Garden-Pedia. Pamela Bennett
Читать онлайн книгу.
rel="nofollow" href="#fb3_img_img_d1e14b67-797e-5b2c-934d-414f209dcad3.jpg"/>
Acer palmatum ‘Crimson Queen’ (cutleaf Japanese maple)
As good horticulturists, we know we should use scientific Latin names for all plants throughout this book. We wrestled (not literally!) with this issue for some time and this is what we have decided. For the purposes of this book, we will use the scientific Latin name as often as possible and as necessary for clarity, accompanied by the common name – e.g., Quercus alba (white oak) – especially when we are talking about only one or two plants. But if we have a whole list of plants within a term definition, we will use the name most often used by gardeners. Keep in mind this might be the Latin name or the common name. Note: Scientific Latin names are always written in italics and common names in regular font.
key
When a word is shown in color and boldface (e.g., perennial), it will have its own listing and definition elsewhere in the book (e.g., under “P”).
A
ABIOTIC to AXIL
ABIOTIC
A non-living organism.
ACCENT/SPECIMEN
Words used to describe a plant that is bold enough to stand on its own rather than part of a mass planting.
A good way to think of accent or specimen plants is as the star – the center focus – of your garden. These are plants that are strong and interesting enough to stand alone throughout the year. They often set the theme for the rest of the garden or landscape.
For example, Japanese maples often stand alone or as the main accent plant in a garden design. We would not see a row of such trees lining a drive. On the other hand, a common perennial, albeit beautiful, like a coneflower, would not stand well alone as the main focus of a garden – they do best as part of garden design and planted in multiples.
Montgomery blue spruce
ACCLIMATION
(See: Hardening Off)
ACIDIC/ALKALINE
(See: pH)
ACID-LOVING PLANTS
Plants that grow best with a soil pH around 5.0. (See: pH)
Blueberries
AERATE
To expose to air.
This term is typically used in reference to lawns, combined with the term “core.” Core aeration is recommended when soil is compact or there is a lot of thatch in the lawn. Core aeration is done with a machine (lawn aerator) that moves over the lawn and removes numerous small cores or plugs of soil. These cores of soil are left on the soil surface to break down. This practice helps to increase the amount of oxygen in the soil, which in turn increases the opportunity for healthy root growth.
AEROBIC/ANAEROBIC
Having oxygen (aerobic) or without oxygen (anaerobic).
Why is it important to know these two terms? For example, when it comes to composting, you need aerobic decomposition to occur in order for the compost process to proceed. It needs oxygen to do its work. You have an anaerobic situation with a lack of oxygen, like when the compost pile is too wet and composting shuts down and the pile begins to smell. The same when you have a bag full of wet grass clippings . . . well, you know the smell.
AGGREGATE
Clumps of varying sizes and shapes of primary soil particles.
The binding together of soil particles into aggregates provides soil structure. A soil with good structure is made up of aggregates of varying sizes that allow maximum space for air and water.
AGGRESSIVE
Referring to a plant’s active growth behavior.
When used in horticulture terms, aggressive means that a plant is a really good grower. It’s not quite invasive but it will tend to spread in the garden. When you hear this term, ask someone who has had experience with the plant in question, as this term can be very relative and dependent upon the person’s perspective!
AGRICULTURE
The art and science of cultivating land for production of food and for other uses by humans.
ALKALINE
Soil with a pH of 7.1 to 14.0. (See: pH)
ALTERNATE
Generally referring to leaves that are arranged on the stem in alternating fashion. (See: Leaf Pattern)
Asimina triloba (Pawpaw)
AMEND/AMENDMENT
Anything added to your soil to improve plant growth.
In a perfect world our garden soil would be the ideal mix of sand, silt and clay, nutrients, and pH, and we would never have to amend the soil. But the reality is that more often than not, we need to help our soil by adding materials that either enhance its physical and chemical properties or provide additional nutrients. You add organic matter to the soil as an amendment in order to improve root growth and thus plant health. Amending the soil improves the structure and its ability to perform functions such as water retention, permeability, water infiltration, drainage and aeration. You can also add nutrients to amend the soil in order to improve plant growth.
Amending the soil can be accomplished through different methods. You might hear of gardeners “top dressing” their garden. This is simply adding or amending their garden with a layer, perhaps an inch or two, of organic material, such as leaf mold. Amending the soil when planting a new flowerbed, tree or shrub is also a common practice. By giving the newly installed plant an extra boost of good nutrients and rich, organic matter, the plant is more likely to take hold and thrive (not just survive)