The Essential Fishing Handbook. Joe Cermele
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styles of internal gears can help you determine how much to spend and which reel is best for you. It ultimately boils down to what species of fish you intend to hook, and how hard that fish is going to fight.
CLICK-PAWL DRAG In the early days of flyfishing, all reels featured a click-pawl drag. In a simple configuration, a gear fixed to the back side of the spool locks into triangle-shape clickers held in place with tension on the inside of the reel frame. When the spool turns, the clickers keep up tension to stop the line from overrunning, as well as to stop the spool from moving in reverse. Some click-pawl reels feature adjustment knobs that allow the angler to change the amount of pressure on the clickers, thus making it easier to reduce tension when stripping line off to cast, and adding it when a fish is pulling against the reel. Click-pawl drags are still popular today, but they are mostly found on inexpensive reels. Click-pawls also are typically reserved for chasing smaller fish, such as stream trout and pond bass. It doesn’t make much sense to spend a ton of money on a click-pawl for small-water applications, as the reel is lile more than a line holder.
DISC DRAG Disc-drag fly reels are certainly more than line holders. These reels use a series of stacked washers sandwiched between plates covered in materials like cork or carbon fiber that be can compressed or decompressed via a drag adjustment knob toincrease or decrease tension.Disc-drag systems factor in the amount of heat generated when a fish is spinning the drag quickly, as well as the torque applied during a hard run. Disc-drag reels can cost a prey penny depending on the material used in construction. But if you’re chasing salmon, steelhead, striped bass, or tuna that are going to take a lot of line off the reel, you’ll want the reliability of a solid disc drag. Many disc drags are also sealed within the reel frame by a metal housing. This is particularly important to look for if the reel will be used in saltwater, as the housing keeps water out of the drag, thwarting corrosion and making sure moisture between the discs doesn’t compromise the drag’s performance.
the Inside
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Underst
fly reel
and your
HANDLE Unlike with spinning and baitcasting reels, rotating the handle of a fly reel typically turns the spool a
single revolution.
DRAG KNOB Adjusts drag tension. Some smaller reels have click-pawl drags, while reels for large fish sport strong cork and composite disc
braking systems.
SPOOL Many reels are fied with removable spools. Having different fly lines ready on a number of spools allows an angler to switch
tactics more quickly.
ARBOR The spindle around which the fly line is wrapped. Many modern reels have larger arbors that help recover line more quickly when a fish swims
toward the angler.
FRAME Holds the spool. A weak frame will warp, causing friction as the spool
revolves.
The fly reel has three basic purposes: to store line and backing, to provide a smooth drag against a running fish, and to balance rod weight and leverage. Even the most complex flyfishing reels are simpler than an average spinning reel, but it still behooves you to understand how to best utilize this vital piece of gear.
Flyfishing reels don’t revolve during a cast because fly anglers strip line from the reel and let it pay out during the back-and-forth motion called “false casting.” In the past, fly reels have served largely as line-storage devices with simple mechanical drags. Advancing technology and increased interest in flyfishing for big, strong-fighting fish
have led to strong drag systems that can stop fish as large as tarpon, which can reach -plus pounds ( kg).Other recent developments include warp- and corrosion-resistant materials and finishes and larger arbors—the spindles around which the line is wrapped—that reduce line coils and help maintain consistent drag pressure.
Unlike a spinning or conventional outfit where the reel and bait or lure weight dictate how far you cast, when it comes to flyfishing, the reel won’t gain you distance, and what’s tied to the end of the line doesn’t matter. What you’re actually casting is the line, and the fly you choose simply makes it more or less difficult to cast that line properly. The type of water, proper presentation of certain styles of fly, and the pursuit of different species sometimes call for specialty fly lines. These are the four most common types; picking the right one will up your success with the long rod.