Volcanic peaks around the Inner Basin form the backdrop for Lockett Meadow.

      Approaching Flagstaff from any direction, the first thing you’ll notice is the San Francisco Peaks. Volcanic upheaval created this range, and after a million years of erosion, these are still Arizona’s highest mountains. For centuries the peaks, frequently snowcapped or shrouded in rain clouds, have held spiritual significance for Native Americans. They form the Sacred Mountain of the West and the boundary of the Navajo Nation; they’re also visible from the mesas of the Hopi, who believe that the Kachina spirits call these mountains home. The Kachina Peaks Wilderness encompasses the heart of this ancient volcano.

      On the edge of this wilderness, nestled high on the eastern slopes, is the alpine haven of Lockett Meadow Campground. The narrow unpaved road winds up the mountain, revealing magnificent views past the cinder cones and lava fields of Sunset Crater National Monument and out to the Painted Desert. This challenging route is usually passable by passenger cars in dry weather but is definitely not recommended for RVs or trailers. At its end, towering Douglas-fir, ponderosa pines, and quaking aspens surround several acres of upland prairie grasses, once summer grazing for the sheep of homesteader Henry Claiborne Lockett. In spring and summer, the meadow is spangled with wildflowers, and in late September and early October, the changing aspens splash the mountainsides with bright gold. Stand quietly at sunrise or sunset and you may see foraging elk, mule deer, porcupine, or even a black bear. Listen for voices of the numerous native and migratory birds. The variety of plant and animal life found in these mountains inspired pioneering biologist C. Hart Merriam to develop the ecological concept of life zones.

      Lockett Meadow is the only campground this high in the peaks, and it’s best to arrive early—the 17 campsites cannot be reserved, and dispersed camping is not permitted near the meadow. The high elevation means you’ll enjoy comfortable temperatures all summer, but come prepared for chilly evenings and quickly changing mountain weather in any season. The road is closed in the winter and the campground is unmaintained from October to May, but hardy souls on skis or snowshoes are welcome to use the campsites.

      As you reach the campground, the road becomes one-way. The meadow itself is protected grassland closed to camping and vehicles. The campsites are outside the loop, nestled under a canopy of pale aspens and mature ponderosa pines with their vanilla-scented bark. Each site has a picnic table and a fire ring; in dry Arizona it’s always a good idea to check with the U.S. Forest Service about fire restrictions. Pull in to the self-service pay station and check out site 1; it’s close but nicely screened from the road, and one of the two wildlife watering holes is just through the trees. Our favorite sites are near the busy trailhead, but once the day-use traffic is gone, site 7 may be the most secluded in the campground. Campsites 9–11 provide more room for larger groups, but are also more open to the road and each other. The best views of the meadow and the second pond are from sites 13–16. Two sets of vault toilets serve the campground; there are no other facilities and no drinking water. You won’t have a host, but the campground feels fairly secure. Although popular, Lockett Meadow still leaves you with an impression of remoteness and serenity once you’re in camp.

      The Inner Basin Trail begins its steady uphill climb at Lockett Meadow Campground. The wide, even trail makes a pleasant 3.9-mile round-trip through the forest of the caldera. You’ll top 10,000 feet, so be aware of your conditioning and pace yourself. If you’re very ambitious, follow the Weatherford Trail to the Humphreys Trail, which takes you to Arizona’s highest point (12,634'). On a