Kittens begin socializing from birth by interacting with their littermates.

      Socialization is a term that you may associate more with dogs than with cats, but for any animal living with humans, socializing can ease stress and make life more pleasant for all parties. Here’s an example with the wolves at the Wolf Park canid research and education facility in Battle Ground, Indiana. The wolves are handled daily from the time they are born, and the staff uses rewards to teach the wolves to allow, and enjoy, human contact. That means that when a wolf needs veterinary care, he is calm and unafraid around the staff and the veterinarian, and he doesn’t need to be sedated or restrained for treatment.

      While that’s an extreme example, the principle is the same for your cat. The more people and things that your cat safely encounters as a kitten, the calmer, happier, and less stressed he will be in strange situations as an adult.

      Many animals are touchy about having their feet handled, and cats are no exception. After all, a cat with an injured paw or leg is not going to be able to hunt effectively or to escape enemies. Gently handle your kitten’s paws. Touch each one. Speak softly and offer tiny treats. Little bits of deli turkey are popular with most cats. Practice applying gentle pressure to extend the claws. If your kitten resists, don’t force the issue—just try again later.

      Gentle petting and handling help socialize a kitten to humans.

      When your kitten is OK with having his paws handled, try to clip a nail or two. Stop while your kitten is still relaxed—“make haste slowly” is the rule. Eventually, you should be able to clip his nails without a major fight.

      Check your kitten’s ears and acclimate him to having his ears touched. This may come in handy if you ever have to administer ear drops.

      Also accustom your kitten to being held gently but firmly. Slide your hand under the kitten, with your hand cradling his body, a couple of fingers between his front legs, and the other fingers around his body. When he’s bigger, use your other hand to support his hindquarters. Have other people hold and handle your kitten, too. You want him to accept strangers handling him. It will make veterinary visits much more pleasant.

      As previously discussed, show children the proper way to hold and pet a cat. Teach them not to pull the cat’s tail or poke his ears or eyes.

      Try not to step on your cat. That may sound obvious, but kittens and small cats aren’t always on a person’s radar, and a cat who gets stepped on may start to distrust all humans and decide that the best offense is a good defense.

      Let your cat explore safely. You might not want him walking across your kitchen counter, but put away the breakables and let him wander the mantel or climb the bookcase as long as it’s stable and in no danger of falling over when a cat’s weight hits it. If your cat is still a kitten, definitely supervise. You don’t want a kitten getting trapped someplace or getting injured.

      Cats tend to be neglected when it comes to veterinary appointments. That’s because, frequently, cats are hard to transport. Many dogs like car rides, or can at least be lifted into the car without too much struggle, but cats tend to protest, often in the form of claws out and fangs bared. Get your kitten used to a carrier when he is young. If you’ve adopted an adult cat, follow the same procedure. It may take a bit longer with an adult than with a kitten, so be patient.

      Put a comfy blanket or pillow in the carrier and set the carrier on a chair or table. Most cats like high places, so your cat may be more inclined to explore, and enter, the carrier if it’s not on the floor. If your kitten is too young or too small to safely climb up to the carrier, leave the carrier on the floor. If you can remove the carrier door, do it; otherwise, fasten it so that it can’t accidentally close on the cat.

      Feed your cat in the carrier. If you feed both wet and dry cat food, feed the wet food only in the carrier. If your cat enjoys a particular treat, offer it only in the carrier. At intervals during the day, you might even lure your cat into the carrier with a small piece of deli turkey.

      Do this for at least two weeks, or longer if needed. You’re the best judge of when to move on to the next step, but remember that this is a slow process. Rushing it will only postpone the desired results.

      When your cat seems completely comfortable in and around the carrier, shut the door while the cat is eating. Open it and let the cat out as soon as he has finished his meal. Gradually increase the time he’s in the carrier with the door closed. You can offer him treats through the door grate to help keep him calm. While your cat may never love the carrier, he should at least be willing to get into it, making any car trip more pleasant. If he panics at any time, you’ve gone too fast, so back up a little in your training.