Positioning your herb bed as close to the house as possible will make tending and harvesting easier. When planning an apothecary garden remember that not all herbs like full sun; divide the area into sun, partial shade and full shade and plant accordingly. I recommend selecting a circular plot and making a herb spiral.

      Creating a herb spiral

      A herb spiral is as simple as it sounds: a large spiral structure, typically measuring one and a half to two meters/yards wide diameter at the base, spiralling up to a height of around one meter, with a planting path running up it. A herb spiral of these proportions is big enough to accommodate at least all of the basic herbs included here, and a few slightly more exotic ones too.

      There are many advantages of creating a herb spiral. First, by making use of both the vertical and the horizontal space, it allows you to make maximum use of a small growing area. This is particularly beneficial to those with little or no garden. The curved nature of the planting beds also increases the growing area available, compared to more traditional straight-edged gardens. Due to its design, the herb spiral offers a variety of different microclimates and aspects that are all easily accessible.

      The benefits of this diversity of habitats are obvious – the gardener is able to plant a wide range of plants, all with differing needs and uses, in a very small area. Oil-rich herbs, such as rosemary, thyme and sage, can be grown on the dry and sunny top southerly side, whereas the moist and sheltered base on the northerly side is perfect for green foliage herbs such as mint, parsley and coriander. There is even the potential to create a small pond or bog area at the base of the spiral for plants such as watercress and watermint.

      Virtually any building materials can be used to construct the herb spiral, as long as they’re reasonably long-lived and not likely to rot away as untreated wood is liable to do. Anything from wooden stakes to large slates, bricks, stones, bottles stacked on their side, or even scrap tyres can be used to create the walls of the spiral. If you are building directly onto earth, it’s advisable to mulch the area beforehand, to prevent weed problems whilst the herbs are establishing themselves. You can use anything water permeable, such as cardboard or old carpet. If you are building onto concrete, break it up to ensure adequate drainage. You can choose one of two methods of construction. The simplest and possibly less stable method, at least while the herbs are becoming established, is to pile the soil into a large heap and insert stones, slates, etc. to create a spiral shape. Because there is a danger of the soil washing away in rain or blowing away in wind before the plants are established, it is best to use pot-grown plants if you choose this method.

      The second method is more permanent and more involved. First, stake out the spiral shape using sticks or bamboo. The base should be between one and a half to two metres/yards in diameter. Next, construct the walls using bricks or stones, starting from the outside and moving inwards. Add more layers, gradually increasing the height as you move into the centre. If you are using bricks and mortar, add the soil at the end. If you are using a ‘dry stone’ technique (just stacking the stones on top of one another), add the soil as you go to give more support and stability.