One Night Wilderness: Portland. Douglas Lorain
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Highlights
Although it features some exceptionally nice views along the way, the Duckabush River Trail is primarily a forest hike that follows one of the largest and most important rivers flowing out of the eastern Olympic Mountains. Since the trail is open for most of the year, this is a particularly good choice for a spring or fall adventure, when the higher mountains are still encased in snow.
Getting There
Drive 110 miles north of Portland on Interstate 5 to Olympia and take Exit 104 for U.S. Highway 101. After 6 miles, exit to the right, staying on Highway 101, and then drive 50 miles to a junction with paved Duckabush River Road near Milepost 310. Turn left (west), drive 6.1 miles on pavement then good gravel to a junction, bear right, and reach the road-end trailhead after another 0.2 mile.
Hiking It
The gravel-strewn trail begins on a hillside well away from the river as it makes a gentle climb through a forest of Douglas firs and western hemlocks. After gaining 450 feet in 1.2 miles, the trail reaches the relatively unimpressive top of a rocky spur called Little Hump. From here you descend all the way to the river and walk across lush river-level flats filled with old stumps (testament to the logging that once occurred here) and a vigorous second-growth forest of Douglas firs, maples, and countless thousands of ferns. At 2.2 miles is an excellent campsite beside the clear Duckabush River. If you are backpacking with children, this is a good place to spend the night.
Beyond the first camp you face the trip’s biggest obstacle, a 1000-foot climb over the top of Big Hump. This rocky mass, which was left behind by ancient glaciers, requires two dozen short, fairly steep, and rather tiring switchbacks to conquer. Fortunately, partway up is a perfect rest stop at a fine overlook with a superb view of the forested Duckabush Valley. Across the valley to the south rises prominent St. Peters Dome, whose towering sheer sides make it look as if it were transplanted from California’s Yosemite Valley. Beyond this viewpoint more uphill takes you past a nice but not as impressive viewpoint before you come to the indistinct top of Big Hump in viewless forest.
It is nearly all downhill from here as switchbacks descend 700 feet to the cascading Duckabush River just above where the water cuts a gorge around Big Hump. Not far upstream is Five Mile Camp (actually at 5.2 miles, but close enough), a comfortable site with room for a few tents. Beyond here the trail stays in valley forests, making many small ups and downs but never straying too far from the water. There are several possible campsites along the way, but if you go beyond 6.7 miles, where the trail enters the national park, you will need a Park Service permit to spend the night. The park also prohibits firearms and pets. Hardy hikers can continue their wilderness adventure, reaching lovely Ten Mile Camp at (you guessed it) a little over 10 miles, and eventually climbing to the gorgeous high meadows and lakes around Marmot Lake and O’Neil Pass. Both of these destinations are more than 20 miles into the heart of the glorious Olympic backcountry.
St. Peters Dome from Duckabush River Trail, Olympic National Forest
2 Lake of the Angels
| RATINGS | Scenery 8 Difficulty 8 Solitude 7 | |
| ROUND-TRIP DISTANCE | 7.4 miles | |
| ELEVATION GAIN | 3400 feet | |
| OPTIONAL MAPS | Green Trails: The Brothers, Mount Steel | |
| USUALLY OPEN | Mid-July to October | |
| BEST TIMES | Mid-July to October | |
| AGENCY | Hood Canal Ranger District (Olympic National Forest) and Olympic National Park | |
| PERMIT | Park Service permit required for camping at the lake. Permits cost $5 to register your group, plus $2 per person per night. Contact the park’s wilderness information center for permits. |
Highlights
Although relatively short, this is a steep and challenging hike that takes you to a wonderfully scenic little alpine lake high in the Olympic Mountains. In addition to being a great destination in itself, the lake is a fine place to set up a base camp for explorations of the surrounding mountains. Due to the steepness and exposure of this route, those who are afraid of heights should not attempt this hike. Boots with good traction are a must, especially if conditions are wet.
Getting There
Drive 110 miles north of Portland on Interstate 5 to Olympia and take Exit 104 for U.S. Highway 101. After 6 miles you exit to the right, staying on Highway 101, and then drive 43.8 miles to a junction with paved Hamma Hamma River Road near Milepost 318. Turn left (west), drive 6.5 miles to a T junction, turn right, and then go 5.7 miles first on pavement then good gravel to the signed Putvin Trailhead immediately after a bridge over Boulder Creek.
Hiking It
The trail begins as a well-maintained path that climbs moderately steeply through a second-growth forest of western hemlocks and western red cedars. Salal, vine maple, sword fern, and Oregon grape are abundant beneath the forest canopy. On your right, generally unseen Boulder Creek cascades along in a nearly continuous waterfall. At 0.3 mile you pass the signed but easy-to-miss gravesite of Carl Putvin, who, the sign informs you, was a “pioneer, trapper, and explorer” who lived from 1892 to 1913. About 0.2 mile above this point, the trail climbs steeply around some huge moss-covered boulders before cutting to the left away from the creek and traveling at a gentler grade across a hillside. A few partial breaks in the forest here reveal tantalizing glimpses of rugged Mt. Pershing to the south.
At 1 mile you cross a pair of rocky gullies where the trail is prone to washouts. In another 0.3 mile you meet a long-abandoned road. Turn left (slightly downhill), and walk 25 yards to the resumption of the trail.
The now almost continuously steep trail makes a few short switchbacks, and then traverses to a sign indicating your entry into the Mount Skokomish Wilderness. Shortly beyond this sign, at 1.7 miles, and just before you come to (but do not cross) tumbling Whitehorse Creek, is a mediocre campsite on the right. From here more very steep uphill in short switchbacks leads to a relatively open avalanche chute at 2.3 miles that is choked with bracken fern, beargrass, and pearly everlasting.
Just 0.2 mile after the avalanche chute you reach a gently sloping basin filled with an impenetrable tangle of slide alder. Directly ahead of you, at the northwest end of this basin, is a steep headwall where waterfalls cascade down from above. Lake of the Angels sits at the top of this imposing headwall. The rough trail climbs around the right side of the basin and then charges very steeply uphill, often over exposed rocks. In a couple of places you will need to grab onto rocks and roots to help pull yourself up.
Near the top of the headwall, the terrain opens up, becomes less steep, and features lots of huckleberries and good views. The trail’s last 0.5 mile goes up and down, crossing a marshy meadow and several small creeks, and passing a shallow pond before depositing you on the northeast shore of Lake of the Angels. This very scenic, teardrop-shaped lake is surrounded by rocky areas, meadows, and high-elevation conifers such as subalpine firs, Alaska yellow cedars, and mountain hemlocks. As always, never camp in the fragile meadows near the lake, but instead seek out