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potential before planting

      Below are things to think about before your next shopping trip and plant purchases. When you’re at the nursery, dazzled by the array to choose from, you’ll be glad you did your research beforehand.

       Growth habit. Plants for home gardeners are typically sold in two- three- five- and ten-gallon containers – even for large trees and shrubs that will reach great heights and widths. You should not be confused or mislead by their enticing and attractive grow containers and petite size at the nursery. At the time of planting, position and install your new plantings based on its mature growth potential. The height and width at maturity (full grown) is on the plant label. It is very important to allow enough space for a plant to “fill in” – typically three years.

       Plant characteristics. If you are looking for year-round interest, winter interest, seasonal bloomers, textures, or all of the above, research a plant’s characteristics to ensure you are getting what you want and serving your desired outcome.

       Form. The shape of a plant in its container is a good indicator of the shape the plant will be years later. Examine the entire plant – front, back, sides – to ensure it will look attractive from all angles when planted. Make sure you’re showing off the plant’s “good side.”

       Light requirement. This is so important and not to be compromised. Know how much sunlight you get in different areas of the garden. Something to consider when estimating the number of sunny hours in areas you want to plant. The angle of the sun changes with the seasons and a sunny area in spring (high sun angle) may no longer be sunny in fall (low sun angle) when longer shadows are cast from nearby trees and buildings.

       Full sun: six or more hours of direct sun per day

       Partial sun or partial shade: four to six hours of direct sun per day

       Full shade: less than four hours of direct sun per day

      These Coreopsis love sunlight

       Heat and wind tolerance. What does that mean? An example: a plant that is susceptible to high levels of heat should not be planted in a southern exposure against a potentially hot material structure unless it can, in fact, bear extreme temperatures. Remember, material like stone and brick hold heat and can impact a plant significantly. There are many plants that are heat and/or wind tolerant; in contrast, there are many that are not.

       Drought tolerance. If you garden in a drought-prone region, you need to know if plants can or cannot thrive there. Any good garden center in a drought-prone region should have a good selection of plants that will thrive there. But be aware that you could also see lots of good looking plants that won’t do well once you get them home. A little preshopping research will go a long way.

       Soil preference. Plants that thrive in sandy loam will struggle in heavy clay conditions, and vice-versa. So it’s good to know your soil type and use soil amendments (or don’t) accordingly. When in doubt about what kind of soil you have, you might make a small investment in a do-it-yourself soil test kit, which will let you know the basic components and pH of your soil.

      Most Hostas are shade lovers, with a few exceptions – and they come in a variety of colors

      Plant shopping and trips to the garden center should never be overwhelming. If you do your homework first, the rewards are plentiful! Just don’t forget your shopping list!

      Designing and planning gardens while shopping can be as dangerous (and as tempting) as food shopping with hunger pangs. Both should be avoided!

       Instant Gratification: sometimes necessary but not always recommended

      Sofia was a new client. She and her husband wanted immediate screening (privacy) in their backyard and did not want to wait one second longer. Aside from installing a privacy fence, a mass planting of evergreens was the most practical option for year-round coverage. I explained to the couple that over time the appropriately selected number of plants based on the design would fill in nicely, providing the privacy they wanted. But the operative words were “over time,” and the couple planned to reside at the home for less than five years. They didn’t want to wait for their privacy, so their preference was to plant as many evergreens as possible in the space, for immediate gratification and coverage. Yes, the evergreens will quickly achieve a lush look; they will also eventually become overgrown for the space. I will address the difference between lush and overgrown on page 52, and the consequences of overgrown gardens.

      Evergreens provide privacy, but need time for growth

      I understand the temptation and have experienced the same eagerness for immediate gratification many times myself. But the most satisfying and fulfilling part of second-half-of-life gardening is building into it the anticipation of what’s coming next. The beauty and reality Mother Nature delivers requires no hurrying, pushing or prodding. Waiting is a lovely way to capture and appreciate what is truly happening in a garden – patiently allowing for a plant to reach its maturity and potential in its own time. It’s a gardener’s reward for a job well done.

       Three Sustainable Practices for a Garden in Sync with Nature

      Here is a starter list of sustainable practices to make life simpler in the garden. I’ll dig deeper with you as we go along.

      1. Reduce weeds by creating heavily planted garden beds. If you walk your gardens, you will notice weeds are usually prolific where plants are not growing. Amazingly, very few weeds grow under a plant. Don’t be shy – fill up your garden beds with the right plant in the right place. You’ll be pleased with the end result and how much time you have to spare! Concerned about overcrowding? Don’t be. There’s such a thing as “crowded but lush” (if that sounds like an oxymoron, I’ll show you what I mean on page 52).

      2. Make the most of your water. We all know that water is a precious resource and getting more precious every day. A few ways to hold onto that water:

      ~ Concaved or flat garden beds. They soak up water very well, but steep garden beds do not. Here’s an example: Berms (raised garden beds) allow you to control the soil and drainage of a new garden bed, which is good. Steep berms (as seen here), however, are not good because water runs off and encourages erosion. Steep berms can be risky business because plants will not absorb the water necessary to develop healthy root systems. An ideal practice when building a berm is to flatten out the top so water can drain down through the soil and not run off. It is also a good practice to create a “mulch well” around newly planted trees and shrubs. The mulch well holds in the water, allowing it to drain down through the root

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