The Ultimate Guide to Puppy Care and Training. Tracy J. Libby

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The Ultimate Guide to Puppy Care and Training - Tracy J. Libby


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puppy is less likely to have an issue with them as he gets older. Of course, for some dogs, chasing moving objects is in their DNA, and you will need to work hard to curtail this potentially dangerous behavior.

      Some dogs are prone to developing obsessive-compulsive behaviors, so it is important during the socialization process—and throughout the dog’s life—that you do your to best to prevent these behaviors from developing or, at the very least, from continuing. For instance, never allowing your puppy to fixate on cats or other animals, chase his tail, chase shadows, or run fence lines. And never, ever use laser lights. While it may seem like a fun way to exercise your puppy, laser-light games can create stress, anxiety, and potentially life-threatening obsessive behaviors in many dogs.

      Some puppies can be prone to spookiness, so you will want to discourage that behavior by exposing your puppy to lots of different sights, sounds, and people. If your dog tends to be aloof, you will want to socialize him to all types of situations so he does not develop fearful reactions to people.

      If your puppy has a bad experience at a young age, it is imperative that you address the situation right away—while the socialization window is still open. Do not be fooled into thinking that your puppy will grow out of his “phobias.” Once behaviors such as fear or aggression become ingrained, they are more difficult, if not impossible, to eliminate or fix. The socialization period is the best time to address any perceived problems. If your puppy is showing signs of anything other than normal puppy behaviors, this is the time to seek advice from a savvy trainer or behaviorist who can help repair the damage.

      Fear-Imprint Period

      As your puppy grows and matures, it is important to recognize and understand another critical stage: the fear-imprint period. The time frame of this period varies slightly among trainers and behaviorists, with some putting it between eight and ten-and-a-half or eleven weeks, and others extending it to sixteen weeks. Still others believe that it begins at twelve weeks, with dogs going through multiple periods in their lives during which they are more susceptible to behavioral changes connected with negative associations.

      While some trainers dismiss the concept of fear periods, many trainers and behaviorists caution owners about the importance of not subjecting a puppy to any traumatic, frightening, or painful experiences during these times. Such experiences may inadvertently create a temporary or long-lasting effect on a puppy more so than if they occurred at any other time in his life.

      For example, some puppies, depending on their temperament, find leaving their canine mom and siblings extremely stressful. If the new owner does not handle this major event properly, the puppy could have long-term issues. Other fearful experiences include being frightened or attacked by another dog or animal, hearing loud or unexpected noises, or being around people who shout and yell excessively. The list is endless. Planning carefully, socializing properly, and minimizing negative associations will help your puppy will grow into a happy, confident adult dog.

      Flight Instinct

      A primitive yet important trait to recognize is a dog’s natural fight or flight reflex. Think of it as a survival and self-preservation behavior. In the simplest of terms, a wild animal’s fight or flight reflex almost always triggers his flight from something threatening his existence, such as becoming another animal’s supper. Rarely do wild animals choose to stand and fight if other paths to safety (i.e., flight) exist. Only when they feel cornered, with no way to escape, will they stand their ground and fight.

      Despite thousands of years of domestication, dogs still maintain their wild ancestors’ fight or flight reflex. However, flight is not always an option for puppies or adult dogs. As a result, many dogs turn their fear into fighting or aggressive actions. These dogs may growl or bite when pushed to the point of feeling cornered.

      How close a fearful dog allows you to get to him before he moves away is called the flight zone. The more fearful the dog, the larger his flight zone tends to be. Fearful dogs tend to be less sure of themselves and will likely flee rather than stand their ground. When cornered, they usually, but not always, bite.

      Playing in the Gene Pool

      One cannot discount the importance of genetics. Remember, behavior always comes from a combination of genetics and environment, and a dog’s genetic material plays a big role in who he is and how well he reacts to the environment. There are many instances when owners acquire older puppies, say five or six months old, that for whatever reason were not adequately socialized. Some of these puppies can overcome their rough early lives because they have the superior genes to do so, and, of course, because they are adopted and cared for by loving owners. Many mature into wonderful dogs who flourish in one-dog homes, while others become guardians and best friends to a houseful of kids. Others have gone on to prove their mettle in canine competitions, including obedience, herding, and agility.

      However, some dogs lack the genetic material to overcome their harsh beginnings. As a result, they seldom develop the confidence and coping skills necessary to deal with the stress and pressure associated with different situations. This is why it is important to pay attention to where and from whom you acquire your puppy. No one is saying you should not adopt a shelter puppy or the runt rescued from a puppy mill. If you are absolutely head-over-heels in love with the puppy, go in with your eyes wide open and be aware that you may be facing an uphill battle. Your goal of a stable, happy, healthy puppy who is adaptable to changing environments may not be realistic—at least not in the near future.

      Balancing Act

      Socializing your puppy is a balancing act. You must expose him to the world around him while protecting him from potentially harmful or fearful situations and never encouraging or rewarding fearful behavior. You want to find the right amount of exposure and stimulation while still providing a safe, stress-free environment. It is important that your puppy is not exposed to a barrage of constant noise and stimulation every waking moment. Puppies have short attention spans, and they need plenty of downtime to sleep and recover from their busy days of being puppies. When they are awake, however, they need enough physical and mental stimulation and socialization to grow into healthy, happy adult dogs.

      Finding that balance will depend on your dog. Understanding the innate characteristics of your puppy’s breed as well as canine body language is especially handy during this time. You will need to read his signs by observing his reactions to different situations. Watch his ears, tail, and body posture. Is he happy? Fearful? Apprehensive? Courageous? Inquisitive? Submissive? By understanding and reading your dog’s body language, you will be able to assess his comfort level and evaluate or adjust the situation accordingly. Here are a few examples:

      •If your puppy is afraid of the vacuum cleaner, remove the vacuum and turn it on in another room. If possible, have someone turn it on in another room while you praise and reward your pup with plenty of yummy treats. (Don’t confuse a puppy’s innate herding or hunting instinct—attacking a vacuum—with fear. These are two different situations that require different approaches.)

      •If your puppy is afraid of a particular person, do not force him to engage. Simply allow your puppy to adjust on his terms. Have the person sit on the floor, which is less intimidating than having him or her stand over the puppy, and reward the puppy with treats when the pup approaches.

      •If your puppy is not used to children, a room full of rambunctious kids may be overwhelming or downright scary. Ideally, you should modify or restrict his exposure to just one quiet, well-behaved child until your puppy is confident enough to handle more.

      •If your puppy yelps because someone accidently stepped on his foot, avoid coddling him. Instead, immediately play with him and talk to him in a happy voice. This takes his mind off the situation and puts his focus on your happy, positive energy.

      It is human nature to want to comfort a puppy, but by babying or otherwise rewarding a puppy who shows fear, you are reinforcing that fear. It is also important never to scold or correct a puppy who shows fear or apprehension. Again, this only exacerbates the situation. Manage your puppy’s environment so he is not put in overwhelming situations. Instead, set him up to succeed so you can praise and reinforce him for being brave and inquisitive: “Good puppy!” or “Look at you. Aren’t you clever?”


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