60 Hikes Within 60 Miles: Boston. Lafe Low
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stabilized and, for the most part, the island and its beach looked much like it does today—despite occasional rearranging by ferocious coastal storms.
From the Sandy Point State Reservation parking area behind Bar Head, set out hiking east on the wide path that leads through the dunes to the beach. With the ocean in full view, bear right and, choosing a course through the many boulders, tree trunks, and other often curious tidal detritus, hike south toward the drumlin of Castle Hill, across the bay. You will basically follow the shoreline around here. This is not as much a defined trail as following the land along the shoreline.
The boulders protruding from the sand and sea on the beach east of Bar Head are called Emerson’s Rocks. Encrusted with barnacles and slick with seaweed, the exposed rocks are menacing enough. When hidden by surf at high tide, they have been positively murderous to ships. Between 1772 and 1936, no fewer than 55 ships wrecked off Plum Island. Of these, 10 were dashed to pieces at Emerson Rocks. At least 27 more vessels—schooners, trawlers, and steamers—went down near the mouth of the Merrimack River. The treacherous waters, rocks, and shoals of Ipswich Bay channel claimed at least eight ships as they tried to enter Plum Island Sound from Ipswich Bay over the years.
When bearing west around the end of Sandy Point, take care not to get trapped on the wrong side of a channel as the tide pours in—otherwise, be resigned to getting wet feet and possibly a drenching. You’ll be heading toward the spit of land known as Ipswich Bluffs. Documented finds along this stretch where the wind howls over the finger of upland called Ipswich Bluffs add credence to legends that pirates buried treasure in these parts.
When you reach the tree-covered stretch where the bluffs begin, you should see a sign directing you north, away from the beach, to Stage Island. Take this turn to the right and follow the lightly worn footpath into the shelter of brush. The trail is vague in places but generally cuts a line between the Stage Island estuary and dunes drifted against the western side of the Bar Head drumlin. Even after all manner of human intervention over the years, this area remains wilderness.
Where the Sandy Point Trail reaches the iron gate by a parking area beside upland and beach, cross the pavement, bearing left to follow the drive back to the entrance of the Sandy Point State Reservation.
This area was first populated in the mid-1600s, following the arrival of Reverend Thomas Parker (namesake of the Parker River) and company. Besides good grazing, thatch for roofs, and teeming waterfowl, it contained enormous quantities of beach plums. Soon after, this sliver of land became known as Plum Island. Thankfully, instead of being developed as a resort or residential community, the bulk of the island was conserved as a wildlife refuge and park. In 1943, the Massachusetts Audubon Society sold the 1,600-acre Annie H. Brown Wildlife Sanctuary to the federal government, allowing it to merge with the Parker River National Wildlife Refuge.
NEARBY ATTRACTIONS
Newburyport is steeped in history and remains a vibrant commercial and cultural center with many excellent restaurants and many historic homes listed on the National Register of Historic Places. A locale of unique appeal to boat lovers is Lowell’s Boat Shop (978-388-0162), located in nearby Amesbury. The boat shop opened for business in 1793 and has been producing dories ever since.
For information, schedules, and listings of special events, visit historicnewengland.org.
GPS TRAILHEAD COORDINATES N42° 44.483' W70° 47.733'
DIRECTIONS From Boston, take Storrow Drive east, following signs for US 1 N. Merge onto US 1 N toward Tobin Bridge/Revere. At 15.1 miles, merge onto I-95 N. From I-95, take Exit 57 and travel east on MA 113 to MA 1A S. At the intersection with Rolfe’s Lane, turn left and continue 0.5 mile to the end of that road. Turn right onto Plum Island Turnpike and travel 2 miles, crossing the Sargent Donald Wilkinson Bridge to Plum Island. Take the first right onto Sunset Drive and travel 0.5 mile to the refuge entrance.
9 WORLD’S END
DISTANCE & CONFIGURATION: 3.8-mile double loop
DIFFICULTY: Easy
SCENERY: Spectacular views of the Boston skyline, Hingham Harbor, and the Weir River
EXPOSURE: Partially shaded most of the way, except for parts of the carriage road and the causeway linking the twin drumlins of World’s End
TRAFFIC: Trails are popular but never crowded
TRAIL SURFACE: Packed dirt, mowed grassland, gravel
HIKING TIME: 1.3 hours
ELEVATION: 140' at trailhead, no significant gain
SEASON: Year-round
DRIVING DISTANCE FROM BOSTON COMMON: 15 miles
ACCESS: Sunrise–sunset; free for members of The Trustees of Reservations and children under age 12, $6 for nonmembers. World’s End is managed by The Trustees of Reservations but is also considered part of the Boston Harbor Islands National Park.
MAPS: Available in office at entrance or at tinyurl.com/worldsendmap
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Much of World’s End is accessible by wheelchair, but the Rocky Neck area is not.
FACILITIES: Well-maintained outhouses near parking lot, picnic tables on a hill beside entrance
CONTACT: The Trustees of Reservations, thetrustees.org/places-to-visit, 617-542-7696
LOCATION: Martin’s Lane, Hingham, MA
COMMENTS: The Trustees of Reservations organizes occasional special events, such as evening owl watches. Horseback riding is allowed; the annual permit costs $100. Leashed dogs are welcome.
The scenery at World’s End is breathtakingly beautiful.
EXPLORE A SCENIC PENINSULA, following a trail along the outer rim. The landscaping touches of Frederick Law Olmsted are still apparent, as are signs of the peninsula’s agricultural past.
DESCRIPTION
It’s a good thing the trail surface is primarily hard packed and fairly smooth throughout World’s End because your attention will be captivated by the scenery. The open fields, sweeping hillside, and statuesque trees lining much of the trail are impressive. It feels a bit like A. A. Milne’s Hundred Acre Wood combined with Treasure Island.
The trails are also well-defined and easy to follow. While there are several overlapping loops that all beg exploration, the trail specified here begins at the northeast end of the upper parking lot. This path, the width of a carriage, heads directly into an increasingly dense forest of oak and pine. While most of the trails passing through World’s End are wider carriage roads, these trails are more like true hiking trails. Down a rocky slope to the left, you will catch a glimpse of a marshy bog and an open meadow. Farther along on the right, the trail opens to a marshy shore and a waterway called Porter’s Cove.
The path bends left after the water view and meets a trail splitting to the right. Take this narrower trail to the right and, looking through the eastern-side underbrush, you will see waves lapping at the rocky coast. On the left, pass a freshwater bog populated by ducks. Another fork and a small pond lie just beyond. Stay right, keeping with the water.
There’s never too much elevation gain on these trails. As you come around to face north, you get a clear view of the Weir River and the town of Hull on the opposite bank. Looking west, you will see the great hourglass-shaped peninsula of World’s End stretching toward Boston. You may also see a smattering of eider ducks and seagulls populating the