Top Trails: Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. Andrew Dean Nystrom

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Top Trails: Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks - Andrew Dean Nystrom


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access and little shade, but it’s only a mile from Fairy Falls, and you can even bicycle the first mile from the trailhead. Nearby site OD5 at Goose Lake is even more accessible as a disabled-access site. Rangers release the site to the able-bodied public after 4 p.m. on the day of use.

      Just under 3 miles from the trailhead near Lone Star Geyser (Trail 29), campsite OA1 also includes the option to cycle the majority of the way to a pleasant overnight setting. To avoid the possibility of sharing the site with stock parties, you can head nearly 0.5 mile farther along the lovely Upper Firehole River to hiker-only campsite OA2.

      If you’re really looking to escape the frontcountry hubbub and see what Yellowstone looked like before the 1988 fires, head for Cascade Corner and Bechler Meadows. Boy Scout troops have long recognized the beauty of the region, so you won’t be alone, but you will be surrounded by beautiful, lush country at hiker-only campsite 9B1, 3.4 flat miles from the trailhead. This route gets you into the heart of the wildlife-rich meadows while avoiding tricky stream crossings. If your family is up for a longer two-night loop, equally appealing campsite 9C1 is only 0.5 mile farther along.

      In Grand Teton, a series of three campsites fronting the east shore of Leigh Lake (Trail 40) is about 3 flat miles in from the String Lake Picnic Area trailhead. Swimming is a joy after the water temperatures rise a bit in July, and boating is popular.

      The Hermitage Point Loop (Trail 37) features Grand Teton’s next most accessible, low-elevation backcountry campsite. It’s 4.5 nearly flat miles from the trailhead in Colter Bay via the most direct route, or 4.9 miles via a more scenic route heading west along the lakeshore, for a total of 9.4 miles for the full loop. It can get windy, but the Teton views are fantastic. It’s technically a group site, but rangers at Colter Bay will book it for nongroups.

      Unfortunately, the campsite fronting the north shore of Bradley Lake (Trail 35) is available only to backpackers doing multiday loop trips. Nearby, the rustic bunks at the Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch (see page 276) could be a fun way to rough it without fully camping out.

      Backcountry Use Permits are available at most ranger stations and dedicated backcountry offices. Permits cost $3 per person per night, up to a maximum fee of $25 per year. Popular backcountry sites at Heart Lake, the Black Canyon of the Yellowstone, and Shoshone Lake book up quickly, so make reservations or come with a flexible itinerary. You will need to watch a video on backcountry safety. Part of your permit goes in the car you park at the trailhead, while the main permit goes with you in your pack or on your tent. Contact the main backcountry office and consult the Backcountry Trip Planner (see above) for updates.

      In Yellowstone, trailheads are sometimes referred to on maps (and in this book, where applicable) by an alphanumeric naming system, such as “Lone Star (OK1)”; a complete list of these trailhead names appears in the Backcountry Trip Planner.

      Grand Teton has a similar backcountry permit system but has fewer specific numbered sites, using instead camping zones in the alpine canyons, where backpackers can choose a site within their designated zone. One-third of sites can be reserved January 1–May 15 by mail or fax, or online in real time at recreation.gov. The remaining sites are available to walk-ins no more than a day in advance. Permits cost $25 each ($35 for an advance reservation), regardless of the number of people or nights. You must pick up your permit by 10 a.m. on the day of departure. Backcountry offices at both Yellowstone and Grand Teton accept debit and credit cards, as well as cash.

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      Dunanda Falls (Trail 27)

      CREDIT: Bradley Mayhew

      Every outing should begin with proper preparation, which usually takes only a few minutes. Even the easiest trail can turn up unexpected surprises. People seldom think about getting lost or injured, but unexpected things can and do happen. Simple precautions can make the difference between a good story and a miserable outcome.

      Use the Top Trails ratings and descriptions to determine if a particular trail is a good match with your fitness and energy level, given current conditions and time of year.

      Choose Wisely The first step to enjoying any trail, no matter the activity or the degree of difficulty, is to match the trail to your abilities. It’s no use overestimating your fitness or experience—know your abilities and limitations, and use the Top Trails difficulty rating that accompanies each trail.

      Leave Word About Your Plans The most basic of precautions is leaving word of your intentions with friends or family. Many people will hike the backcountry their entire lives without ever relying on this safety net, but establishing this simple habit is free insurance.

      It’s best to leave specific information—location, trail name, intended time of travel—with a responsible person. However, if this is not possible or if plans change at the last minute, you should still leave word. If there is a registration process available, use it. If there is a ranger station, trail register, or visitor center, check in.

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       Prepare and Plan

      • Know your abilities and your limitations.

      • Leave word about your plans.

      • Know the area and the route.

      Review the Route Before embarking on any hike, read the entire description, and study the map. It isn’t necessary to memorize every detail, but it is worthwhile to have a clear mental picture of the trail and general area.

      If the trail or terrain is complex, augment the trail guide with a topographic map. Maps and current weather and trail-condition information are available from local ranger stations and backcountry offices, so use these resources (see Appendix).

      Proper preparation for any type of trail use includes gathering the essential items you will carry. The checklist will vary tremendously by trail and conditions.

      Clothing When the weather is good, light, comfortable clothes are the obvious choice. It’s easy to believe that little in the way of spare clothing is needed, but a prepared hiker has something tucked away for the unexpected, ranging from a surprise shower to an emergency overnight in more remote areas.

      Clothing includes proper footwear—essential for hiking and backpacking. Running shoes are fine for shorter trails, but if you will be carrying substantial weight or encountering sustained rugged terrain, step up to hiking boots.

      In hot, sunny weather, proper clothing includes a hat, sunglasses, a long-sleeved shirt, and sunscreen. In cooler weather, particularly when it’s wet, carry waterproof outer garments and quick-drying undergarments (avoid cotton). As a general rule, whatever the conditions, bring layers that can be combined or removed to provide comfort and protection from the elements in a wide and unpredictable variety of conditions.

      Water Never set out on a trail without water. At all times, but particularly in warm weather, adequate water is of key importance. Experts recommend at least 2 quarts of water per day. When hiking in heat, a gallon or more may be appropriate. At the extreme, dehydration can be life-threatening. More commonly, inadequate water causes fatigue and muscle aches.

      For most outings, unless the day is very hot or the trail very long, you should plan to carry sufficient water for the entire trail. Unfortunately in North America, natural water sources are questionable, often contaminated with bacteria, viruses, and fertilizers.

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