Victorinox Swiss Army Knife Camping & Outdoor Survival Guide. Bryan Lynch
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will give it a nice appearance and make sure that it functions the way it is supposed to.
When cleaning, first remove all the tools that are not fixed to the frame. These can be cleaned and wiped down separately.
Any small container, such as this plastic tote, will work.
Pictured left to right: miniature screwdriver, toothpick, tweezers, and ballpoint pen.
A WORD OF ADVICE
Do not submerse in water any model that has a flashlight or digital components.
Unless it has electronic components, dip the entire Swiss Army Knife into a container of warm water and swirl it around. While it is under the water, open and close each tool several times to get rid of any dirt and debris that may be in the crevices.
Use a sponge with a soft scouring pad on one side to help scrub away any marks and hard-to-remove dirt. Do not use a harder abrasive such as steel wool or sandpaper. After washing, dry each tool and the frame with a rag or towel. Even though it is made from stainless steel, it needs to be dried thoroughly.
Apply a small amount of the multi-tool oil to any moving parts a tool might have, such as where the two pieces of the scissors and pliers intersect. To lubricate the moving parts, apply a small amount—a single drop—to the hinge points of the tools. Open and close the tools several times to help spread the oil. Wipe down the smaller tools—toothpick, tweezers, etc.—with warm water and put them back in the frame. The cleaning process is complete. If you’re installing new scales, use a vice grip or pair of pliers to gently squeeze and snap the new scales into place. When compressing the scales, use a piece of cloth or any other type of padding between the vice grip and Swiss Army Knife to prevent damage to the scales.
After applying oil, open and close the tools several times to help spread the oil.
Cut about half an inch (2.5cm) off the end of a sponge for this step.
After applying oil to the scissors, stand them upright and open and close them several times to help spread the oil down to the pin.
Replacing the Springs
In some of the tools, such as the pliers and scissors, there is a spring that can be replaced if it begins to lose tension. Note that the two openings on either side of the frame are actually different in size, with one slightly larger than the other. Look at both sides before taking the spring out and keep track of which side that is. The spring should be pushed out from the side with the smaller opening, and the new spring should be inserted on the side with the larger opening.
One side of the tweezers just fits into the space where the base of the spring sits.
The miniature screwdriver head is small enough to help push out the base of the spring.
To remove the spring, I use my free hand to push the spring from the top while also pushing at the bottom with either the miniature screwdriver or the tweezers. A small nail or punch that better fits the opening of the spring would be ideal, but if you don’t have either of those on hand, these tools can be used instead.
Lay the new spring at a slight angle, and if a pair of pliers are available, use them to gently squeeze the new spring into place. If a punch or a pair of pliers is not available, I like to use the miniature screwdriver. Press in the bottom with the screwdriver while holding onto the rest of the spring with your other hand.
A WORD OF ADVICE
Not all of the springs are equal! When ordering a replacement, check that the spring you are ordering is for the correct Swiss Army Knife model and for the correct tool on that model.
Sharpening the Blade
Every Swiss Army Knife I have ever bought was razor sharp right out of the box and held its sharp edge much longer than other knives I have purchased. However, through use and abuse, even the Swiss Army Knife will eventually need to be sharpened. It is not good enough to have the best tool out there; taking care of it is just as important. A dull knife increases the risk of injury because a lot more force has to be put into the cutting task. And if the knife slips, you will cut yourself with that extra force. It may seem backwards, but I have cut myself more with tools that have dull edges than sharp edges—and it hurts just as much! Keeping the knife sharp is essential.
Pictured left to right: a small dual-sided sharpening stone, a 6” (15cm) three-stone sharpener, a container of water, and a leather strop with a buffing compound. The smaller doubled-sided stone on the far left is an ideal size to place in a go-bag.
TOOLS I USE FOR SHARPENING
• Sharpening stones
• Leather strop
• Buffing compound
• 1,000-grit sandpaper
• Portable sharpeners
SAFETY NOTE
Always wear gloves when cutting and sharpening your knife. After the sharpening process, wash your hands to remove the stone and metal residue from your skin.
SHARPENING STONES
Sharpening stones come in different types and grit levels. Some require lubricants, such as oil or water. Oil tends to be messy and a headache to clean up, so I stick with water or dry stones. Research what the stone needs in order to use it properly, and preserve it for as long as possible. It’s important that you do not use too much downward pressure when sharpening an edge. The weight of the knife is all the downward pressure you really need, because you want the stone to do the work.
If the edge is in rough shape, with nicks in the metal, it will need to be ground down. To accomplish this, draw the knife across a metal file as though you are cutting into it. A coarse stone can be used for this step, but I prefer a metal file. With the reamer tool (extended in the photo below), I was able to restore the edge by drawing it across a coarse stone (less than 1,000 grit), then a medium stone (1,000–3,000 grit), several times.
The dullness of the knife will determine which stone to start with. For example, if the knife is brand-new and has only been subjected to light-duty tasks, you will not need to use it on the coarsest stone. Instead, a fine-grit stone (4,000–8,000 grit) should bring the edge back rather quickly. With a little experience, it will become easy to tell which stone to start with.
This reamer tool has nicks all along the blade. This happened because I used the reamer to puncture holes in a metal can for a project. I should have made a straight punch in and out of the metal, but instead I turned the reamer when puncturing.
1. Make sure that the stone is well lubricated. Some stones need to be soaked