Walking in Menorca. Paddy Dillon
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small woodlands and areas of rugged scrub. In places the underlying rock is exposed where vegetation struggles to cover it. Many areas are arid, but there are a few lagoons that attract a variety of birds.
By contrast, some fields are remarkably lush and green, ideal for grazing black and white Friesian dairy cows and native red cows. Some of the valleys, or barrancs, that slice deep into the landscape carry running water, but many are dry. Most of the countryside features houses and farms, some of them old, stone-built and ornate. Some areas are dotted with curious barracas, or circular stone-built cattle-sheds, with a stepped profile reminiscent of ziggurats.
The island appears almost flat in some places, but there are lots of little hills. The highest point is Monte Toro, which rises only to 362m (1188ft) and is crowned by a church. Overall, the landscape ranges from rugged and wild to gentle and agricultural. Walking routes tend to be easy in most places.
Occasionally, while walking past lush green pastures grazed by Friesian dairy herds, walkers may find the countryside surprisingly reminiscent of lowland England!
Trees and flowers
The Camí de Son Xoriguer, between Binisafullet and Llucmaçanes (Walk 5)
Menorca’s original forests have been harvested and cleared for timber and fuel throughout the ages. The only representatives of naturally regenerating woodland today are found on the steep slopes of the more remote valleys. Some parts of Menorca are densely forested, where tall holm oaks and pines are common. Many areas that were once enclosed and cultivated are reverting to woodland, with wild olive trees and lentisc bushes dominant. Wooded areas may also feature thorny scrub and ivy, broom and tall heather, and where light penetrates the woodland canopy there is an abundance of other plants.
Flowering plants vary enormously, ranging from dense, prickly ‘pin-cushion’ socarrells, which sprout tiny flowers, to cistus, rock-rose and capers, which produce extensive displays in spring and early summer. Aromatic rosemary and lavender are common, along with plants having herbal or medicinal uses, such as camomile. On barren rock, plants are often inconspicuous, cowering in cracks to exploit shade and moisture. Amaryllis and asphodels thrive in rocky, barren places.
Clockwise from left: Asphodels grow profusely in old abandoned fields all over Menorca; rock-roses often grow among pines; juniper berries are used to flavour Menorcan gin, but not the ones growing on the island.
In wetland areas and meadows plants compete vigorously, while saltmarsh species cope with high salt levels. Some open hillsides, and also sunny spots inside woods and forests, may be covered with tall pampas-like grass, best referred to by its Menorquí name of càrritx. Spring is the best time to see flowering plants at their best. In high summer the landscape looks parched, and only in late autumn or winter does it turn green once again, ready for the next display of springtime colours.
Walkers passing shallow seas often spot what appear to be grassy meadows underwater. The ‘grass’ is actually Posidonia oceanica – a remarkably important species because it provides food and shelter for a wealth of marine life. However, when rough seas cause masses of posidonia to pile up onto the beaches, it smells awful as it rots. Strange spherical objects that look like coconuts may often be washed ashore, and these are also parts of this plant.
A guide to Mediterranean flowers will help to identify species around Menorca. Well over five per cent of flowering plants are endemic to Menorca, but more than ten per cent of flowering plants have been introduced to the island. The majority of species are Mediterranean stock, common to many other locations.
Birds
The premier bird-watching area on Menorca is the Parc Natural de s’Albufera des Grau, on the eastern side of the island. A visitor centre (tel 971-356303), offers plenty of information about species that can be spotted, and there are hides available, overlooking a lagoon surrounded by reeds and bushes. The main species include mallard, coot, moorhen, grebes and pochard.
The cliff coastline is populated by a variety of gulls, as well as cormorants, storm petrels and Mediterranean and Balearic shearwaters. Wooded areas are noted for wood pigeons and turtle doves, while bushy scrub features a variety of finches, warblers and blackbirds. Cattle egrets may be seen among grazing cattle. Birds of prey range from the Egyptian vulture and booted eagle to kestrels, red kites, peregrines and owls. Ospreys are only very rarely seen.
The environmental organisation GOB Menorca can offer plenty of information about the birdlife of Menorca, but their website is in Catalan only: www.gobmenorca.com. They manage the Centre de la Naturaleza de Menorca, on Carrer Malloca in Ferreries, which is usually open on Saturdays.
Animals
With the exception of bats, it is likely that nearly all the mammals represented on Menorca were introduced by humans. Most are protected and include small rodents such as dormice and shrews, and larger mammals such as hedgehogs, weasels and pine martens. Rats and rabbits are also present. There are Menorcan varieties of farm animals, including cows, horses, sheep and hens, but the dairy industry is dominated by Friesian herds.
Reptiles include three species of snake, which are rarely encountered. Hermann’s tortoises were introduced to the island and can be found almost everywhere, while terrapins occupy certain pools. The Balearic lizard is native, but its strongholds are restricted to small islets dotted around Menorca. Other species of lizards are more widespread, and geckos may be spotted at night. Amphibians include the tree frog and green toad. The most notable insects are butterflies, but cicadas and grasshoppers chirp and whir noisily among the vegetation.
Protected Areas
Looking along a tidal river near the little coastal village of Es Grau (Walk 15)
The whole island of Menorca was declared a World Biosphere Reserve in 1993. There are over 600 such reserves across the world, including three in England, three in Scotland and one in Wales. They are protected, monitored and managed as demonstration areas for different ecosystems in order to encourage sustainable development.
The ‘core area’ of the reserve, the Parc Natural de s’Albufera des Grau, was designated in 1995, and this also encompasses the sea off the east coast. The Reserva Marina del Nord de Menorca was established to the north of the island in 1999. Almost half of the island, including most of the coastline, was granted special protection as a ‘buffer zone’. Even those parts of the island which aren’t specifically protected are still regarded as a ‘transition zone’ within the Biosphere Reserve.
When to go
The best times to walk in Menorca are spring and autumn, but especially spring if you have an interest in wild flowers, or want to see the island at its most colourful. High summer, in July and August, is a very busy time and many walkers would find it too hot to be enjoyable. Winter is generally mild, but it can occasionally be cold, grey and wet. This need not be a problem, but when the ground is wet the clay is often sticky and slippery underfoot. Deep puddles may form on rutted paths and tracks, and some streams may need to be forded. Snow is exceptionally rare and seldom lies for any length of time.
Once on Menorca, the daily weather forecast is easily checked by looking at a copy of the local newspaper, the Menorca Diario Insular. The El Tiempo page is easily understood as it uses obvious weather symbols.
Accommodation
Where you choose to base yourself will depend on when you visit Menorca, and how you plan to explore it. If you are planning to use public transport it would be sensible to stay in one of the main centres such as Maó (Mahón) or Ciutadella; however, if you are hiring a car, the island is so small that you will be able to reach your selection of routes from pretty much anywhere, so the seaside resorts will be as practical as the cities.