Mountain goats on snowfield south of Panhandle Gap

      Large mammals that inhabit the park include Roosevelt elk (which are most often seen in the meadows in the eastern part of the park), black bears, coyotes, and mountain goats. The last species prefers high-elevation crags, snowfields, and ridges and is most commonly seen by Wonderland Trail hikers on Emerald Ridge, Goat Island Mountain, and Skyscraper Mountain, and near Panhandle Gap. A partial listing of some of the rarely seen mammals in the park includes river otters, mountain lions, bobcats, northern flying squirrels, and striped skunks.

WEATHER

      Apart from a possible illness or injury along the way, nothing will affect your comfort and enjoyment of the Wonderland Trail more than the weather.

      As is true throughout the Pacific Northwest, the weather on Mount Rainier is primarily influenced by its proximity to the Pacific Ocean and the string of moisture-laden storms that roll in off that enormous body of water throughout much of the year. During the rainy season, which normally runs about October–May but which occasionally lasts all summer, a seemingly endless series of storms hit the region, usually following a northwest to southeast track. Some of the moisture is extracted by the Olympic Mountains to the west, but there is still plenty of water left by the time the clouds reach the area. The enormous topographic relief of the mountain forces the clouds to climb, and the process progressively squeezes out more precipitation. Thus, at lower elevations on the mountain, the average annual precipitation ranges from “only” 60–80 inches, while at higher elevations that number climbs to 100 inches or more. After passing over the mountain the clouds have lost much of their moisture, which places the east side of Mount Rainier around Sunrise or Summerland in the rain shadow, or more accurately around here the “snow shadow.” As a result, these areas are somewhat drier than the west side, though they are still a long way from arid. By the time the storms have made their way over the entire Cascade Range and are passing over central Washington, so much of the water has been extracted that the area is a semidesert with only 15 inches or so of annual precipitation.

      During the long winters, the vast majority of precipitation falls as snow, and for a significant percentage of the year all or almost all of Mount Rainier National Park is covered with snow. Fortunately, that is not when you will (or at least should) be hiking the Wonderland Trail. So while it is interesting that Paradise is considered the snowiest place on Earth (at least among locations where snow is regularly measured), with a staggering annual average of more than 50 feet, this really affects you only when considering how long into the season it will take for the previous winter’s snowpack to melt off the trail.

      During the summer months, when rational people hike the trail, the weather is a lot more benign. But that is not to say that you should plan on it being 60–70ºF and sunny every day of your hike. In fact, the chances of that happening for the 10–14 days that it takes to complete the trip are just about zero. Even in July and August (generally the best weather months) hail, snow, high winds, fog, blizzards, and especially rain can and do occur, and hikers must be prepared to face these elements. Quality raingear and a good tent are absolute necessities. Attempting the trail without these is a recipe for a great deal of discomfort and possibly disaster. The usual late July or August day on the mountain is partly sunny with a high of 60–75ºF, lows in the 40s, and a light breeze or wind, especially at higher elevations. This sounds (and is) very pleasant. Unfortunately, mountain weather in general, and on Mount Rainier in particular, is unpredictable. A clear sky can turn into clouds and rain or even snow in a remarkably short period of time. Check the weather forecasts and watch the skies carefully so you are prepared for what is coming.

      Thunderstorms, though not nearly as common on Mount Rainier as they are in places such as the southern Rocky Mountains, should be expected from time to time during the summer. If you see a thunderstorm developing, and especially if you see lightning, do not leave the lowlands and climb into the high country. Instead, wait down in the forest for the storm to pass before beginning your ascent. If you find yourself already in the high country when a thunderstorm comes along, then get off that open ridgetop and hightail it back down into forested terrain. Very few areas along the Wonderland Trail remain above timberline for so long that you couldn’t simply pick up the pace for a while and find yourself back down in the relative safety of the forest. Typically, thunderstorms last for only an hour or two and then you can resume your trek.

      Rays of sun through fog near Golden Lakes

      A NOTE ABOUT PHOTOGRAPHY

      The good news is that if the weather cooperates, you don’t have to be Ansel Adams to take stunning photos while hiking the Wonderland Trail. In fact, much of the time, you’d almost have to be trying not to take beautiful pictures. Simply point your camera at the mountain and shoot. The scenery is so outstanding that it’s pretty hard to mess things up.

      Of course, there are plenty of techniques to help you turn those already good pictures into great ones. Photography books devote hundreds of pages to special lighting techniques, the latest filters, backlighting ideas, and other technical stuff that is really only useful for the advanced photographer. I maintain that the most important thing to do if you want to take beautiful pictures is much more low-tech: go to beautiful places! Fortunately, by hiking the Wonderland Trail, you already have that one covered. So step two is to go to beautiful places at the right time. Make a point to climb that ridge above camp as the sun goes down to catch the sunset. Plan your hike so the sun is at your back (not shining directly into the camera lens) when you want to take a picture of the mountain over that classic meadow or lake. Get up early in the morning to catch a mirrorlike reflection in the lake before the wind picks up and ruins things. You get the idea. A little planning will result in much better pictures than if you rely solely on luck.

      The next tip is to keep your camera easily accessible. This will allow you to take candid pictures of your hiking companions and obtain that spur-of-the-moment wildlife shot before the animal runs away. Perhaps even more important, having your camera right at hand has a psychological advantage because people whose photo gear is buried deep in the pack will often talk themselves out of taking what might turn out to be a great picture, just because they don’t want to go to the trouble of digging the camera out of its hiding place.

      Next, when you have what looks to be a great scene, be sure to take 1) lots of pictures (remember, these days it only costs you digital memory; you aren’t out a penny for wasted film), 2) pictures from several different angles, and 3) shots that are framed with a tree on the side, flowers in the foreground, interesting clouds in the sky, and so on. These extra elements often make all the difference in the world in the overall quality of your photographs.

      One more tip: Because you will undoubtedly be taking lots of pictures, be sure to carry an extra camera battery and a spare memory card. The odds are good that you will need both.

      A final very important point about photography involves protecting your equipment. Local weather patterns being what they are, water protection for your camera should be considered a necessity. In addition, with all the rugged terrain along the Wonderland Trail, the occasional fall or bump into a tree is common enough that more than one expensive camera has broken or had its delicate electronic systems damaged. It is important, therefore, that you use good (and tough) camera equipment and protect it in a waterproof case.

      Small pond in Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground

      If you are camped at lower elevations during a stretch of good weather in the summer months, especially on the west side of the mountain near Longmire or along the Carbon or Mowich Rivers, you stand a good chance of waking up beneath a heavy layer of low clouds. This common phenomenon is the result of cool marine air pushing in clouds from Puget Sound and is rarely cause for concern. More often than

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