Walking and Trekking on Corfu. Gillian Price
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charming Kaminaki, where the pebbly seafront is lined with tavernas, go L (NNE) to the end of the beach. Here a clear path leads along the rocky coast in the company of giant agave plants. Private secluded villas perched in scenic spots are passed. It’s not far to Nissaki bay, which is popular with the groups at the only big hotel on this stretch of coast. Continue past the swimming pool to the bar then go up and along the front of the hotel building to where the lovely path resumes, as does peace and quiet. Shaded by olive trees and flanked by bleached rocks, the way soon climbs steeply albeit briefly on steps circling private property. The glittering turquoise sea is constantly seen through the trees. Further along gradual descent concludes at lovely Agni beach. Here you walk through the premises of friendly Nikolas Taverna.
On the way to Agni beach
Once the jetty and other eateries have been passed you pick up the path once more, signed for Gialiskari beach. This climbs a little through holm oak wood on another lovely stretch leading to quiet Gialiskari beach, an expanse of pebbles in a secluded cove where yachts moor. Here fork left, following signs for Kalami. A wall of prickly pear shrubs and a vegetable plot are passed and it’s up to join a concreted lane through olive groves. At a tarmac road, continue straight ahead in descent for the short distance separating you from the landmark villa the White House.
The former residence of expatriate British writer Lawrence Durrell, the cube-shaped White House is now a charming restaurant with accommodation.
Immediately after the building take the steps to the waterfront and jetty and proceed along the beach of Kalami (1hr) with its eateries.
At the far end take the steps to the road and follow the tarmac up the hill to an intersection where you need the downhill fork for Kouloura. At the bottom you go right for the promontory housing highly photogenic Kouloura, with its petite harbour for fishing boats, taverna and 11th-century church.
The charming harbour at Kouloura
Backtrack to the last turnoff and keep straight ahead to the beach of Chouchoulio, shaded by towering eucalyptus trees. Near an old building at the far end is a path signed for Kerasia. This leads around the next point to a quiet pebble beach which concludes at low cliffs. These are avoided as the path forks left for a lovely wander across the low headland. Just after another small beach ignore the turn-off left for overgrown ‘Public path main road’ and keep on the level way in the company of masses of white sea squills and thorny bushes. Kerasia beach (45min) is a lovely conclusion to the walk. The long quiet pebbly beach is backed with shady eucalypts, and there’s a taverna at the far end.
Return the same way to Kaminaki (1hr 45min). Alternatively, if you want to call it a day here, look for the sign halfway along the beach pointing inland for a route leading up to the main road.
WALK 2
Kalami to Menegoulas loop
| Start/Finish | Kalami |
| Distance | 15km |
| Ascent/Descent | 550m/550m |
| Grade | 2–3 |
| Walking time | 5hr |
| Refreshments | Porta, Kaminaki, Nissaki bay, Agni, Kalami |
| Access | Kalami is 1.5km off the main coastal road: if you catch the bus (Kassiopi line), ask the driver where to get off; from the bus stop it’s 20min on foot down to the waterfront where the walk starts |
This is an excellent – if long and tiring – circuit above the northeastern coast, for which walking boots are recommended. The walk starts at the lovely bay of Kalami, which boasts a quiet pebble beach, a supermarket and a scatter of smart tavernas. The way climbs through olive groves and small villages to the austere, arid middle reaches of the island’s highest mountain, Oros Pandokratoras (Mount Pandokratoras). Afterwards it plunges back to the glorious coast for an exceptionally pretty jaunt from cove to cove: walkers are spoilt for choice of swimming spots. The route is inadvisable in hot weather due to the ascent involved and the longish stretches where shade is a scarce commodity. Take plenty of water and food; the only café on the inland stretch is located at Porta, although once you’re back on the seafront they are plentiful. Waymarking is fairly good except on the mountain, so follow the directions carefully.
The walk starts at the lovely bay of Kalami, which boasts a quiet pebble beach, a supermarket and a scatter of smart tavernas as well as the White House, the unmistakable cube building at the southern end, once the residence of members of the Durrell family.
Leave the southernmost end of Kalami by passing in front of the White House, then take the road uphill. As it bends right, go left on a concrete lane down through olive groves to where a path continues past vegetable gardens to the lovely secluded cove of Gialiskari beach. Turn immediately right up a white rock-based way, then soon left on a path alongside a wire fence. This leads over to pretty Agni beach. Walk past the inviting cafés and continue straight through the premises of friendly Nikolas Taverna and up past a large white stone house. Not far along you leave the coastal path and fork right on a path with yellow paint markers. This climbs steadily past private villas. You cross a road then proceed on an old stepped and paved way through well-graded terraces of olives and cypress trees. Where houses are reached, keep straight on along an alleyway and up to the square of Kentroma (40min) for views all the way to Corfu Town.
Pretty Agni beach
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