Diving in Southeast Asia. David Espinosa
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A mixed school of butterflyfish and oriental sweetlips hang in mild current above Tulamben’s Coral Garden.
Dancing shrimp in Seraya Secret. Their distinctive green eyes are quite spectacular.
The hull, which is encrusted in hard corals and covered in soft corals of purple, red and yellow, has broken down over time and now offers divers the opportunity to swim through the ribs of the ship without the need for any penetration, as most of the wreck is open and offers direct access to the surface. The wreck is simply a wonderful place to dive, as there are hundreds of species of fish. Schooling fish are not uncommon here at quiet times and occasional reef sharks and stingrays also come to rest in the shadows cast by the vessel. Most of the medium sized fish have become semi-tame, and will literally swarm a diver in the shallows. Smaller treasures, like nudibranchs and tiny cuttlefish can be found on the wreck itself and on the black sand that surrounds it. The Liberty remains a wonderful place to dive, and it has recovered nicely from the El Niño bleaching, but with more divers visiting it, more than ever it is essential to be cautious.
BEYOND THE WRECK
Should you want to take a break from the wreck, the coral Tulamben Wall/Drop-off begins on the opposite end of the beach. Divers enter the wall from a somewhat protected nook, swim down a small sand embankment and over to the wall, which drops from 5 meters to 60 plus.
The wall does not host huge numbers of fish but has a decent variety. The wall ends in a ridge 100 meters from the starting point, and becomes a steep slope.
Further south from the Drop-off, Seraya Secret, which features numerous shrimps, nudibranchs and all manner of critters, is a muck diving fanatics must see site. Seraya Secret is a black sand slope around a 20-minute boat ride south from Pantai Drop-off and the entry point is just in front of the Markisa Resort (also their house reef). The slope hosts only sporadic rocks, hard corals and anemones but do not let this put you off as critters of all types can be found here, from harlequin shrimps, different species of lionfish, leaf scorpionfish, ghost pipefish and an abundance of different nudibranch species. For macro lovers and photographers with a keen eye, this can be one of Tulamben’s most rewarding dives.
—David Espinosa/Kal Muller/Sarah Ann Wormald
This small spotfin frogfish is one of several frogfish species encountered around Bali.
Nusa Penida
Abundant Pelagics and Fierce Currents
Access 5–30 minutes from Lembongan, up to 1.5 hours from Bali
Current Good to great; 20+ meters
Reef type Moderate to very strong. Currents are unpredictable, often fierce. Seasonally cold water
Highlights Very good variety of hard corals; excellent stand of Dendronephthya
Visibility Drop-offs, steep slopes
Coral Excellent variety; many pelagics
Fish Large schools of all kinds of fish; very large hawksbill turtles. Site also hosts sharks, mantas and even oceanic sunfish
Nusa Penida, across the Badung Strait from Bali’s southern tip, offers some of the best diving to be found anywhere. But conditions around Penida and its two smaller sister islands—Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan—can sometimes be difficult, with cold water and unpredictable currents reaching four or more knots.
CORAL WALLS AND PELAGICS
Most of the dive spots are along the north coast of Nusa Penida and around the channel between Nusa Penida and Nusa Ceningan, the exceptions being the two manta ray sites on the south coast of Nusa Penida. The standard reef profile here has a terrace at 8–12 meters, then a steep slope to 30–40 meters. From there the bottom slopes gently to the seabed at 600 meters plus. Pinnacles, ledges and large bommie formations are often encountered. At 35–40 meters, long anti-patharian wire corals are common, spiraling outward more than 2–3 meters. Pelagics are the main attraction, and you have a good chance to see jackfish, mackerel and tuna. Reef sharks were once common, but are now likely to be found deeper. Mantas are frequently seen feeding at Manta Bay and cleaning at Manta Point. The most unusual pelagic visitor is undeniably the bizarre, 2-meter-long mola mola or ocean sunfish. During the late summer months, this mysterious large flattened fish with elongated dorsal and ventral fins is spotted at several sites along Nusa Penida’s north coast and at Crystal Bay.
Along Nusa Penida’s north coast the currents sometimes flow quickly but divers will marvel at the variety and numbers of fish and the magnificent colors of the healthy hard and soft corals, colors that are accentuated by the stunning gin-clear visibility. Guests typically enter the water over the drop-off and descend directly down the slope. Large schools of blue triggerfish and unicorn-fish crowd the various bommies scattered across the slope. The topography does not vary hugely from site to site, so if the current is running—and it can often top 3 knots—divers can duck behind the large bommies to wait for stray buddies or divemasters! Divers won’t be the only ones to seek shelter, as often sweetlips, fusiliers and turtles can be seen resting in the lee of these bommies.
Large manta rays gather at Manta Point off Nusa Penida for cleaning.
TOYAPAKEH
One of the most commonly dived and most popular dives in Nusa Penida when conditions are right is around the corner from Sekolah Dasar, near the platform where the big Quick Silver daytripper boat ties up. While there are not enough superlatives to describe Toyapakeh, it can also be one of the most tricky sites to dive for the currents that rip through the strait here are sometimes fast and furious. (Warning: If dived at the wrong time, the currents can carry unwary divers out into the surrounding ocean.)
If judged correctly, these currents bring with them big schools of fish, sea turtles, occasionally mola molas and dozens of fusiliers and sweetlips that swarm the healthy colorful pillars in various places. At rare periods of slack current, guests can make their way under the platform where large jacks feed, or sit back in 5 meters of water and watch as thousands of smaller anthias and basslets play. If making only one dive on Nusa Penida, Toyapakeh is an excellent choice and get ready for the ride of your life!
—Kal Muller/David Espinosa/Sarah Ann Wormald
Sunfish are seen seasonally (July–October) around Nusa Penida.
Koran angelfish (Pomacanthus Semicirculatus) aka semi-circle angelfish are found at all Nusa Penida dive sites.
Hard corals such as these branching corals attract schools of Klein’s butterflyfish on the reef tops around Nusa Penida.
Amed
Wall and Muck Diving in Northeast Bali
Access Beach; 5 minutes by small boat
Current Fair to good, 15–25 meters
Reef type Mild, up to 2 knots
Highlights Hard corals good deep
Visibility Coastal reef; flats, slope and wall
Coral Excellent numbers, superb variety
Fish Density of fish on the deep