Alaskan Malamute. Thomas Stockman
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all-time favorite toy for puppies (young and old!) is the empty gallon milk jug. Hard plastic juice containers—46 ounces or more—are also excellent. Such containers make lots of noise when they are batted about, and puppies go crazy with delight as they play with them. However, they don’t often last very long, so be sure to remove and replace them when they get chewed up.
CONFINEMENT
It is wise to keep your puppy confined to a small “puppy-proofed” area of the house for his first few weeks at home. Gate or block off a space near the door he will use for outdoor potty trips. Expandable baby gates are useful to create puppy’s designated area. If he is allowed to roam through the entire house or even only several rooms, it will be more difficult to house-train him.
A word of caution about homemade toys: be careful with your choices of non-traditional play objects. Never use old shoes or socks, since a puppy cannot distinguish between the old ones on which he’s allowed to chew and the new ones in your closet that are strictly off limits. That principle applies to anything that resembles something that you don’t want your puppy to chew.
Stands at dog shows offer all kinds of pet supplies, from the everyday to the outrageous!
COLLARS
A lightweight nylon collar is the best choice for a very young pup. Quick-clip collars are easy to put on and remove, and they can be adjusted as the puppy grows. Introduce him to his collar as soon as he comes home to get him accustomed to wearing it. He’ll get used to it quickly and won’t mind a bit. Make sure that it is snug enough that it won’t slip off, yet loose enough to be comfortable for the pup. You should be able to slip two fingers between the collar and his neck. Check the collar often, as puppies grow in spurts, and his collar can become too tight almost overnight, and don’t forget that the Malamute has a lot of coat to fit under that collar! Choke collars are for training purposes only and should never be used on a puppy under four or five months old. If you decide to use a choke collar, you must choose one that is designed not to damage a dog’s coat.
Provide your Malamute puppy with clean bedding and safe playthings. This youngster seems quite content in his new surroundings.
LEASHES
A 6-foot nylon lead is an excellent choice for a young puppy. It is lightweight and not as tempting to chew as a leather lead. You can switch to a 6-foot leather lead after your pup has grown and is used to walking politely on a lead. For initial puppy walks and house-training purposes, you should invest in a shorter lead so that you have more control over the puppy. At first, you don’t want him wandering too far away from you and, when taking him out for toileting, you will want to keep him in the specific area chosen for his potty spot.
COLLARING OUR CANINES
The standard flat collar with a buckle or a snap, in leather, nylon or cotton, is widely regarded as the everyday all-purpose collar. If the collar fits correctly, you should be able to fit two fingers between the collar and the dog’s neck.
Leather Buckle Collars
The martingale, Greyhound or limited-slip collar is preferred by many dog owners and trainers. It is fixed with an extra loop that tightens when pressure is applied to the leash. The martingale collar gets tighter but does not “choke” the dog. The limited-slip collar should only be used for walking and training, not for free play or interaction with another dog. These types of collar should never be left on the dog, as the extra loop can lead to accidents.
Limited-Slip Collar
Snap Bolt Choke Collar
Nylon Collar
Quick-Click Closure
Choke Chain Collars
Harness
Choke collars, usually made of stainless steel, are made for training purposes, though are not recommended for small dogs or heavily coated breeds. The chains can injure small dogs or damage long/abundant coats. Thin nylon choke leads are commonly used on show dogs while in the ring, though they are not practical for everyday use.
The harness, with two or three straps that attach over the dog’s shoulders and around his torso, is a humane and safe alternative to the conventional collar. By and large, a well-made harness is virtually escape-proof. Harnesses are available in nylon and mesh and can be outfitted on most dogs, with chest girths ranging from 10 to 30 inches.
A head collar, composed of a nylon strap that goes around the dog’s muzzle and a second strap that wraps around his neck, offers the owner better control over his dog. This device is recommended for problem-solving with dogs (including jumping up, pulling and aggressive behaviors), but must be used with care.
A training halter, including a flat collar and two straps, made of nylon and webbing, is designed for walking. There are several on the market; some are more difficult to put on the dog than others. The halter harness, with two small slip rings at each end, is recommended for ease of use.
TOXIC PLANTS
Plants are natural puppy magnets, but many can be harmful, even fatal, if ingested by a puppy or adult dog. Scout your yard and home interior and remove any plants, bushes or flowers that could be even mildly dangerous. It could save your puppy’s life. You can obtain a complete list of toxic plants from your veterinarian, at the public library or by looking online.
Once the puppy is heel-trained with a traditional leash, you can consider purchasing a retractable lead. A flexible lead is excellent for walking adult dogs that are already leash-wise. The “flexi” allows the dog to roam farther away from you and explore a wider area when out walking, and also retracts when you need to keep him close to you. If you are confident that your Malamute will behave politely given the added freedom of a flexi, be sure to purchase a sturdy one made for large dogs.
HOME SAFETY FOR YOUR PUPPY
The importance of puppy-proofing cannot be overstated. In addition to making your house comfortable for your Alaskan Malamute’s arrival, you also must make sure that your house is safe for your puppy before you bring him home. There are countless hazards in the owner’s personal living environment that a pup can sniff, chew, swallow or destroy. Many are obvious; others are not. Do a thorough advance house check to remove or rearrange those things that could hurt your puppy, keeping any potentially dangerous items out of areas to which he will have access.