A simple dog bed that is washable is the best choice for a young puppy that’s still undergoing house-training.

      Collars, Leashes, and Harnesses

      Ideally, your puppy should wear a lightweight nylon or leather buckle collar with proper identification attached. Some experts warn of the dangers of an unattended dog wearing a collar twenty-four hours a day, the theory being that the dog could get the collar snagged on a fence or the crate and choke to death. This is a genuine concern, and you will need to weigh the pros and cons of a collar. Should you opt against a collar, be sure that your dog has another form of identification, such as a microchip.

      Nylon collars are inexpensive, which makes them a good choice for a puppy because you will need to replace the collar several times before the puppy isfully grown. Strong metal buckle fasteners may provide a slight advantage over plastic quick-release clips, which may break more easily. Again, much will depend on the type and size of your dog. There’s no need to go overboard purchasing expensive puppy collars because your puppy will outgrow them at a rapid rate. Leather collars are more expensive than nylon, and while they are well worth the investment for adult dogs, they may not be feasible for puppies.

      You’ll need to check the collar size frequently—once a week or so. Left unchecked, a collar that is too small can become embedded into a dog’s neck, causing serious health issues. Ideally, the collar should fit around your puppy’s neck with enough room for you to fit two fingers between his neck and the collar. It should not be so tight as to restrict his breathing or cause coughing, nor should it be so loose that it slips over his head. When too loose, the collar can easily snag on objects, such as shrubbery, a fence post, or another dog’s tooth or paw, causing the dog to panic and possibly hang himself.

      Several types of collars, such as choke chains, prong collars, and martingale collars, work by putting pressure on your dog’s neck and throat. While it may be tempting to use these devices on a puppy—especially a strong puppy—these collars are best left to professionals because they can cause serious damage to a puppy’s throat if used incorrectly. Taking the time to train your puppy without these devices to walk properly and not pull will be much more rewarding to you both.

      A head halter goes over your dog’s face and applies pressure to the back of the neck rather than the front of the throat. While a head halter can be very effective for some breeds, it is not designed for brachycephalic (short-faced) breeds, such as the Pug and Bulldog. Many dogs object to head halters, so you may need to consult a trainer for alternative solutions.

      You may decide to choose a harness for your new puppy. While a harness will take the pressure off of a puppy’s trachea, it will not keep him from pulling. In fact, harnesses on many types of dogs—such as Siberian Huskies, which are bred to run and run and run, and pit bulls, which are strong pullers—will teach a dog to pull, which is the opposite of what you're trying to accomplish. A variety of models are available in different shapes, sizes, and materials. It is best to seek professional advice in order to correctly fit your puppy with a harness and prevent chafing.

      Leashes

      Countless choices exist when it comes to leashes. A lot will depend on the size and strength of the dog you have chosen, how much money you are willing to spend, and your personal preference. Ideally, you should have several leashes—at least one for home and a spare to keep in your car. You never know when you’ll need it.

      A good quality leather leash is expensive but well worth the investment. Leather leashes are kinder and gentler on your hands, which is important because you will be using your leash frequently. The more you use a leather leash, the softer and more pliable it becomes. A well-cared-for leather leash will last a lifetime. If neglected, however, leather leashes can become cracked and brittle and may possibly break. Puppies love to chew leather, too, so be mindful of where you leave your leash lying around.

      Nylon leashes are lightweight and relatively inexpensive, but they are not always the best choice for medium or large dogs because they are hard on your hands and can slice your fingers should your dog lunge or give a good pull.

      Chain leads are noisy, heavy, cumbersome, and unnecessary.

      Rope leashes made from recycled climbing rope are softer than nylon and have a smidge of elasticity to them. Ideal for most breeds, they are durable; come in a wide range of styles, lengths, and fashionable colors; and are gentle on your hands.

      Retractable leashes are designed to extend and retract at the touch of a button. While some trainers use retractable leashes for teaching puppy recalls, many trainers recommend them only on well-behaved dogs that respond to voice commands. While a retractable leash allows your puppy a bit more privacy to do his business, sniff, and explore, the downside is that the leash can quickly become tangled around fence posts, bushes, trees, or other dogs if you are attempting to walk more than one dog at the same time. If a strong or determined puppy gets too far out on the leash, you may have trouble reeling him in.

      Depending on the size and breed of your dog, you will need to weigh the pros and cons of using a retractable leash. If you go this route, be sure to invest in a good-quality retractable leash designed for your breed. A thin retractable leash will be no good for a Staffordshire Bull Terrier, while a large, heavy leash will be too weighty for a Pomeranian.

      Puppy Brushes

      Countless types of brushes—from slickers to boar hair to wire pin—are available, and the equipment you choose for grooming depends largely on your puppy’s coat type and texture. A slicker works well for removing dead undercoat and debris from double-coated breeds; however, it will cause breakage on the long hair of drop-coated breeds. A brush with soft metal pins on a rubber-cushioned base, one in which the pins will give and not break the hair, are good for most breeds because they can work through the top coat and undercoat easily.

      Metal combs can be used to help break up mats and remove stubborn undercoat. A curry comb, hound glove, and canine chamois work well on short- or smooth-coated breeds.