Thailand Tuttle Travel Pack. Jim Algie
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Lopburi Monkey Temples
18 A Thai Village Homestay
19 Ko Samui’s Wellness Retreats
20 Dining at Soi 38, Sukhumvit
21 Sunset at Promthep Cape
Making the Most of Your Visit
On the road, few things are more exasperating than racing around trying to fill a pie-in-the-sky itinerary only to be gridlocked at every stop. This woe can be exacerbated in Bangkok’s traffic, in Chiang Mai with its notorious lack of public transport, and on Phuket where the so-called “tuk-tuk mafia” charge extortionate rates for short hops.
First of all, you’ll need to decide on your mode of transport. Budget carriers now link most of the major destinations. Trains are cheap and buses plentiful, but both are slow.
Once you’ve arrived, cars and motorcycles are reasonably cheap to rent. The latter are considerably more dangerous and out of bounds in Bangkok, where the skytrain and subway have given a double bypass to some of the most traffic-clogged arteries. In the ancient cities of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai, renting a bicycle is the way to go, whereas in smaller hamlets like Lopburi, your feet are the perfect means of transport.
It’s also best to balance out a sightseeing day with a variety of attractions so that you’re not trudging through temple after temple or museum after museum.
Of elementary importance when drafting any itinerary is considering the seasons. During the sweltering season, for instance, from February through April, when the mercury can soar to the upper 30s on the Celsius scale, try to factor in some “air-con time” in malls and restaurants. The rainy season is often quite sunny, except for September (the wettest month of the year), but trekking or bird watching in national parks at this time of year can suck because of all the leeches. Conversely, the cool season from November through January is a great time for hiking and mountain biking, though be warned it can get down to zero Celsius at night in the mountain-studded north country. During the monsoon season, from May through October, there is no ferry service to the Similans National Marine Park, and it may be sporadic to some of the more remote islands like Ko Lipe.
Also remember to factor in some cultural peculiarities like opening hours. Because of some arcane law, the majority of national museums, and other such government repositories, are closed on Monday and Tuesday. Buddhist holidays can also put a spanner in the works of any journey, and the country’s major festivals, such as the Thai New Near in mid-April, need to be taken into account. During the spectacularly grisly Vegetarian Festival on Phuket, for example, expect that rooms in the city of Phuket will be booked solid for months in advance.
The easiest way to come up with an itinerary is by breaking the country down into its four regions. After exploring Bangkok, discover the central region, with stopovers in Ayutthaya, Lopburi (both easily accessed by frequent and inexpensive trains) and Khao Yai National Park. If heading north, look at the big destinations, like Chiang Mai, Sukhothai, Pai and Chiang Rai, linked by low-cost flights. In the Gulf of Thailand, draft a travel plan that encompasses the major gateways and destinations, like Ko Samui, the Angthong National Marine Park, the scuba diving capital of Ko Tao and the hedonist’s haven of Ko Phangan, home to the Full Moon Party. Once you’ve got the gateways sorted for transport, and a sketch of the bigger sights, it’s much easier to connect the dots and home in on the smaller places and the roads less traveled.
1 The Grand Palace, Bangkok
Regal grandeur from the 18th century
The Grand Palace, with its majestic pagodas, giant-sized guardians, colorful murals and exquisitely wrought sculptures, was a bold attempt to equal the glories of the palace in the former royal capital of Ayutthaya. Extending over almost a million square meters and fortified by walls built in 1783, the palace, which adjoins the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, is Thailand’s number one tourist attraction. The presence of tourists, however, has done little to diminish its grandeur, and many Thais still come to pay their respects and seek blessings, giving a dose of reality to this regally Buddhist fantasia, even if there are no monks quartered here.
After you buy your ticket and enter the complex, you see a seated hermit-cum-physician made out of bronze. King Rama III had this statue cast when he was restoring his residence and adding touches like flowerpots, stone seats and Chinese sculptures. Much of this restoration work was carried out in 1831 for Bangkok’s 50th anniversary celebrations in 1832.
Walk past the two yaksha (gigantic demons with the tusks of wild boars) installed during the reign of King Rama II, and go up the stairs to the great gilt chedi, which is the tallest structure in the whole complex. This reliquary houses a piece of the Buddha’s breastbone. The complex is renowned for containing the country’s holiest of holies, the Emerald Buddha, a surprisingly small image.
The 178 refurbished murals that summarize the plot of The Ramayana are equally famous. (The Indian saga that is the wellspring for traditional Khmer dances, Thai masked dramas and Indonesian shadow plays is to Southeast Asian art and literature what Homer’s The Iliad is to Western letters.)
At the entrance to the actual palace, two guardian demons stand sentry beside it. Like the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, this group of lavish buildings was constructed in 1782, and served as the official residence of the king until 1946. However, King Rama V was the last monarch to actually live here in the early 20th century.
Opening Times Daily 8.30 am–3.30 pm
Address Na Phra Lan Road, near Sanam Luang
Getting There Take the Chao Phraya River Express taxi to the Tha Chang Pier
Contact +66 (0)2 222 0094, +66 (0)2 222 6889
Admission Fee 400 baht
2 Phuket’s Mai Khao Bay
Tropical splendor on Thailand’s biggest island
Soaking up the sun and drinking in the tropical scenery of Mai Khao Bay on the northwest coast of Phuket is about as sublime as castaway dreams get. The island’s longest stretch of sand (11 kilometers) makes for the archetypal getaway. All by yourself, save for the birds and hermit crabs, induces a Robinson Crusoe sense of solitude that is meditative. Suddenly, office politics seem trivial and personal woes go on vacation.
The lack of people also appeals to the Giant Ridley sea turtle. From November to February every year, these giants (some weigh up to 850 kilos) use the beach to lay their eggs. Though turtle spotters like to watch them nesting at night, it’s best to steer clear and let nature run its course.
In recent years, the number of turtles has dipped. Local authorities have responded by monitoring the nesting procedures closely and moving the eggs to special hatcheries, where the young can be released later.
The two most northern beaches on Phuket, Mai Khao and Nai Yang, form the blessedly undeveloped Sirinath National Park. Beware that the tides here, especially during the monsoon season, can be treacherous and riptides run rife.
In the vicinity are a few other distractions like the Turtle Village shopping complex. Here, the accent is mostly on smaller shops for arts and curios, upscale beachwear and a Jim Thompson outlet for Thai silk products.
A few five-star resorts, namely the Anantara and the JW Marriott, have also laid claim to some prime real estate. On the grounds of the West Sands Resort, the Splash Jungle Water Park provides a dash of Disney with an aquatic atmosphere and enough pools, rides and water slides to keep the most hyperactive of kids satisfied.
Even these intrusions are minimal. In the vast expanse of Mai Khao, affording from-there-to-infinity views of the sea and horizon, life is reduced to its most primordial elements: sea, sky, earth and shy sea creatures.
Opening Times 24/7. During the monsoon season from May to November, swimming can be perilous
Address Northwest part of island
Getting There Take the main road Highway 402, then look for