Polyester and nylon are two commonly used, and recommended, fibers in outdoor clothing. They dry almost instantly, wick moisture effectively, and are of lighter weight than natural fibers. Fleece clothing (made from polyester) provides good insulation and will keep you warm, even when wet. Synthetic materials melt quickly, however, if placed in contact with a heat source (campstove, fire, sparks, and so on). Wool is a good natural fiber for hiking. Even though it retains up to 30% of its weight in water, it still insulates when wet.

      Raingear/Windgear Three types are available: water-resistant, waterproof/breathable, and water-proof/nonbreathable. Water-resistant shells are typically (very) lightweight nylon windbreakers with a water repellent coating that wears away with use. The seams will not be taped. They will often keep you dry for a short period, but they’ll quickly soak through in a heavy rain.

      Waterproof/breathable shells contain Gore-Tex or an equivalent layer or coating and effectively keep liquid water out while allowing water vapor (that is, your sweat) to pass through. They breathe reasonably well until the outer fabric becomes saturated, at which point the breath-ability is lost and you will still get sticky and wet on the inside.

      Waterproof/nonbreathable shells are typically coated nylon or rubber and keep water out but hold all your sweat in. Seams must be taped for them to be completely waterproof. Although wearing these on a strenuous hike causes a hot and sticky experience, they can be cheap and very lightweight. All three options effectively block the wind.

      Keeping Your Head and Neck Warm Your body will strive to keep your torso, neck, and head a constant temperature at all times. Without any insulation, the heat coursing through your neck to your brain radiates into the air and is lost. Warmth that might have been directed to your extremities instead replaces the heat lost from your head. A thin balaclava or warm hat and neck gaiter are small items, weigh little, and are more effective at keeping you warm than an extra fleece.

      Keeping Your Hands Warm Hiking in cold and damp conditions will often chill your hands unpleasantly. A lightweight pair of synthetic liner gloves will do wonders.

      Backpacking Equipment

      Backpack For overnight trips, a pack with a capacity of between 40 and 50 liters (roughly 2,500–3,000 cubic inches) is generally necessary, though dedicated ultralight hikers with the most compact and lightweight gear can get away with less. For longer trips, a pack with 60 liters (approximately 3,700 cubic inches) or more is recommended.

      Just like footwear, the most important feature of a pack is a good fit. A properly fitting backpack allows you to carry most of the weight on your hips and lower body, sparing the easily fatigued muscles of the shoulders and back. When trying on packs, loosen the shoulder straps, position the waist belt so that the top of your hips (the bony iliac crest) is in the middle of the belt, attach and cinch the waist belt, and then tighten the shoulder straps. The waist belt should fit snugly around your hips, with no gaps. The shoulder straps should rise slightly off your body before dipping back down to attach to the pack about an inch below your shoulders—no weight should be resting on the top of your shoulders, and you should be able to shrug them freely. Most packs will have load stabilizer straps that attach to the pack behind your ears and lift the shoulder straps upward, off your shoulders. A sternum strap links the two shoulder straps together across your chest and prevents them from slipping away from your body.

      Keep your pack’s center of gravity as close to your middle and lower back as possible. Heavy items should go against the back, becoming progressively lighter as you pack outward and upward. Do not place heavy items at or below the level of the hip belt—this greatly diminishes your ability to carry that weight on the lower body.

      Sleeping Bag Nights are surprisingly cool to cold in Northern California, especially at higher elevations. A sleeping bag rated to 20 degrees is recommended for all-purpose use, though a model rated to 0 degrees is often a better option in the spring and fall seasons or for people who prefer extra warmth.

      Down sleeping bags offer the best warmth-to-weight ratio, are incredibly compressible, and will easily last 5–10 years without losing much of their warmth. However, untreated down loses all of its insulating ability when wet and takes forever to dry—a concern during long rainy spells. Some sleeping bags now offer water-resistant down, which reduces this risk.

      Synthetic-fill sleeping bags retain their insulating abilities even when wet and are cheaper, but weigh more and are bulkier. Keep in mind that synthetic-fill bags lose some of their loft and warmth after a few seasons of use.

      Sleeping Pad Sleeping pads offer vital comfort and insulation from the cold ground. Inflatable foam-filled pads are the most compact and comfortable to sleep on, but they’re expensive and mildly time-consuming to inflate and deflate. Basic foam pads are lightweight, cheap, and practically indestructible. For three-season hiking, virtually all versions provide adequate insulation from the ground. Comfort makes the call.

      Tent/Shelter Rains are infrequent during the Northern California summer—especially in the Sierra Nevada and Modoc Plateau—and there’s often nothing to keep you from sleeping directly under the stars at night. Thunderstorms do occur but are usually short-lived, plus morning dew can be heavy at times, but in general a tent is optional during the summer season in many locations. (A small tarp for an emergency shelter is always worth carrying.)

      Due to fog and wind, a tent is always advisable along the coast and in the wetter regions of northwest California. In winter and spring, a tent is essential across the state, while fall offers the greatest variability in weather, depending on your location.

      If you prefer to carry a tent for shelter and privacy, a lightweight three-season tent is usually recommended. These days, a two-person backpacking tent typically weighs between 3.5 and 5 pounds. As a general rule, the lighter they are, the less spacious they are.

      A rain fly that extends to the ground on all sides is critically important for staying dry. Leaks are typically caused by water seeping through unsealed seams or contact between a wet rain fly and the tent body. Seal any untaped seams that are directly exposed to the rain or to water running off the fly, paying close attention to the floor corners of the tent body. Pitch the tent as tautly as possible to prevent a wet and saggy rain fly from touching the tent body.

      Stability in wind is enhanced by pole intersections—the more poles and the more times they cross, the stronger the tent will be in blustery conditions. Placing a tarp between the tent floor and the ground will not only protect the floor from ground moisture and wear and tear, but it also will increase the lifespan of your tent. Most tents these days have an optional footprint with dimensions that exactly match the floor—a nice accessory.

      Ultralight floorless shelters are a weight-saving option and often use trekking poles for support. They can save a pound or more of weight, but come with some sacrifices, including decreased bug resistance and the need to pitch them in an appropriate site that will not allow rainwater to run underneath.

      Cooking Equipment A stove is necessary if you want hot food on the trail. Three types are available. Canister stoves run on a pressurized butane–propane blend. Simply attach the stove burner to the fuel canister, turn the knob, and light. Such stoves are simple, safe, cheap, and have an adjustable flame. Their safety and simmerability make them a good choice for summer backpacking. However, the canisters can be hard to find outside of outdoor-equipment stores, are expensive and hard to recycle, do not work below freezing, and heat very slowly when less than a quarter full.

      Alcohol stoves are compact, extremely lightweight, and a popular choice for long-distance hikers. The fuel is readily available but burns much less hot than butane–propane blends or white gas and takes notably longer to boil water.

      Liquid fuel stoves run on white gas contained in a self-pressurized tank or bottle. White gas is inexpensive, burns hot, is widely available around the world, and works in extremely cold conditions. However, you must work directly with liquid fuel to prime the stove, adding an element of danger. Liquid fuel stoves are also expensive, produce flames that are prone to flaring