3 . West Branch Penobscot River

       Location: North-central Maine, about a 2-hour ride from Bangor, a 4-hour ride from Portland; and a 5½-hour ride from Boston, Massachusetts. Full-service airports are available in all three cities.

      The West Branch Penobscot is the finest self-sustaining, river-dwelling landlocked Atlantic salmon fishery in Maine—and arguably the finest in the country. While not native to the river, landlocked salmon have thrived in the West Branch since their introduction in the

      late 1800s. This is due largely to an abundance of spawning habitat, a diverse forage base, and coolwater releases. The river also holds a significant population of wild native brook trout. However, salmon far outnumber the trout.

      The West Branch flows 117 miles before emptying into the Penobscot River. It begins at Seboomook Lake northwest of Moosehead Lake. The river runs roughly 25 miles before entering Chesuncook Lake. Below the lake, it flows approximately 20 miles before entering Pemadumcook Chain of Lakes. It drops roughly 1,775 feet from its headwaters to Medway. The river was once host to runs of Atlantic salmon. This ended with the construction of a series of dams that blocked passage.

      The West Branch has a rich history. It once served as a route of travel and reflection for author and naturalist Henry David Thoreau. His book The Maine Woods chronicles his exploration of the river and the Mount Katahdin region. The river

      also served as a conduit for “driving,” the hazardous work of moving logs downstream to mills, which finally ended in the 1970s when trucking became the transportation mode of choice. The dangerous task of moving wood down the rough waters of the West Branch fell to teams of river drivers. Many lost their lives while working the river. Their tales live on around flickering campfires.

      The land surrounding the West Branch is some of the most rugged and beautiful in the Northeast. The views are second to none. Maine’s highest point, Mount Katahdin (5,269 feet) and other distant peaks in Baxter State Park are constantly in view. The area is home to a wide variety of wildlife including eagles, ospreys, mink, coyotes, beavers, otters, deer, and a large population of moose. The area

      is a popular destination for hiking, whitewater rafting, canoeing, and wildlife watching.

      The West Branch is located west of Millinocket amid a vast working forest. The river corridor is protected by conservation easements that prohibit development. With the exception of a few private camps, two campgrounds, and a handful of rustic campsites, the West Branch looks much the way it did when Thoreau visited the area. Power and phone service end roughly 8 miles west of Millinocket. Access to the river is gained via the fabled Golden Road, a private road open to the public. Logging

      Mount Katahdin from below Nesowadnehunk Falls. Maine River Guides

      trucks have the right of way. Heed all warning signs, and park well off the road.

      The West Branch is a large freestone river. Flows are controlled by McKay Power Station, roughly ¾ mile downstream of Ripogenus Dam. Between Ripogenus Dam and McKay Station, there is a short stretch of river with a natural flow regime. The average flow below McKay Station is between 2,200 and 3,200 cfs.

      The roughly 10-mile section between McKay Station and Abol Bridge is the most popular with fly fishers—it offers the best fishing and access. The Golden Road parallels the river. From McKay to Big Eddy, the West Branch is a rugged river with Class III–V whitewater. Here the river

      Greg Bostater with Ripogenus Gorge landlocked salmon. Seneca Love

      is a series of drops, rapids, and runs, interrupted by deep pools and long tailouts. The Big Eddy is the most famous pool on the river. Below the eddy, the river widens into a series of riffles, runs, small rapids, and long pools before reaching Big Ambejackmockamus Falls. This begins a 2-mile stretch of Class III water known as Horserace, which terminates at Nesowadnehunk Deadwater. Below here is Class IV Nesowadnehunk Falls. Starting just downstream of the falls begins Abol Deadwater, which runs to Abol Bridge.

      The river opens to fishing April 1. As a result of runoff, fishing does not pick up for several weeks. The best fishing runs from around Memorial Day through September, when the season ends. The section from Ripogenus Dam to the Telos Bridge is restricted to fly fishing only. There is a one-fish limit on salmon, with a minimum length of 26 inches. From Telos Bridge downstream to the red markers at the head of Pockwockamus Falls, tackle is restricted to single-hook artificial lures only. The limit on salmon is one fish. The minimum length limit is 18 inches. From August 16

      Chris McMullen fishing the Cribwork. Maine River Guides

      through September 30, the entire section is restricted to fly fishing only.

      The average salmon on the West Branch runs between 12 and 16 inches. Fish between 18 and 20 inches are not uncommon. Fish over 20 inches are always a possibility. Brook trout average 8 to 12 inches. Trout up to 18 inches are possible, yet rare.

       Hatches: Salmon and trout on the West Branch feed on smelt, dace, insects, crayfish, eggs, and worms. Insects include mayflies, caddis, stoneflies, and midges. Fish will feed on sucker eggs in the spring, and on salmonid eggs in the fall. Smelt are the most important food source on the West Branch. They enter the upper river via Ripogenus Dam. The lower river gets a spawning run of smelt in the spring from Ambajejus Lake.

      Mayfly hatches begin in late May, with Blue-winged Olives, Quill Gordons, and Hendricksons. Stoneflies start around Memorial Day, and run all season. There are Yellow Sallies, Goldens, and occasionally Pteronarcys. March Browns, Sulphurs, and Cahills hatch in June.

      Caddis hatches start in June, continuing well into September. Netspinners, Zebra Caddis, and Great Autumn Sedges are all present. Caddis hatches can be epic at times.

      The West Branch is a big, brawling river. It can be intimidating for the wading angler not familiar with the river. The river can be floated. This is, however, best left to expert rowers who are familiar with the river. The West Branch is a great dry-fly fishery. Early in the season, streamer fishing with smelt patterns can be outstanding. Nymph fishing can be productive as well. The West Branch represents classic landlocked salmon fishing at its finest.

      Landlocked salmon caught at Steep Bank Pool by

      Paul Korenkiewicz. Maine River Guides

       Tackle: A 9-foot 5-weight rod with a floating line is your best bet for the West Branch most of the time. If you want to fish streamers, a 9-foot 6-weight with a fast-sinking sink tip is your best option. Dry-fly fishing can be done with a 9-foot 4-weight, as you may need to drop

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