Walking in the Isles of Scilly. Paddy Dillon
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the 17th century, Prince Charles (later King Charles II) stayed briefly at the Star Castle. Towards the end of the Civil War the islands were occupied by disgruntled Royalists who launched pirate raids on passing ships, causing the Dutch to send a fleet of ships to deal with the problem. An English fleet intercepted the Dutch, preventing wholesale destruction on the islands, and thereby gaining the final surrender of the Royalist force.
The remains of a 12th-century Benedictine priory at the Abbey Garden on Tresco (Walk 10)
The 18th century was a time of great poverty on the islands, but despite their remoteness John Wesley visited them in the course of his preaching around the British Isles. Shipbuilding became an important occupation late in the 18th century and continued well into the 19th century. In the early 19th century the Godolphin family allowed their lease on the Isles of Scilly to lapse, so that they reverted to the Duchy of Cornwall. In 1834 Augustus Smith from Hertfordshire took over the lease of the islands as Lord Proprietor, and developed Tresco in particular, building the Abbey House as his residence and establishing the Abbey Garden.
The successful export of flowers from the islands dates from the middle of the 19th century and has enjoyed mixed fortunes. During 1918 the Dorrien-Smith family gave up the lease on all the islands except Tresco. While fortifications on St Mary’s were strengthened in the First World War, the islands escaped lightly. During the Second World War, however, there was a lot more activity around the islands, as submarines and warships played deadly hide and seek in the waters, and several warplanes were stationed there.
Recent History
In a sudden magnanimous gesture in 1949, the Duchy of Cornwall offered the sale of the freehold on most properties occupied by sitting tenants in Hugh Town. The Isles of Scilly were designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in 1975, www.scillyaonb.org.uk. The Duchy leases all its uninhabited islands and unfarmed wilderness land to the Isles of Scilly Wildlife trust, www.ios-wildlifetrust.org.uk. The annual rent is one daffodil! The Trust manages this land for conservation and recreation, safeguarding habitats for flora and fauna, while maintaining the network of footpaths over the land. The designation of a Marine Park to conserve the surrounding sea bed and marine life was another important development. The infrastructure of the islands continues to develop and tourism is an increasingly important industry, but always with due regard to the environment and the conservation of nature.
These brief notes can only give the barest outline of the islands’ history, which has been turbulent and colourful and makes an interesting and absorbing study. Be sure to visit the Isles of Scilly Museum, www.iosmuseum.org, in Hugh Town on St Mary’s for a more thorough grounding and to obtain further information.
The Isles of Scilly have a most colourful and turbulent history and heritage (Walk 10)
Getting to the Isles of Scilly
By Road: The A30 road is the main transport artery through the south-west, pushing through Devon and Cornwall, around Dartmoor and over Bodmin Moor, to terminate abruptly at Land’s End. Motorists will have to abandon their vehicles at airports such as Exeter, Newquay or Land’s End for short flights to Scilly, or at Penzance for the ferry. Cars cannot be taken to the islands, nor are they necessary, so enquire about secure long-term car parking, either in Penzance or at the airports. National Express buses serve Penzance from London, Plymouth, Birmingham and Scotland (www.nationalexpress.com).
By Rail: The rail network terminates at Penzance, served by daily Cross Country trains, www.crosscountrytrains.co.uk, direct from Manchester and Birmingham, or, with a simple change at Birmingham, services operate from as far away as Leeds, Newcastle, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Aberdeen. First Great Western trains run to Penzance daily from London Paddington, www.gwr.com.
Combined rail/sail deals are available through the Isles of Scilly Travel Centre. Transfers can be arranged between Penzance railway station and Land’s End airport, if you chose to fly and enquire while booking your flight. A short walk around the harbour from the railway station leads to Lighthouse Pier where the Scillonian III sails for the Isles of Scilly. Bear in mind, if travelling on weekends, that there are no flights and rarely any ferries to or from the Isles of Scilly on Sundays.
By Ship: The Scillonian III is a fine little ship of 1250 tonnes, sailing once each way between Penzance and St Mary’s from Monday to Saturday from March to November. There are two sailings on Saturdays either side of Whit week and for the World Pilot Gig Championships, as well as Sunday sailings in July and August. Observe the regulations for carrying luggage, which should always be labelled with your destination, and clearly labelled with the name of the particular island you are visiting. Luggage can be conveyed to your accommodation in Hugh Town, but be sure to follow instructions to avail of this service. The journey usually takes 2¾ hours. Bad weather can cause the schedule to be altered in the winter months. For details contact the Isles of Scilly Travel Centre, tel 01736 334220; www.islesofscilly-travel.co.uk
By Aeroplane: All flights to St Mary’s are operated by Skybus, using Twin Otter or Islander aircraft. Flights are available from Exeter, Newquay and Land’s End. Frequency is generally higher on the shorter flights, with those from Land’s End taking only 15 minutes each way. There are no flights on Sundays. Schedules and prices can be checked with the Isles of Scilly Travel Centre, tel 0845 7105555, www.islesofscilly-travel.co.uk. Paulgers Transport meets incoming flights and will take passengers directly to their accommodation on St Mary’s.
Penzance harbour in Cornwall, from where the Scillonian III sails to the islands
Getting around the Isles of Scilly
Buses and Taxis: A regular Community Bus service operates in a circuit around St Mary’s, as well as minibus and vintage bus tours around the island. There are also a handful of taxis, should you need to get to any place in a hurry. Most of the buses start from beside a little park near the Town Hall in the middle of Hugh Town, though services can also be checked at the Tourist Information Centre. The off-islands are small enough to walk around on foot and walkers don’t really need any other form of transport. If choosing an accommodation base on one of the off-islands, the proprietor may be able to meet you at the quayside with a vehicle and assist with transferring luggage, but ask if this is possible when booking.
St Mary’s Boatmen’s Association: Run on a co-operative basis, the Association runs several launches from Hugh Town on St Mary’s to the off-islands of St Agnes, Bryher, Tresco and St Martin’s. Launches to Bryher may also drop passengers at the uninhabited island of Samson on request. Details of services run by the Association, plus a wealth of cruises, are advertised on notice boards on The Quay at Hugh Town, as well as at the quaysides on the off-islands. Details can also be obtained from the Tourist Information Centre. The Association operates a small ticket kiosk on the Old Quay at Hugh Town. There are more ferries and cruises to more places in the high season than in the winter months. Bear in mind that the onset of stormy weather can lead to the sudden cancellation of all boat services around the islands. St Mary’s Boatmen’s Association can be contacted at Rose Cottage, The Strand, St Mary’s, Isles of Scilly, TR21 0PT, tel 01720 423999, www.scillyboating.co.uk. Other services to and from the off-islands are operated by St Agnes Boating, tel 01720 422704, www.stagnesboating.co.uk; Tresco Boat Services offer services to and from the islands