Young Americans Abroad. Various
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and Devereux, both Earls of Essex, the Duke of Somerset, Lady Jane Grey and her husband, the Duke of Northumberland, Sir Walter Raleigh, Strafford, Laud—all perished on the Tower Green or on the Tower Hill. The spot is easily recognized where the scaffold was erected.
The regalia, or crown jewels, are kept in an apartment built on purpose to contain these precious treasures. Here are the crowns that once belonged to different sovereigns and heirs of the throne. At the death of Charles I., the crown in use, and said to be as old as the times of Edward the Confessor, was broken up, and a new one made at the restoration of Charles II. The arches of this crown are covered with large stones of different colors, and the cap of the crown is of purple velvet. The old crown for the queen is of gold, set with diamonds of great cost, and has some large pearls. There is a crown called "the Diadem," which was made for James II.'s queen, adorned with diamonds, and which cost just about half a million of dollars. The crown of the Prince of Wales is plain gold.
As for orbs, staffs, and sceptres, I can't tell you half the number. One I noticed called "St. Edward's Staff," of gold, four feet seven inches long. At the top is an orb and cross, and a fragment of the Savior's cross is said to be in the orb. Here, too, are all kinds of swords—called swords of justice and mercy—and vessels to hold the oil for anointing the monarch at coronation, and a saltcellar of gold which is used at the same time, and is a model of the Tower. I thought all this very fine; but I was most pleased with seeing such splendid specimens of precious stones. Such diamonds, pearls, amethysts, emeralds, &c., &c., we Yankee boys had never seen, and probably may never see again. I was very much delighted with a large silver wine fountain, presented by Plymouth to Charles II., and which is used at coronation banquets; and also with the font, of silver gilt; used at the baptism of the Queen. It stands about four feet high. Over all this show that I have told you of is the state crown made for Victoria. This is very brilliant, and in the centre of the diamond cross is a sparkling sapphire, while in front of the crown is a large ruby which was worn by the Black Prince. Well, Charley, my boy, I would rather go to Washington and look at our old copy of the Declaration of Independence than gaze for a whole day at this vast collection of treasure. There is more to be proud of in that old camp equipage of Washington's up in the patent office than in all the crown jewels of England—at least, so I think, and so do you.
Yours affectionately,
george.
Letter 12.
London.
Dear Charley:—
George has said his say about the Tower, he tells me; and I assure you it was a time that we shall often think of when we get back. On our return, the doctor proposed that we should visit the Thames Tunnel, which was not far off; and so we went through a number of poor streets, reminding us of the oldest parts of Boston round Faneuil Hall. The tunnel connects Rotherhithe and Wapping. This last place, you know, we have read about enough in Dibdin's Sea Songs, our old favorite.
Several notions about this great idea have been entertained in past years; but in 1814, Brunei, the great engineer, noticed the work of a worm on a vessel's keel, where it had sawn its way longitudinally, and he caught an idea. In 1833, he formed a "Thames Tunnel Company," and in 1825 he commenced operations, but it was not opened till 1843 for passengers. There are no carriage approaches to it, and it is only available to foot travellers. The ascent and descent is by shafts of, perhaps, one hundred steps. I think I heard that the great work cost the company, and government, who helped them, about half a million sterling. The passages are all lighted up with gas, and in the way you find raree shows of a dioramic character, and plenty of music, and not a few venders of views and models of the tunnel. After leaving this river curiosity, we went to see the new Houses of Parliament, which run along the banks of the river, in close neighborhood to Westminster Abbey. I felt disappointed at the first view, it is altogether so much like a very large pasteboard model—such a thing as you often see in ladies' fairs for charity. To my notion, the affair wants character; it is all beautiful detail. The length is about oho thousand feet. The clock tower is to be three hundred and twenty feet high. It is vain to describe the building, which is far too immense and complicated for my pea. I never was so bewildered in a place before. As I think you would like to have a correct idea of the House of Lords, I will quote from the description which was handed us on entering, but even then you will fail to understand its gorgeous character.
"Its length is ninety feet; height, forty-five feet, and width the same; so that it is a double cube. It is lighted by twelve windows, six on each side, each of which is divided by mullions into four, these being intersected by a transom, making eight lights in each window, which are made of stained glass, representing the kings and queens, consort and regnant, since the Conquest. The ceiling is flat, and divided into eighteen large compartments, which are subdivided by smaller ribs into four, having at the intersection lozenge-shaped compartments. The centre of the south end is occupied by the throne, each side of which are doors opening into the Victoria Lobby. The throne is elevated on steps. The canopy is divided into three compartments, the centre one rising higher than the others, and having under it the royal chair, which is a brilliant piece of workmanship; studded round the back with crystals. The shape of the chair is similar in outline to that in which the monarchs have been crowned, and which is in Westminster Abbey, but, of course, widely different in detail and decoration. On each side of this chair are others for Prince Albert and the Prince of Wales. At the north end is the bar of the house, where appeals are heard, and the Commons assemble when summoned on the occasion of the opening of Parliament. Above the bar is the reporters' gallery, behind which is the strangers', and round the sides of the House is another gallery, intended for the use of peeresses, &c., on state occasions.
"At the north and south ends of the house, above the gallery, are three compartments, corresponding in size and shape to the windows, and containing fresco paintings. Those at the north end are 'the Spirit of Religion,' by J.C. Horsley; 'the Spirit of Chivalry' and 'the Spirit of Justice,' by D. Maclise, R.A. Those at the south end, over the throne, are 'the Baptism of Ethelbert,' by Dyce; 'Edward III. conferring the Order of the Garter on the Black Prince,' and 'the Committal of Prince Henry by Judge Gascoigne,' by C.W. Cope, R.A. Between the windows are richly-decorated niches and canopies, which are to have bronze statues in them. In casting the eye round the whole room, it is almost impossible to detect scarcely a square inch which is not either carved or gilded. The ceiling, with its massive gilded and decorated panels, presents a most imposing and gorgeous effect, and one of truly royal splendor. The St. Stephen's Hall is ninety-five feet long, thirty feet wide, and sixty feet high; the roof is stone-groined, springing from clustered columns running up the side of the hall. The bosses, at the intersections of the main ribs, are carved in high relief, with incidents descriptive of the life of Stephen.
"This hall leads through a lofty archway into the central hall, which is octagon in plan, having columns at the angles, from which spring ribs forming a grand stone groin finishing in the centre, with an octagon lantern, the bosses at the intersections of all the ribs elaborately carved. The size of this hall is sixty-eight feet in diameter, and it is sixty feet to the crown of the groin."
The House of Commons, which is now in the course of completion, is quite a contrast to the splendor of the House of Lords. Its length is eighty-four feet; width, forty-five feet; and height, forty-three feet. An oak gallery runs all round the house, supported by posts at intervals, having carved heads, and spandrills supporting the main ribs. The strangers' gallery is at the south end, in front of which is the speaker's order gallery. At the north end is the reporters' gallery, over which is the ladies' gallery—being behind a stone screen. The libraries are fine rooms, looking out on the river. I have no time to tell you of the beautiful refreshment rooms, excepting to say that the one for the peers is one hundred feet long. I must not forget to say that in the tower is to be a wondrous clock, the dial of which is to be thirty feet in diameter! We went to see these buildings by an order from the lord chamberlain. The total cost is estimated at between eight and ten millions of dollars. It certainly is very rich, and looks finely from the river; but it is unfortunately too near to the abbey, and wants force. After leaving