CHAPTER 1:

      GENERAL INFORMATION: BEFORE YOU BUY

       Climate

      Tortoises originate from temperate climates, such as Europe and Russia; from semi-arid regions, such as East Africa; and from humid tropical climates, such as Southeast Asia and West Africa. When selecting a tortoise, consider whether you will be able to provide the optimal conditions required for its care. To a significant degree, this will depend on the climate in which you live. In several regions of the United States, you can keep various tortoise species outdoors during part of the year. For example, red-footed tortoises, yellow-footed tortoises, and elongated tortoises can be successfully kept and bred outdoors in south Florida with relatively little investment in their facilities. African spurred and leopard tortoises are successfully kept and bred outdoors year-round in Southern California and Arizona, as long as they have access to heated shelters during the cold and wet days of winter. Temperate-climate tortoises require a cool down period in the winter in order to breed and remain healthy. If you live in an area with cool winters, it will be easier to meet this requirement. When selecting a tortoise, you must consider your ability to provide suitable facilities and to keep the animals outdoors during at least part of the year.

      If you cannot keep tortoises outdoors, you must simulate the essential features of their environment indoors. This requires adequate space, landscaping, artificial lights, heating systems, and, in some cases, cooling systems.

       Size

      All tortoises require space in order to thrive, so it is critical that you choose a species of appropriate size. One of the hardiest and most readily available species is the African spurred tortoise (Geochelone sulcata), which is now bred by the thousands in the United States. These tortoises have a lot going for them, including looks and personality, but they quickly grow into large pets. Adults require an enclosure equivalent to a room measuring 12 feet by 12 feet, and a larger enclosure is preferable. Although they don’t grow quite as quickly, leopard tortoises (Geochelone pardalis) also require the equivalent of a large portion of a room—at least an 8-foot by 8-foot enclosure—as adults. Anything smaller is inhumane and could threaten their health and long-term survival. Small species, such as pancake tortoises, star tortoises, Egyptian tortoises, and the European tortoises, are better choices for owners with limited space.

      Most tortoises, like this pair of spurred tortoises, will eventually eat out of your hands.

       Hardiness

      Some tortoises are more difficult to keep than others. For example, star tortoises (Geochelone elegans) and forest hingeback tortoises (Kinixys erosa) are best left to experienced tortoise keepers because they tend to be more delicate and require more precise care. On the other hand, Russian tortoises, captive-bred European tortoises, African spurred tortoises, and leopard tortoises are generally good choices for beginners. In warm regions such as south Florida, red-footed tortoises are also a good choice.

       Personality

      As any experienced tortoise keeper will inform you, tortoises have varying personalities; some are shy, some are outgoing, some are aggressive, and others are rather impassive. Every once in a while, you may find an exceptional animal that surprises you with its responsiveness and intelligence. Nonetheless, some generalizations can be made.

      Red-footed tortoises are attractive, personable, and reasonably hardy. Owners must provide proper heating and at least 70 percent relative humidity.

      Some commonly available and fairly inexpensive species rank high in personality. Greek tortoises and Russian tortoises tend to be very personable and alert. They will rush to get food, and most will eventually eat out of your hands and climb on your shoes to beg. Red-footed tortoises have pleasant, outgoing personalities—among the best, if that is what you want. African spurred tortoises are intelligent and personable, to a degree, but they often remain somewhat wary. Occasional individuals can be very friendly animals. Leopard tortoises are moderately personable, but they tend to be relatively indifferent to their human owners. Hingeback tortoises also don’t have very interactive personalities. On the other hand, Burmese brown tortoises usually do. Galapagos tortoises, though expensive, actually like to be petted and rank among the most personable tortoises. Aldabras, however, another large species of tortoise, are not nearly as friendly and have been described as dull.

      Of course, there are always exceptions to any rule. For the most part, you will reap what you sow. When you obtain a baby tortoise, encourage interaction. Regularly attempt gentle physical contact by petting its head or neck area and hand-feeding it on occasion. These techniques will provide an environment for the more interactive and extroverted side of your tortoise’s personality to emerge.

      Mature spurred tortoises have numerous growth rings on their cara-pace. As they age, tortoises generate new shell at the outer edges of their scutes.

       Longevity

      Tortoises rank among the longest lived land vertebrates. The oldest Greek tortoise (Testudo graeca) on record lived for 127 years. The large Galapagos (Geochelone elephantopus) and Aldabras (Geochelone gigantea) tortoises can live more than 100 years. There is a twenty-five year record for the pancake tortoise and thirty-year record for the leopard tortoise. Red-footed and hingeback tortoises can live more than twenty years. In short, tortoises have the potential for long lives.

       Wild-Caught versus Captive-Bred Tortoises

      As a rule, captive-bred tortoises are a better bet than wild-caught animals. Most importantly, they are less likely to be parasitized or diseased. You will also know their age and something about their background. Captive-raised tortoises also tend to breed more readily than wild-caught animals, which may take several years to establish a reproductive pattern. The only possible drawback to captive-bred animals is that hatchlings of several species can be delicate and may require optimal conditions. In most cases, it is worthwhile for the beginning tortoise keeper to pay extra for larger and older captive-bred animals (at least six months to a year old). On the other hand, meticulous attention to captive conditions and diet allows most herpetoculturists to successfully raise baby tortoises.

      For experienced keepers, wild-caught tortoises can provide an increased and more diversified genetic pool for captive-breeding. However, experience is generally required to deparasitize and establish wild-caught tortoises. Because all tortoise species are threatened, we should make a concerted effort to reduce commercial exploitation of adult wild-caught tortoises and to develop herpetocultural systems for captive-propagation.

      Whenever possible, purchase captive-bred tortoises, such as these hatchling African spurred tortoises, instead of imported specimens. They are healthier, hardier, and less problematic.

      CHAPTER 2:

      GUIDELINES FOR SELECTING HEALTHY ANIMALS

      Once you have selected a species that you think you will be able to accommodate, the next step is to find a healthy specimen. An experienced breeder will be able to provide first-hand information on successfully raising the species in question. Captive-bred tortoises are commonly available through specialized reptile stores, breeders, and reptile shows. Periodicals such as Reptiles and Reptiles USA contain advertising that can help you find tortoise breeders. Turtle and tortoise societies are also good sources of information. Whenever possible, it is best to buy an animal that you are able to examine before purchase, rather than obtaining one sight-unseen by mail order. However, there are many reputable reptile dealers

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