre and this is where the walk starts, around 370m (1215ft). First, take a look around the village – especially the plaza, church and a mirador overlooking distant Playa Blanca and Fuerteventura. There are