50 Best Short Hikes: San Diego. Jerry Schad
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5 San Elijo Lagoon
Trailhead Location: Inland from coast between Cardiff and Solana Beach
Trail Use: Hiking, running, dog walking
Distance & Configuration: Up to 4 miles out-and-back on East Basin paths and another 2 miles in West Basin, including Annie’s Canyon Trail
Elevation Range: Sea level to 180' at the top of Annie’s Canyon
Facilities: No facilities at the main trailheads; access to water and restrooms at the lagoon’s nature center on the north shore
Highlights: Five plant communities thrive within a small elevation range; plenty of bird-watching opportunities; unique sandstone slot canyon
DESCRIPTION
A great blue heron ambles on stilt legs across the reed-fringed shallows, stabbing occasionally at subsurface morsels of food. Nearby, a willowy egret glides in for a perfect landing, scattering concentric ripples across the surface of the lagoon. Both species seem oblivious to binocular-toting humans who spy on them—from a comfortable distance.
A scene like this is repeated almost daily at San Elijo Lagoon, centerpiece of the San Elijo Lagoon Ecological Preserve, on public lands jointly administered by the San Elijo Lagoon Conservancy, County of San Diego Parks and Recreation Department, and California Department of Fish and Wildlife.
West of I-5, in the West Basin part of the lagoon, high tides wash over mudflats and mats of salt-tolerant vegetation. Because of the habitat diversity, you can see a dozen kinds of shorebirds on a typical day. In fact, some 300 bird species have been spotted in and around the lagoon over a period of years, and about 300 species of plants have been identified here. In addition to providing world-class birding opportunities, the West Basin also features one of San Diego’s newest hiking venues, Annie’s Canyon Trail, which opened in June 2016 following extensive restoration work. Annie’s Canyon is a truly special place featuring towering sandstone walls; nooks and crannies that host shade-loving native plants; and thrilling, sloping, body-tight squeezes to pass through a rare coastal slot canyon.
The East Basin portion of the lagoon, east of I-5, is a freshwater marsh, supported by runoff from Escondido Creek and La Orilla Creek. Like its western counterpart but typically less visited, the East Basin provides expansive marshland views and great birding of its own.
THE ROUTE
Two significant hiking routes take you along the shores of San Elijo Lagoon. From the Rios Avenue trailhead, you can follow beautiful paths that meander along the West Basin’s south shore. You will stroll by coastal sage scrub vegetation, which looks bright green in winter and spring and drab in summer and fall. You will also walk through groves of eucalyptus and other nonnative trees. Eroded sandstone bluffs half-hidden behind a screen of vegetation provide an impressive backdrop for the placid lagoon. Annie’s Canyon Trail starts approximately 0.5 mile from the trailhead along the southern section of the main loop trail. Turn right and continue south about 70 yards to a signed junction with arrows. The right fork ascends Annie’s Canyon in a counterclockwise loop, steep and narrow in places, and eventually climbs out via a steel ladder through colorful bands of sandstone to reach the viewpoint, followed by a descent on an open and more gradual trail leading back to the junction. Going left reverses this route to the viewpoint. The inner canyon is marked as a one-way loop at the junction sign. Descending from the viewpoint should be avoided during busy periods as there is little room for one person to negotiate the narrowest sections, let alone space to pass another party going the opposite way. Inside the canyon is like visiting another world. Fanciful fingertips (Dudleya edulis) sprout from vertical walls. Scramble up a south-facing cave in the middle upper section for a great view of the inaccessible upper reaches due south. Watch your step, though, as the footing can be slippery here even when wearing hiking boots.
After descending from the viewpoint and returning to the main trail, continue to the right another 0.1 mile where you are approaching the embankment of ever-busy I-5. Though you could turn back here and return to the Rios Avenue trailhead, there is a better option. Take a small trail north, then turn left at the first junction and follow the edge of the lagoon back to the west. This is a great trail for observing ducks and wading birds, especially if you brought along binoculars.
Annie’s Canyon
The second significant hike is an exploration of the lagoon’s East Basin (east of I-5) starting from the south via one of four neighborhood trailheads. A recommended route enters from the end of Santa Helena. After passing an information kiosk, the trail descends gradually on a service road to an intersection with an east-west trail. Turn right to pass through forested stretches of pine and eucalyptus, terminating in 0.5 mile at El Camino Real and the San Orilla trailhead. There is a small parking lot here and picnic tables.
Reverse your route to return to the intersection with the service road, then continue west to reach the best vistas of East Basin. Benches are strategically placed at several vantage points. As you approach I-5 with a few more ups and downs over eroded hills, you come to a T. Turn right to traverse the top of a flood-control dike leading north to the Manchester Avenue pedestrian gate. The dike helps maintain these wetlands and provides great access for up close birding. Turn around at this point to return to Santa Helena by the same route.
The trail connection between the East and West Basins is closed due to highway improvements and is not expected to reopen until 2021, when the project is complete.
Note: If you don’t have much time, you may want to take the short, looping interpretive trail that originates from the San Elijo Lagoon Nature Center on Manchester Avenue, 0.5 mile west of I-5. You’ll enjoy direct access to the north shore of West Basin. It’s the place to go not for exercise, but rather (arguably) for the best chance to see the greatest variety of birds.
TO THE TRAILHEAD
GPS Trailhead Coordinates:
Rios Avenue Trailhead: N33º 0.223' W117º 16.334'
Santa Helena Trailhead: N33º 0.433' W117º 14.863'
To get to the Rios Avenue trailhead, exit I-5 at Lomas Santa Fe Drive (Exit 37) in Solana Beach. Go west 0.8 mile to Rios Avenue, turn right, and continue 0.8 mile north to the end of Rios Avenue and the Rios Avenue trailhead.
To get to the Santa Helena trailhead, exit I-5 at Lomas Santa Fe Drive (Exit 37) in Solana Beach. Go east on Lomas Santa Fe then immediately turn left on Santa Helena. Follow Santa Helena 1.5 miles until it ends at the trailhead.
6 Del Mar Crest & Beach
Trailhead Location: Del Mar
Trail Use: Hiking, running
Distance & Configuration: 5-mile loop
Elevation Range: Sea level to 360'
Facilities: None at the trailhead; water, restaurants, and small shopping plazas in Del Mar en route within the first 2 miles; water and restrooms at Powerhouse Park and Torrey Pines State Beach
Highlights: Pine-dotted canyon vistas and a long stretch of isolated beach
DESCRIPTION
Combining canyon, crest, and sandy strand, this loop hike touches on every natural landscape that the woodsy community of Del Mar has to offer. The tide line scenery along the route is some of the best in San Diego County. Be aware, though, that high tides, particularly in winter, can flood the beach segment of the route. Check tide tables first if you expect to travel along the sand. If the tides do flood the beach, there is a not-as-pleasant alternate route to consider and another choice not to consider.
THE ROUTE