Popular Amphibians. Philippe De Vosjoli
Читать онлайн книгу.
sub-species and varieties, and A. gracilis).
Foreground Plants
Plants for the tank foreground must be small so that they do not block the view. Most commonly used species spread by runners and form a short, green, growing carpet. The best is dwarf Sagittaria sp., which performs exceptionally well in my tanks. Dwarf sword plants (E. tenellus and E. quadricostatus) require more light but also thrive. The smallest of the genus Cryptocoryne, such as the dwarf forms of C. nevillii and C. wendtii, are good choices and eventually give the appearance of a tall grass field. Although there are many other good foreground plants sold in aquarium stores, most require bright lights and are unsuitable for a majority of the amphibians covered here.
More Underwater Plants
Two great low-light plants that thrive with aquatic amphibians under a variety of conditions are Java moss (Vesicularia dubyana) and Java fern. Both are varieties of epiphytes (plants that grow on other plants) and flourish if attached to wood or porous rock with fishing line or black thread. They make outstanding background or middle-ground plants. To remain looking its best, Java fern requires regular removal of old sections and replanting with new growth because the leaves have a limited lifespan. Because it is fast growing, Java moss needs to be harvested on a regular basis to prevent it from invading the entire habitat. The African water fern (Bolbitis heudeloti) is another underwater fern that is readily available and sports attractive cut leaves. It also grows best when attached to wood in the tank.
The aquatic section of this floating frog setup shows various aquatic plants. This enclosure would also be ideal for various newts.
Filtration
To filter shallow water, use a sponge (foam) filter that is powered by an air pump, readily available in most specialized aquarium and reptile stores. Plastic foam filters perform consistently well in both small and large tanks. My personal favorites of the commercial products are the Tetra Billi sponge filters. These units are powered by air pumps, with the plastic sponge acting as a mechanical filter (trapping fine particulate matter in its cells) and as a biological filter (with the bacteria colonizing the cell spaces and breaking down ammonia and nitrites). Generally, you should provide filtration with at least an air-powered sponge filter whenever water is deep enough (3 inches minimum if you cut down the outlet tube).
Foam filters are my first choice for large tanks (I use large custom units equipped with power heads), but I also recommend an external power filter that combines mechanical (foam pad), chemical (activated carbon), and biological (e.g., biowheels) filtration. These filters prove particularly useful for tanks containing large amphibians that eat large amounts and quickly foul their water, such as axolotls and African clawed frogs. If using a sponge filter, cut back the outlet using a fine saw so it is just below the water surface.
Air pump-driven sponge filters are inexpensive and very effective filters for water sections of gravel bed vivaria. Remove the sponge filter every one to two weeks and squeeze the waste into a bucket of water. Do not try to thoroughly clean or rinse the sponge filter because its effectiveness comes from the bacteria colonizing the foam cells. In deeper shoreline tanks with at least 2.5 inches of water, you can use thin motor-driven submersible filters.
This sponge filter has an outlet stem cut to accommodate the shallow depth of a shoreline vivarium. Sponge filters are powered by aquarium air pumps and are ideal for shoreline vivaria and smaller aquaria.
In larger setups, use a miniature water pump with the outflow tube pouring over the gravel layer, which serves as a biological filter bed. Because water pumps generate heat, they are not recommended in small setups due to the risk of overheating the water.
Biological Filtration
Biological filtration is a process whereby biological organisms remove or neutralize waste matter, pollutants, or toxins from a liquid, usually water. In closed systems, such as aquaria and vivariums, the process usually refers to filtration by nitrifying bacteria, which break down ammonia (NH3) from animal waste into nitrite (NO2) and then nitrite into nitrate (NO3). Nitrate is less toxic to animals than ammonia or nitrite but can still accumulate to toxic levels unless water is changed on a regular basis. Most aquarium biological filters aim to provide high surface areas on which these nitrifying bacteria can attach and form biofilms. Plants can also play a role in biological filtration by providing surface areas and utilizing ammonia as a nutrient.
Miniature submersible power filters can be very effective in shoreline vivaria and smaller aquaria. This small unit has effectively filtered the water section in a 4- by 2-foot shoreline setup for three years.
A small water pump carries water from the water section over and through the gravel section of this shoreline vivarium. Sponge filters are powered by aquarium air pumps and are ideal for shoreline vivaria and smaller aquaria.
Lighting
For aquarium illumination and plant health, use two fluorescent bulbs running the length of the tank. For species that tolerate higher temperatures, such as floating frogs and clawed frogs, use incandescent lighting. I have had success growing certain aquatic plants (such as Sagittaria spp., Cryptocoryne spp., elodea, Java moss, Java fern, and horn-wort) using a single 20-watt halogen bulb in small 2-gallon tanks housing dwarf underwater frogs and floating frogs.
Heating
Most of the species in this book do well at cool to moderate room temperatures, so additional heating is not required. Some exceptions are floating frogs and clawed frogs, which prefer higher temperatures (in the upper 70s° F).
In setups using incandescent or halogen bulbs, the heat generated by these bulbs is usually enough to maintain desired temperatures. If not, try submersible aquarium heaters with built-in thermostatic controls, available in a range of wattage and sizes. Estimate approximately 5 watts per gallon.
Aging
Everyone working with planted aquaria finds that there is an aging cycle. Initially, problems are common because biological cycles have not yet been established. It takes three to six weeks for conditions to stabilize. This time frame allows nitrifying bacteria to build up to high enough levels that ammonia and nitrites are broken down. It also takes at least six weeks for plants to establish by anchoring into the substrate and increasing root mass and body mass. Once they spread their roots and achieve a certain density, aquatic plants effectively take nutrients from the water, limiting food available for algae.
A ventral view of a floating frog shows the tubercled and intricately textured belly.
After this biological balance sets in, the tank takes a sudden turn. The water suddenly becomes clearer and the algae level starts to drop. A key to balancing a planted aquarium is the number of plants. As an example, I originally had two axolotls, a Hong Kong fire-bellied newt, and various fish in a 29-gallon, sparsely planted tank, and it worked well for two years. I added two axolotls, and in time, the plants, the inner surfaces of the tank, and the substrate became covered with algae. Determined to solve the problem biologically, I removed one axolotl, which led to a slight improvement—slowed growth of algae—but the problem persisted. I doubled the number of plants in the setup. Within a few weeks, the algae cleared and the tank was in equilibrium. The same pattern occurred with my tanks of paddle-tailed newts. I had a chronic problem with algae until I added plants and a couple of American flag fish, a species that is very effective at controlling hair