The South West Coast Path. Paddy Dillon
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becoming grassy as it drops into a little valley where there is a stand of conifers. The lane makes its way round another little valley before reaching a road at 308m (1013ft). Follow the road downhill, passing below stout stone buildings at Broomstreet Farm.
A lane leaving the farm dwindles to a field path. Watch for a signpost beyond a gate, where the path drops steeply through a field, back into the woods. Cross a stream and look for marker posts to spot a narrow path and gates around the slopes of Sugarloaf Hill. After passing Guildhall Corner the path goes down steps into delightfully mixed woodlands on a steep slope. A junction is reached where the main route joins from the right.
The main route follows a path across a steep slope through Culbone Wood, with only occasional views of the sea. A few little streams are crossed and an old landslip is passed, using steps up and down. At junctions with other paths, the clearest path is signposted and any overgrown paths should be avoided. Most ascents and descents are gentle, on a slope ranging from 50 to 150m (165 to 490ft). Eventually, there is a steep climb to a track junction. The alternative route comes to here down a steep slope on Sugarloaf Hill.
Lynmouth is signposted through a barrier gate, and soon afterwards there is a view down a steep slope to a beach. Later, keep left at a waymarked junction, rising gently to a gap in a wall at a path junction. Head steeply down to the right, cross a stream, then turn left up a track signposted for the Coast Path. This is part of the County Gate Nature Trail, while below is the ‘Pinetum’, featuring a variety of pines, including tall Wellingtonias. The woodland track leads up to a junction where there is access left up to County Gate. (Exmoor Coastlink buses can be intercepted here.)
The Coast Path turns right, down from the junction into dense forest, crossing a stream at Coscombe that forms the county boundary between Somerset and Devon. Turn left as signposted up a track, then at another signpost, turn right down a path to find the Sisters Fountain marked by a stout stone cross in the woods. Local lore maintains that Joseph of Arimathea drank from this spring on his way to Glastonbury.
Follow a narrow path uphill, marked for Wingate Combe, and turn right along a track to pass between stone pillars bearing the heads of wild boars. Walk gently down past a house, then watch for a path rising left from a bend. This crosses a slope above Glenthorne, where rhododendrons have been cleared, although later they grow densely.
The path crosses two streams in Wingate Combe, then continues across a wooded slope, emerging suddenly with fine views of cliffs and wooded slopes. The path climbs past bracken and gorse, later entering more woodland. A gully on the steep slope rejoices in the name of Pudleep Gurt!
Cross a little stream at Swannel Combe, followed by another gully at Chubhill Combe, then land on a track at a stream, gate and stile. Walk up and down the track to a bend on a narrow road, then walk down the road into Coddow Combe. The road serves a lighthouse on Foreland Point – Devon’s most northerly point – but is followed only to a bridge spanning a stream. Gorse, heather, bracken, bilberry and bare scree feature on the surrounding slopes.
A walker passes high above Foreland Point on the way towards Countisbury
A path up to the left is signposted as the Coast Path, with over 40 steps on one steep stretch. The path rises across a slope to reach a grassy gap. Turn left to continue climbing, then turn right to walk across the steep slopes of Countisbury Common. The Coast Path veers right before reaching the church of St John the Evangelist. Walk through the churchyard to reach the Blue Ball Inn and bus services at Countisbury.
The cliff path runs downhill, parallel to the main road, and later joins the road for a short stretch. When the road reaches a sign for the Countisbury Lodge, a path drops to the right using steps. Zigzag down through a beech wood with rampant ground cover, landing on a road near a beach. Walk through a pleasant park to reach a white footbridge spanning the river at Lynmouth. The Bath Hotel is on the other side, while a right turn leads to the little harbour.
LYNMOUTH AND LYNTON
Lynmouth nestles at the mouth of the River Lyn, while Lynton occupies the slopes high above, but buildings are stacked all the way up the wooded slopes. A cliff railway connects the villages, so there is no need to struggle on steep streets and paths. Lynmouth was wrecked by a devastating flood in August 1952, killing 34 people, and there is an exhibition in the Lynmouth Flood Memorial Centre. A sign at the Glen Lyn Gorge says it all: ‘Opened 1854 Devastated 1952 Reopened 1962’. The ‘Power of Water’ exhibition is located here. The Exmoor National Park Visitor Centre, between the harbour and cliff railway, is worth a visit. Note, after walking all the way from Porlock to Lynmouth, that in January 1899 the Lynmouth lifeboat couldn’t be launched due to heavy seas, and was towed by men and horses over Porlock Hill to be launched at Porlock, to assist the Forrest Hall off Hurlstone Point.
Facilities at Lynmouth and Lynton include plenty of accommodation, including a youth hostel and campsite, bank with ATM, post office, shops, toilets, pubs and restaurants. Transport links include Exmoor Coastlink buses back to Porlock and Minehead, as well as ahead to Combe Martin and Ilfracombe. Tourist information centre: Town Hall, Lee Road, Lynton, Devon EX35 6BT, tel 01598 752225, www.visitlyntonandlynmouth.comk, [email protected]. The Exmoor National Park Visitor Centre is at The Pavilion on the Esplanade, tel 01598 752509.
STAGE 3
Lynmouth to Combe Martin
| Start | Flood Memorial Hall, Lynmouth (SS 722 495) |
| Finish | Royal Marine, Combe Martin (SS 576 472) |
| Distance | 21.5km (13½ miles) |
| Ascent | 1330m (4365ft) |
| Time | 6hrs 30mins |
| Terrain | An initial steep climb is followed by an easy walk through the Valley of Rocks to Lee Bay. Good cliff paths, rugged in places, give way to a couple of deep valleys and moorland walking. An ascent of Great Hangman comes before a descent to Combe Martin. |
| Maps | OS Landranger 180, OS Explorer OL9, Cicerone Vol 1, Harvey 1 |
| Refreshments | Tea Cottage at Lee Bay. Pub off-route at Heddon’s Mouth. Plenty of choice at Combe Martin. |
The Coast Path climbs from Lynmouth and heads for the popular Valley of Rocks. A road is followed down past Lee Abbey, then a cliff path encircles Crock Point. After traversing the wooded slopes of Woody Bay, the path crosses steep slopes and a deep, steep-sided valley at Heddon’s Mouth. Although it returns to the cliffs, the Coast Path drifts inland across the slopes of Holdstone Down and climbs to the summit of Great Hangman – the highest point on the South West Coast Path. Most walkers will be happy to finish at Combe Martin, although strong walkers could continue to Ilfracombe.
Leave the harbour at Lynmouth and look for a gap between the Exmoor National Park Visitor Centre and the Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway. Turn left up the Westerway, which was once used by packhorses. A flight of concrete steps gives way to a steep zigzag tarmac path, which crosses the Cliff Railway twice.
A narrow road runs past the North Cliff Hotel and crosses the line again (if tempted