One Best Hike: Yosemite's Half Dome. Rick Deutsch
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What to Bring
When to Go
Guided Hikes
POI 1: Mileage Marker Sign
POI 2: Vernal Fall Bridge
POI 3: Top of Vernal Fall
POI 4: Silver Apron Bridge
POI 5: Mist Trail–JMT Junction
POI 6: Little Yosemite Valley
POI 7: Half Dome–JMT Split
POI 8: The Little Spring
POI 9: Base of Sub Dome
POI 10: Base of the Cables
POI 11: Apex of Half Dome
POI 12: The Little Spring—again
POI 13: Little Yosemite Valley—again
POI 14: Mist Trail–JMT Junction—again
POI 15: Nevada Fall Bridge
POI 16: Clark Point
POI 17: Vernal Fall Bridge—again
POI 18: Mileage Marker Sign—again
APPENDIX 1: Key Dates in Yosemite and Half Dome History
APPENDIX 2: Preventive Search and Rescue Tips
APPENDIX 3: Half Dome Hiking Accidents
APPENDIX 4: References and Information Sources
Foreword
I heartily recommend this book. It is a well-written and thorough guide to reaching the top of my favorite Yosemite rock form. Why is Half Dome my favorite? Because it stands alone at the east end of Yosemite Valley. It isn’t as big as El Capitan, 7 miles to the west. With its 3,000-foot south face, El Capitan guards the gates of the valley. But Half Dome has a 2,000-foot northwest face that is straight up and down, a summit that isn’t reachable by merely hiking a trail through the forest, and the Dome is almost 2,000 feet higher than El Cap. Half Dome was first climbed in 1875 by George Anderson, a Scot (John Muir, another Scot, reached the summit of Cathedral Peak in 1869). These days Half Dome is ascended tens of thousands of times a year. Why? Because people want to be able to say, as they look up from the valley, “I’ve been there.” Once, the author of this book, after complimenting me on having made the first ascent of the great face of Half Dome, claimed that “Of course, I went up the easy way.” As I said to Rick then and say to you, dear reader, now, “There’s no easy way up Half Dome.” Getting to the top requires a nearly 16-mile round-trip and an elevation gain of almost 5,000 feet. That’s a bit of work for a day, but you can do it. I would read carefully what Rick Deutsch has to say in this revised second edition, especially about being fit. You want to be fit and to have good footwear.
Rick has had to revise this guide to hiking Half Dome. Things change, and the guide has to change with them. In particular, there is now a permit system to ascend the cable stairway of Half Dome. Yes, I know, permit systems are a bother. Oh, for the days when we could spend the night on top of Half Dome. The park service instituted the permit system to cut down on the crowding that was occurring on the cables. There have been a few serious accidents that were attributable to so many people being up there at the same time. Rick now includes a thorough guide to navigating the permit system.
The only place where I differ significantly from Rick is on starting time. Rick recommends an early start. I agree. But where Rick suggests 6 a.m., I am for 3 a.m. I know it is hard to get up that early, but if you do you will never be sorry. You will hike up in the cool of the morning and reach the top ahead of the crowds, so much ahead of them that you will be able to descend the cables before they arrive and start up. Rick also says that June is his favorite time of year in Yosemite. I prefer the fall. It’s true that the waterfalls have dried up, but there are no bugs, the air is clear, the Mist Trail is dry, and the people have left.
Have a good hike and remember, you are going to the best summit in the Yosemite region.
Royal Robbins
Modesto, CA
March 2012
Note: Royal Robbins led the first group to climb the 1,800-foot-high Regular Northwest Face route on Half Dome in 1957.
Preface
The motto for my life is “carpe diem.” This is a Latin phrase meaning “seize the day.” It is believed to have originated with the ancient philosopher Horace, the leading Roman lyric poet during the time of Augustus Caesar. The phrase was made popular in the 1989 movie Dead Poets Society, starring Robin Williams. He invoked his students: “Carpe diem! Seize the day, lads. Make your lives extraordinary!” Another interpretation would be: “Smell the rose today, for it may be wilted tomorrow.”
My first Half Dome hike, in 1990, was a life-changing experience. It was so much fun and so challenging that I decided to do it every year. It made me realize that if I was to experience all life had to offer, I had to get planning. I wrote a life list (now called a bucket list, a term made popular by the 2007 film starring Jack Nicholson and Morgan Freeman) to make sure I did the things I wanted to do. Prior to Half Dome I said, “Someday I want to see the pyramids; someday I will see the Taj Mahal; someday I will walk on the Great Wall.” When you are young, you have a lot of “somedays.” But in reality, someday often never comes. I have carried my life list for more than 20 years and checked off many things. For me it’s a living list—I constantly add things. I had never heard of Jordan’s treasure, Petra, five years ago and now I’ve been there. Looking back, for me Half Dome was the start of this awareness. We all have a finite number of heartbeats allocated to us, and one day tomorrow will not come. Our personal life odometer clicks over relentlessly; too soon you’re 30, 40, 50, and beyond. It seems to spin too fast. What you do with your time is your decision. You have a choice: Sit on the sidelines and watch the world on your TV or get out and live life. Experience things while you can; hike Half Dome.
Try this exercise. Write down all the things you want to do or see or experience before you die. Now write down the number of years you think you will remain ambulatory and able to physically and mentally attempt those things. Next, consider how much free time you will have available. This should be your private list—only put down the things that you personally want to do. And remember that you’ll likely use some of your vacation time for weddings, funerals, and family events. A few of your major wants may take two weeks or more (a safari, a trip to Antarctica, a bike ride across America). You will see that there is not enough time left to do the whole list—let alone repeat the spectacular ones. Put down the TV remote and strap on your hiking boots, ride your bike, swim, run, or just smell that rose today.
In this second edition, I have incorporated a wealth of learning gained about Half Dome and the early days of Yosemite. I expanded on much of the early Yosemite history and geology and added GPS points to help you arrive at the points of interest. At press time I had done the hike 31 times. Half Dome is my passion; make it yours.
I’ll do my best to get you to the top of your mountain. You can do Half Dome with three things: education, preparation, and motivation. I will help teach you what