Walking on Jersey. Paddy Dillon
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museum first, then explore some of the interesting streets and green spaces in town. Free town plans are easily obtained, and there is an excellent one on the back of the 1:25,000 Official Leisure Map of Jersey.
The focal point for starting explorations around St Helier is the wide-open space around the Weighbridge, and, more precisely, Liberation Square and its striking bronze memorial. Carts laden with potatoes and other goods for shipment used to be weighed, then weighed again unladen at the Weighbridge. The difference between the two weights was the weight of the goods, for which payment would be made. Within easy reach of the Weighbridge are three fine museums, all of which have entry charges. The award-winning Jersey Museum, tel. 01534 633300, is in the Ordnance Yard. It explains all about Jersey’s development from its most ancient bedrock to the flickering Reuters screens which offer constant news updates for the world of commerce and high finance.
The Maritime Museum, tel. 01534 811043, is situated on the harbourside. It covers everything from the nature of the weather and tides to sea-life and the lives of fishermen and boat-builders, with plenty of hands-on exhibits. The museum also houses the Occupation Tapestry and details how it was made in the 12 parishes of Jersey.
There are several interesting streets clustered around the Weighbridge. The Esplanade no longer runs beside the sea, as harbour developments have pushed further and further seawards. Following the Esplanade launches straight into Walk 2 around St Aubin’s Bay. Both Mulcaster Street and Conway Street lead directly from Liberation Square to the town centre, and both run close to the ancient Parish Church of St Helier.
The centrepiece of Liberation Square is a striking bronze sculpture
If following Conway Street, a left turn leads onto Broad Street, where the head post office is located, and enquiries can be made about Jersey stamps and first day covers. There is onward access to King Street, Queen Street, New Street and other pedestrianised shopping streets. The old Market Hall, one of the busiest retail spaces in the Channel Islands, is an imposing building on Halkett Place.
Following Mulcaster Street from the Weighbridge leads to the States Offices, with access to Royal Square and its fine buildings.
The name Peirson is forever associated with this square, where the last pitched battle with French forces took place in 1781. Major Peirson won the day, but lost his life, as did the French leader Baron de Rullecourt (see the end of Walk 17 for more information).
By now, several tall buildings associated with commerce and high finance will have been noticed, and these now dominate the town centre.
Looking across the harbour towards the centre of St Helier, with Fort Regent rising to the right
Also dominating the skyline, and named on many signposts, is Fort Regent. Although an old stone wall can be seen encircling this whaleback ridge, once enclosing a 19th century fort, the structures beyond are quite modern. Fort Regent is now a large and varied leisure centre full of attractions and entertainment. What appears to be a mast and rigging rising over the site is actually the last working signal station to be used in the British Isles.
There is no need to climb up to Fort Regent. Simply follow Hill Street and turn right onto Grenville Street to reach Green Street. An old cemetery is now managed as if it were a hay meadow, and around 100 species of plants grow in this little plot. Cutting through the cemetery leads to Hastings Road, which can be used to reach Howard Davis Park. This park is laid out quite formally, with lovely rose gardens, and is well used by locals and visitors. A memorial building tells the story behind the park.
The Parish Church of St Helier stands in the centre of the town
Roads lead down to the sea and a slipway at Le Dicq. The road called Havre des Pas runs past modern developments, but in previous years the scene was quite different. Fort d’Auvergne once stood here and the area was notable for shipbuilding. Ships were constructed on the beaches and either floated off on the high tides, or launched from wooden slides. When the tide is out, rocky reefs appear and careful seamanship is required to navigate around them. A promenade path can be followed round to La Collette, where barracks are surrounded by flowery gardens. La Collette Gardens rise steeply onto the wooded rise of Mount Bingham, which is all parkland and paths. The area also features a towering power station chimney, a prominent landmark.
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