Draw Manga. Tom Carpenter
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the ratings of the circuit supplying your shop, add an additional circuit or two.
Power & Lighting
Nearly every potential shop space will need electrical improvements. You may not need to go to pro-shop extremes, where each tool has a dedicated circuit. But avoid putting larger stationary tools (especially dust collectors) on a shared circuit. Since many larger stationary tools run on 230-volt service, it’s not a bad idea to run a 230-volt circuit for future use if you’re already updating the wiring.
There is a limit to the number of receptacles or fixtures you can hang on a circuit. A good rule of thumb is 8 to 10 lights or outlets per circuit. Rules and regulations are outlined in the National Electrical Code (NEC), but you should also consult your local city or county codes. Unless you have experience wiring, hire a licensed electrician for the job.
The best lighting for the shop is a balance of natural and artificial light and a balance of overall light and task light. Unfortunately, natural light is often hard to come by; many shops simply don’t have windows. One way to compensate for poor lighting is simply to do some basic cleanup and some painting with a light color. The walls and ceiling are the primary reflective surfaces, but a floor covered with light-colored enamel paint or vinyl tile will also make a big difference.
At minimum, you should have 20 foot-candles of lighting at floor level, throughout the shop: figure on providing at least one-half watt of fluorescent light or 2 watts of incandescent light for each square foot of shop floor (fluorescent lights are four to six times more efficient than incandescent and cast more uniform, shadow-free light). You’ll also need task lighting.
Wiring tips
∎ Separate lighting circuits from receptacle circuits. If you trip a breaker with a power tool, you don’t want to be left in the dark.
∎ Provide full power to a centrally located workbench through a floor-mounted receptacle or via a retractable cord suspended from the ceiling.
∎ Alternate the circuits from receptacle to receptacle. Or, wire each outlet of a duplex receptacle to a different circuit. That way, if you plug a power tool into one outlet and a shop vac into the other, then run both simultaneously, you’ll be drawing power from two circuits, rather than one.
∎ Ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) are required in garages, unfinished basements, outdoors, and locations near water.
An elaborate dust collection system is the hallmark of a serious woodworker. In this shop, each stationary tool has a dedicated hose and port that tie into the central vacuum ductwork.
Ventilation, Dust Collection & Climate Control
Ventilation. In any shop, ventilation can be problematic. The air fills with fine sawdust particles or finishing fumes very quickly. Airflow—all it takes is a window or attic fan—can clear the air, but if it carries the dust and stink into the living areas, or pulls cold air into the heated space, it isn’t a remedy. An ambient air filtration system that circulates air though filters may be your best solution.
Dust collection. Accumulating sawdust is the bane of the woodworker. It conceals cutting lines, plugs up tools and presents several dangers to your safety. That’s why setting up a system to remove as much sawdust as possible at the source is so critical.
Climate control. Heating a shop is important not simply for your personal comfort. Some woodworking operations—gluing and finishing are examples—are sensitive to temperature. A wide range of heating systems are available: central systems, radiant panels, in-wall space heaters, and portable space heaters fueled by wood, oil, gas, propane, kerosene, and electric, even coal and pellets. Avoid open-coil electric heaters, kerosene heaters, and open-flame heaters of any sort, because they can ignite sawdust, wood shavings, or flammable finishes in a shop. Use dehumidifiers and humidifiers to control shop humidity.
A humidity gauge lets you monitor the humidity level in your shop so you can run humidifiers and dehumidifiers as needed to keep the humidity constant for the duration of your project. Where possible, try to achieve a base humidity level that is roughly the same as the average humidity in the room where the project will end up.
Dust collection/air filtration devices improve air quality in the shop. Single-stage dust collectors attach to stationary power tools through a system of flexible ductwork. A motor-driven impeller draws air through the ductwork and into replaceable collection bags. Ambient air cleaners are fitted with filters to trap fine, airborne dust that can elude other dust collectors. Both portable and ceiling-mounted styles are available. A shop vacuum is handy for spot-cleaning but not designed to be the heart of a dust-collection system.
Workshop Furnishings
A shop needs flat sturdy worksurfaces and plenty of storage. Both of these needs are filled by your workshop furnishings.
Workbench. A first-class bench can be expensive, but you don’t need anything elaborate. A low-cost handy-man’s bench from the local home center may actually be better for your needs. You can also build your own. Simple workbenches aren’t difficult to make, and you’ll end up with exactly what you need. You can even speed things up a bit by using some prefabricated materials, like cabinets and countertops. Bench dimensions vary by intended use, but a good all-purpose bench size is 34 in. high, 30 in. wide, and 60 in. long.
Regardless of the design of your workbench, you want it to be heavy and rigid. The starting point is the leg assembly. A commercial joiner’s bench usually has a trestle-type base assembled with mortise-and-tenon joints. It will be made of hard maple or beech, maybe oak. But a massive, rigid structure can be built with nothing more exotic than 2 x 4s, glue, and drywall screws. The resulting bench may not look as handsome as a commercial unit, but it will be heavy and very strong. The time-honored way to beef up a bench is with a thick top. Manageable ways of getting a good top include buying a length of butcher-block countertop, face-gluing lengths of well-dried Douglas fir 2 x 4s, and layering several pieces of plywood, particleboard, or medium density fiberboard (MDF). Two or three coats of penetrating oil, such as tung oil or Danish oil, is the best finish for a benchtop. Never stain or paint a benchtop; the color can mar workpieces.
Vises & bench dogs. Strong and easy to operate, a bench vise is all metal, including the jaws (add wood facings to the jaws to protect your work). A sliding dog in the movable jaw, used in conjunction with a dog in the benchtop, comes in handy for clamping work on the bench surface. One great feature is the quick-action lever, which allows the front jaw to be moved without all the tedious cranking.
WORKBENCH OPTIONS
A woodworker’s workbench (purchased or shop-built) with one or two woodworking vises, bench dogs and a heavy-duty hardwood benchtop is the centerpiece of a wood shop.
A rugged set-up table made from dimension lumber and sheet goods is economical, easy to make and can accommodate most woodworking functions.
Kitchen