Chevelle Restoration and Authenticity Guide 1970-1972. Dale McIntosh
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trim codes, engine codes, rear end codes, etc. to help you with your search for, and restoration of, that dream Chevelle of yours.
Road Test the Car
If the car is drivable, I have always found it very beneficial to take the car out on a road test. Check out every system, such as brakes, heater, radio, shifting, engine, etc., and make note of any issues no matter how small. This will help during the restoration process so that things like a non-functioning fuel gauge will be checked out and repaired before the dash is restored and set back in the car only to find out you forgot to fix it.
Engine, transmission, and rear end issues will also be helpful for the rebuilder to be aware of so that they can look for internal issues during the rebuild. Telling the rebuilder that the rear end made a clunking noise while going around a corner will alert them to make sure to find the cause.
Thoroughly Examine the Condition
Give the car a good going over, noting what can be saved and what needs to be repaired or replaced. If you find electrical items that do not work, such as the wipers, gas gauge, horn, turn signals, etc., it is best to fix them now if possible rather than to face the same issue when you are putting the car back together. If it is a wiring issue, fix it and make note of the fix so when you install that new wiring harness you can be assured the component worked before installing the wiring harness. If it is something like wipers not working, turn signals not working, etc., hunting gremlins after installing new wiring may not be the best way to go only to find out your wiper motor is bad or you have a bad ground in the light wiring. If the issue is the part itself, such as the fuel gauge or the tank sending unit, now is the time to note that and get replacement parts ordered or at least on the list of parts to find or order. Any engine, transmission, brake, or suspension issues can be addressed when it comes time to rebuild/replace those components.
An item such as this battery tray can be purchased later in the restoration if you deem it beyond saving, so we will be sure to add it to the list of things to thoroughly inspect. (Photo Courtesy Steve Lubkey)
Keep a list with the item needing repair/replacement. This will help you prioritize and keep track of what you still need to buy and do. Some things you will need pretty quickly; some can easily wait. Components that are relatively easy to find but will not be installed until late in the restoration can probably wait. If you need new brake components, those can probably wait until you begin work on the chassis and suspension.
Appendix A has a checklist sample of some things to look for. Many items on the checklist you will want to replace as a matter of safety, such as brake pads/shoes, front suspension pieces, tires, engine belts, hoses, etc. But, do not throw those old parts away just yet. You may need them to compare the replacement items you will be buying in the future to ensure those replacement parts are correct.
Note details of the car and write them down or photograph them. Details such as the paint lines on the clutch and brake pedals, how much of the pedal is painted, and how much is left natural will be helpful as you reassemble your restoration.
You may need to send the body or frame to a specialty shop for cleaning, stripping, and in many cases straightening. If you are confident enough to do the bodywork and chassis assembly, then by all means use that to save for potential cost to other areas of your restoration. You may even be fortunate enough to have paint skills and a safe place to paint your car. Even if you do not have painting skills, you can do the bodywork and prep the car to have it painted by an outside source and then reassemble the car yourself, often with the help and advice of good friends. Just remember, everything you have to farm out to an outside source adds time and money to your project.
Note details such as the paint lines on the clutch and brake pedals. While these are serviceable and can be cleaned, make note of how much of the pedal is painted and how much is left natural. Photos of details like this will be valuable when it comes time to refurbish the part and reassemble the car.
If you are planning to buy new wiring harnesses, be sure to have a list of all the options your car has such as air-conditioning, factory gauges, power windows, etc. to ensure your supplier can get you the correct harnesses. Use as many of the hundreds of online forums as you can. There are many knowledgeable people on these boards who can help answer your many questions, and you will be able to compare photos of similar cars to yours to help you in the disassembly or assembly process. Gather as many reproduction catalogs for your type of car as you can or use their online catalogs to shop for the best products, prices, and terms.
Repair or Replace List
As you take the car apart, check the pieces and determine if they can be used as is with a little cleanup or if they need to be repaired, rebuilt, or replaced. Separate the must-be-replaced items and make a plan for the timing of when they need to be ordered for installation. When possible, it is always better to repair an item if it can be repaired than to replace it with parts from a donor car or reproduction parts. It is good to remember that these almost 50-year-old cars were not built with the laser and robot precision that cars are built with today. Reproduction parts often are not up to the quality of original parts in fit and finish, so it can take quite a bit of tweaking to get them to fit properly. Aftermarket suppliers do not always have the same quality parts as originals. Even new old stock (NOS) replacement pieces, especially body panels, do not match the fit, finish, and quality of original body panels.
Factory Correct Parts
GM service replacement parts often are not the same as original parts. If General Motors discovers that a part can be serviceable for several years and/or models of GM cars, it will be sold by dealers. Often, tweaking is necessary to get them to fit correctly, and they may or may not have the correct casting number or even the casting date or markings for your specific application. There may have been a production change during the year, such as the 1966 and 1970 hood panels where only the later version is available.
Aftermarket suppliers are becoming more aware of the demand for correctly marked pieces and offer quality reproductions with correct markings, such as engine hoses, fuel lines, etc. One good example for 1970 of aftermarket versus original equipment body panels is this driver-side front fender.
The underside of the early version of the RPO ZL2 hood had different-shaped cutouts and no creases for a crush zone, which would have allowed the front of the hood to buckle on impact and distribute the energy.
The late version of the RPO ZL2 Special Ducted Hood Air system had different cutout shapes on the underside with horizontal creases to create a crush zone. Also note the four cutouts are a new design.
This late version of the underside of a standard SS domed hood had creases for a crush zone and redesigned cutout areas. The change from early to late occurred around the April/May time frame in most plants.
Note different cutout shapes and the horizontal creases to create a crush zone on the underside of this late version of a normal SS domed hood. Assembly plants would continue to use the early version until supplies of the early hood had expired.
This is the location of the two holes used on an original equipment driver-side fender to mount the windshield