One Night Wilderness: Portland. Becky Ohlsen
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in a cloud city, and a gentle stroll the next day through some of the most enchanting alpine valleys in the Pacific Northwest. Stress? What stress? You can find all this, by the way, on the Snowgrass Flat Loop hike.
You could do many of these trips as day hikes, especially if you get to the trailhead early in the day. But there’s something about spending the night—maybe because carrying everything you need makes you feel tough and self-reliant—that adds immeasurably to the experience. The Portland area is rich with writers who love the outdoors, so there are dozens of excellent guides to day hikes in the area. There are also several good volumes on extended backpacking trips, the kind you plan and prepare for months to pull off. I’ve been lucky enough to work on one of those guides too. But this book strikes the perfect balance between the two: a hand-picked range of accessible hikes, often kid-friendly and requiring minimal time commitment, that also gives you backpacker-friendly details like where to find the best campsites and water sources, what permits and regulations apply, and the best way to get to the trailhead.
It’s true we’re all busy—but there’s a good reason we live in this fantastic place, where the outdoors is so easily within reach. I hope you’ll take time to enjoy it, and if you’re so inclined, send me a note about your trip at [email protected].
Tips on Backpacking in the Pacific Northwest
Although this is more of a where-to than a how-to guide, it may be helpful, especially for those new to our area, to cover a few basic tips and ideas specific to backcountry travel in the Pacific Northwest.
GET THE RIGHT PERMITS Most national forests in our region require that a Northwest Forest Pass be displayed in the window of all vehicles parked within 0.25 mile of any major, developed trailhead. Isolated trailheads with minimal or no facilities are generally exempt. In 2019 daily permits were $5 and an annual pass was $30. The annual passes are available at ranger stations and at many local sporting goods stores, or they can be purchased online at discovernw.org (click on “Store”).
CHECK THE SNOWPACK The winter snowpack has a significant effect, not only on when a trail opens, but also on wildflower blooming times, peak stream flows, and how long seasonal water sources will be available. It’s a good idea to check the snowpack on or about April 1 (the usual seasonal maximum), and make a note of how it compares to normal. This information is available online at nrcs.usda.gov (click on “State Websites” and navigate to Oregon or Washington). If the snowpack is significantly above or below average, adjust the trip’s seasonal recommendations accordingly.
WATCH OUT FOR LOGGING TRUCKS When driving on forest roads in our area, keep an eye out for logging trucks, especially on weekdays. These scary behemoths often barrel along with little regard for those annoying speed bumps known as passenger cars.
CHECK TRAIL CONDITIONS The Northwest’s frequently severe winter storms create annual problems for trail crews. Occasionally trails are washed out for years, but at a minimum, early-season hikers should expect to crawl over deadfall and search for routes around slides and flooded riverside trails. Depending on current funding and the trail’s popularity, maintenance may not be completed until several weeks after a trail is snow-free and officially open. Unfortunately, this means that trail maintenance is often done well after the optimal time to visit. On the positive side, trails are usually less crowded before the maintenance has been completed.
LEAF IT, DON’T LEAVE IT For environmentally conscious backpackers, one good solution to the old problem of how to dispose of toilet paper is to find a natural alternative. Two excellent options are the large, soft leaves of thimbleberry at lower elevations, and the light-green lichen that hangs from trees at higher elevations. They’re not exactly Charmin soft, but they get the job done.
WARN HUNTERS YOU’RE NOT A DEER General deer-hunting season in Oregon and Washington runs from late September to early November. For safety, anyone planning to travel on national or state forest land during these periods (particularly those doing any cross-country travel) should carry and wear a bright red or orange cap, vest, pack, or other conspicuous article of clothing. Hunting is generally not allowed in state or national parks (apart from some very limited and specific exceptions for waterfowl), so this precaution does not apply to those areas.
YOU’RE NOT AN ELK, EITHER Along the same lines as the above, elk-hunting season is generally held in late October or early November. The exact season varies in different parts of each state.
BE CAREFUL WITH FUNGI Mushrooms are a Northwest backcountry delicacy. Although our damp climate makes it possible to find mushrooms in any season, late August–November is usually best. Where and when the mushrooms can be found varies with elevation, precipitation, and other factors. In some places, you’re not allowed to take anything out of the forest without a permit; if you do find any fungi, be sure it’s OK to collect them for personal use. Also make absolutely sure that you know your fungi. There are several poisonous species of mushrooms in our forests, and every year people become ill or even die when they make a mistake in identification.
BRING THE BEATER Sadly, car break-ins and vandalism are regular occurrences at trailheads. This is especially true at popular trailheads and a particular problem for backpackers who leave their vehicles unattended overnight. Thus, hikers need to take reasonable precautions. Do not encourage the criminals by providing unnecessary temptation. Preferably, leave the new car at home and drive to the trailhead in an older vehicle. Even more important, leave nothing of value inside, especially not in plain sight.
Safety
While backpacking is not an inherently dangerous sport, there are certain risks you take anytime you venture away from the comforts of civilization. The trips in this book go through remote wilderness terrain. In an emergency, medical supplies and facilities will not be immediately available. The fact that a hike is described in this book does not guarantee that it will be safe for you. Hikers must be properly equipped and in adequate physical condition to handle a given trail. Because trail conditions, weather, and hiker ability all vary considerably, the author and the publisher cannot assume responsibility for anyone’s safety. Use plenty of common sense and a realistic appraisal of your abilities, and you will be able to enjoy these trips safely.
Spectacular scenery makes the Snowgrass Flat Loop (Trip 11) extremely popular.
The following section outlines the common hazards encountered in the Portland area outdoors and discusses how to approach them.
Plant Hazards
POISON OAK If you recognize only one plant in the Pacific Northwest, it should probably be this one, which grows as a low-lying shrub or bush. Its glossy, oaklike leaves grow in clusters of three and turn bright red in the fall before dropping off in the winter. The leaves and stems contain an oil (urushiol) that causes a strong allergic reaction in most people, creating a long-lived, maddeningly itchy rash where the oil contacts the skin. Wash skin thoroughly with soap and water as soon as possible, and clean any clothing and pets that may have come into contact with the plant as well.
poison oak
Photo by Jane Huber
Animal Hazards
BEARS Black bears are found throughout Oregon and Washington. If you encounter one, stay calm, avoid eye contact, and back away slowly. In areas known to have bears, use the food storage boxes provided at campgrounds, and carry