101 Hikes in Northern California. Matt Heid
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BIG SUR IS exceptional country. Open redwood forest lines creeks gurgling clear as glass, mountains rise thousands of feet above the foaming surf, and bare golden hilltops offer sweeping vistas of it all.
The Hike A steady ascent along Ewoldsen Trail takes you through a creekside redwood forest on your way to a viewpoint atop an open bluff more than 1,600 feet above the sea. Crowds are constant on the Big Sur coast and—due to the limited amount of public land directly along the coast—all hiking trails receive heavy use. This is not a hike for solitude, and summer months are the worst for crowds. Water is available at the trailhead.
To Reach the Trailhead Take Hwy. 1 to the Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park entrance, 11 miles south of Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park on the central Big Sur coast. There is a $10 day-use fee, valid for all Big Sur area state parks.
Description From the trailhead in the upper parking lot (0.0/280'), the path immediately enters the redwood forest and passes along a wooden fence before dropping down to a picnic area by McWay Creek. The open forest here is much different from the temperate rain forest more commonly associated with redwoods farther north. Here, at the southern limit of their range, the trees are only able to find adequate moisture for growth along the small creeks and rivers that slice the Big Sur coast. The drier conditions prevent the redwoods from obtaining the colossal size of their northern counterparts and eliminate the dense understory and thick moss normally present. A few small patches of redwood sorrel, ferns, and seasonal wildflowers can be found among the litter of the forest floor, but generally the forest is remarkably open.
McWay Falls
Crossing the clear creek by a run-down barn, the trail begins climbing through an area good for bird-watching. American dippers can often be observed ducking in and out of the water as they look for aquatic insects and other snacks on the creek bottom. Small brown creepers are easily identified overhead by their ability to ascend trees vertically, spiraling around the trunk as they go. The junction for Canyon Trail is soon encountered (0.2/400'); it’s a quick and worthwhile 0.1-mile side trip leading to a delightful bench by a cascading ribbon of water.
Back on the main trail, you climb steeply above the canyon on a few switchbacks as tanoak begins to appear trailside. After crossing the south fork of the creek, the trail traverses the slopes and passes through a dramatic vegetation change, where redwoods suddenly disappear into thick chaparral. Large redwoods reappear as you rejoin the creek and reach a junction by a small bridge (1.6/880'). This is the start of the loop. Go right, passing several substantial trees as the trail winds along the creek. You next turn west and ascend through coast live oak and California bay to the high point of the hike where spectacular views await (2.7/1,700').
Hwy. 1 winds along the edge of the continent below and the aquamarine clarity of the ocean often allows you to distinguish a sandy bottom. Looking south, several drainages are identifiable beyond that of McWay Creek, overshadowed by peaks of the high ridge rising abruptly and paralleling the coast a short distance inland. From this viewpoint, the ridgetop is still more than 2,000 feet above you, and the tallest summit visible south is nearly 4,000 feet high and less than 3 miles from the ocean—imposing topography indeed. This is also a good spot to look for red-tailed hawks and other raptors scanning the bare hillsides for lunch. From here, the trail drops behind the ridge, losing views as it makes a half-mile traverse before cutting back to quickly descend to McKay Creek and the junction at your loop’s end. Head right to retrace your path to the trailhead.
Nearest Visitor Center Big Sur Station, 831-667-2315, 10 miles north of the entrance for Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park and just south of Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park on Hwy. 1, is open daily 9 a.m.–4 p.m. Memorial Day–Labor Day; the rest of the year it’s open intermittently depending on staffing availability.
Nearest Campground Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park has 218 sites ($20–$35, depending on site and time of year). Reservations are essential in the summer; visit reserveamerica.com or call 800-444-7275.
Additional Information www.parks.ca.gov
Big Sur bonanza from Ewoldsen Trail
HIKE 5 Molera Beach
Highlight Peace and quiet on the beach
Distance 5.0 miles
Total Elevation Gain/Loss 200'/200'
Hiking Time 3–4 hours
Recommended Map USGS 7.5-min. Big Sur
Best Times September–May
Agency Andrew Molera State Park
Difficulty
FOR CONSTANTLY BEING by the ocean, there is remarkably little coastal access from Hwy. 1 on the Big Sur coast. The jagged rocks and sheer cliffs that make the region so spectacular also make finding a beach, much less a secluded beach, a difficult proposition. Luckily there is Andrew Molera State Park and its 2-mile-long stretch of sand, whose farther end offers an opportunity to escape the crowds and commune peacefully with the sea.
The Hike explores the length of Molera Beach, traveling to its end before returning along the low bluffs. This is a tide-dependent hike, and the beach is treacherous and impassable in places during high tides, making it necessary to walk along the bluffs during these times. Tide tables are usually posted on the information sign in the parking lot, or you can check at Big Sur Station before heading out. Those arriving around high tide should hike first along the bluffs and return along the beach closer to low tide. Due to the treacherous nature of ocean currents here, swimming is deemed unsafe. Be aware that the seasonal starting footbridge across Big Sur River is removed after the first heavy winter rains, making it necessary to ford the swollen river during the winter months. Water is available at the trailhead. Dogs are prohibited.
To Reach the Trailhead Take Hwy. 1 south of Carmel for 22 miles to the park entrance and substantial parking lot. Approaching from the south, the turnoff is 4.2 miles north of the park entrance for Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park and is a hard, dogleg left turn. There is a day-use fee of $10, valid for all Big Sur area state parks. It is possible to reach the trailhead by public transportation on Monterey-Salinas Transit Bus 22, which runs two to three times daily from downtown Monterey to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park from Memorial Day to Labor Day, weekends only during the rest of the year. Call 888-678-2871 for current schedule and fare information, or visit mst.org.
Description From the trailhead, cross Big Sur River on the narrow footbridge and bear right on Beach Trail. Paralleling but beyond sight of the river, you pass the Creamery, a former pasture slowly being replanted with native vegetation. Twisted sycamores, arroyo willows, black cottonwood, red alders, and a few redwoods line the river, and chest-high bush lupines dot the open meadow. Looking behind you to the east, a prominent ridge of the Santa Lucia Range is visible. Composed primarily of granite transported from the south along the San Andreas Fault, the mountain range owes much of its sheer topography to the erosion-resistant nature of its granitic rock. The Creamery is also an excellent area for viewing birdlife—killdeer, black phoebes, and Cooper’s hawks can often be spotted.
Continuing toward the beach, notice the incredibly grizzled redwood tree across the meadow on your left before you turn back toward the river. Then pass thick patches of poison oak and coffeeberry, which is easily identified by the dark black berries that ripen in the fall. Driftwood shelters and other interesting constructs fill this first sandy area where you turn south and begin the beach walk.
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