Garden Carpentry - Span, Roof, Greenhouse, Toolshed, Wheelbarrow, Gates, Garden Lights, Summer House, Shelter Etc.. Various
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shaped back legs.
The cost of timber for a garden seat is not unduly heavy even if oak is selected. Failing this, there is larch, although (if available at present) the red Baltic pine, commonly known as red deal, will serve admirably if kept well painted. The length of seat shown is 4 ft. 6 ins., but it may be anything from 4 ft. to 5 ft., always bearing in mind that the larger size is more economical in the long run.
Ends.—Front legs are 2 1/2 ins. square; back legs 3 ins. by 2 ins. The reason for this latter size is that the back legs may be kept straight, the rake being effected by the placing of the back rails. Front legs are chamfered on the two front edges, the upper part being stop-chamfered also on the back edges. All legs are mortised for the seat rails and stretcher rails, noting that the seat at back is 1/2 in. lower than at front. The front legs have 5/8 in. stub tenons to enter the arms (see Fig. 3). Back legs, tapered and shaped at top, are mortised for back rails and either mortised or notched for arms. When assembling the ends, fit the joints with red lead paint (thick). Cramp up well.
Assembling.—Prepare the back, carefully spacing for the splats (K) which are tongued to rails (H and J). Note that splats are flush with rails on face. Turning to Fig. 3, observe that, whilst the lower rail (J) is kept flush with front face of back legs, the upper rail (H) is thrown towards the rear face—this to provide for the rake. Adjust the mortises accordingly. The lower rail (J) will have a shouldered tenon; the upper one (H) a barefaced tenon so that the back of rail slightly overlaps the leg.
With the long seat rails (E) ready, assemble the seat. The cross rail (F) and the long stretcher (G) may be dovetail housed. Should the worker prefer front and back underframe rails instead of the single stretcher, these may be tenoned to legs, raising the rails an inch or more so that the tenons clear those of rails (D). Peg the tenons. Again see that all joints are well painted. Test the piece for squareness and cramp up.
Arms are 4 1/2 ins. wide at front and 3 3/4 ins. or 4 ins. at back. At back they are either tenoned or notched to leg; at front they overhang the leg by 2 ins, (shaping as indicated) and are held by stub-tenoning and pegging. Round the corners front and back and take the arris off upper and under edges.
For the seating it is wise to use 4 ins. wide boards at front and back. Let the front board overhang an inch, rounding the edges over at end. All boards slightly overhang the seat rails (C). Screw down, countersinking well for the heads.
If to be painted, give a priming of red lead, followed by at least two coats of oil paint. If a preservative such as creosote is preferred give three dressings.
CUTTING LIST
Lengths allow for joints and fitting. Thicknesses are net.
LAWN TABLE
THE light garden table shown here was made entirely from oddments of oak, no piece of which exceeds 3 ins. in width. The size over top (shown 27 ins. by 18 ins. in the diagram) may be varied as required, whilst the height may be anything from 26 ins. to 30 ins. according to the average height of garden seat used. The parts required for a table of the dimensions indicated are:
If the height of table is lessened, keep the width across legs at ground equal to the width of top. Keep the width over legs at top 3 ins. less than that at ground.
The legs are halved where they intersect. If a full size set-out is made on the back of a waste sheet of wallpaper, the halving joint, the top tenons, and the ground line are readily ascertained. The legs are tenoned to the battens and are held midway by the stretcher rail (C) which is tenoned right through and wedged at each end. Plot the mortise carefully so that it does not cut away the halving unduly. The shoulders can be very wide. Joints are fixed with paint.
FIG. 1. A TABLE THAT YOU WILL FIND HANDY IN THE SUMMER
Main sizes are 30 ins. high, 27 ins. long, and 18 ins. deep.
FIG. 2. ELEVATION WITH MAIN SIZES.
The number of top laths (D) used may be determined by the width of stuff available, but from 1 3/4 ins. to 1 1/3 ins. gives the best effect. The spaces between are about 1/2 in., and the laths are fixed with brass screws well countersunk in.
If only required for light purposes the table is a very simple one to make, and if to be painted or varnished can be carried out in softwood.
TOOL SHED
FIG. 1. HANDY FOR THE MOWER, TOOLS, AND ODDMENTS.
A size of 5 ft. 6 ins. by 4 ft. is generally useful. The erection is not costly and will accommodate mower, roller, etc. The shed shown here can be dismantled.
WHEN building a shed the size must be suited to individual requirements. Thus any design given can be only in the nature of a suggestion. As alternatives to wood for the roof and sides asbestos-cement sheet (also obtained corrugated for roofs) and corrugated iron might be considered.
It is desirable for several reasons that the shed should be easily dismantled. Thus the four sides will be made as separate frames bolted together. The roof, span or flat (sloping), will be a separate unit, whilst the floor will be nailed down. A portable shed is usually provided with a concrete foundation which preserves it from ground moisture. Or, in another way, the corners might stand on small brick piers. If to be a fixture the outer posts of front and back frames are often cut about 24 ins. longer, charred and sunk into the ground.
So far as size is concerned a minimum is about 5 ft. 6 ins. by 4 ft. over the frames (before boarding). Anything smaller hardly repays cost and labour. Height is necessarily determined by normal stature. If a door of 6 ft. is allowed the head room inside will be ample. At this height obviously a more pleasing proportion for the shed is procured if the plan dimensions are increased, but this incurs more timber. A span roof, not acute, is indicated; but, if preferred, a boarded and battened plain roof may be substituted, this sloping gently (say, 6 ins. to 8 ins.) to the back. It will overhang a few inches.
End Frames (Fig. 2).—Taking the end frames, the front (door) frame is erected as at Fig. 2. Stuff 2 ins. by 2 ins. should be ample if the timber is sound, but if the shed is increased in size heavier stuff is desirable. In most cases halving joints will serve, but the bottom rail (B) should be tenoned to the outer posts (see Fig. 4). The span roof joints will also be clear from Fig. 4, pieces C and F being halved to outer posts (A). The inner door posts (D) are halved to pieces B and C and notched to F. At the apex these latter are nailed to the ridge pieces (G). All joints should be painted with thick paint before nailing.
The back frame is similar in size to front frame, but does not require the inner posts (D). Thus, instead of the fillings (E), a mid bar (dotted line H, Fig. 2) will be carried across to support the boarding.
FIG. 2. FRONT FRAME