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the rise, a more moderate climb leads to a junction with the much fainter tread of the Mill Creek Trail on your left.

      Veer right at the junction and make a moderately steep to very steep climb away from the east fork of Crystal Creek up Steep Ravine, a steep, dry, and dusty gully that fortunately is well shaded by the canopy of a mixed forest. Old roads periodically fork away from the trail, but your well-traveled route is obvious at each junction. At the top of the ravine, the trail swings around a hillside and draws closer to the creek, which noisily tumbles in the canyon below. A more moderate ascent leads to Trail Camp, complete with picnic tables, a bear box, and a tent platform.

      Above the camp, you cross over the creek on a wood bridge and then climb more steeply again, headed up the narrowing canyon toward the base of Whiskeytown Falls, where another well-placed bench provides a fine place from which to watch the falls tumble into a shallow pool. To reach the upper viewpoint, clamber up a series of rock steps bordered by a steel handrail a short distance to where the multiple upper cascades of the upper falls are strikingly visible. According to the NPS guide for the James K. Carr Trail, the first vista point is known as Photographer’s Ledge and the upper vista point is known as Artist’s Ledge. Whether you’re a photographer, an artist, or simply an average hiker, you are likely to be very impressed with the scenic display put on by Whiskeytown Falls.

      The Story Behind the Missing Waterfall

      So how does one lose track of such a significant physical feature as a waterfall? Before the creation of the 42,000-acre Whiskeytown National Recreation Area, the land was in private hands and the location of the falls was known only to a small number of loggers. Rangers became aware of the waterfall in 1967, but the National Park Service lacked the funds in those days to build a trail and pay for staffing. As time wore on, rangers with knowledge of the falls either passed away or were reassigned to other locations. Park biologist Russ Weatherbee’s rediscovery quickly led to the renovation of an old logging road into the James K. Carr Trail, named for the Undersecretary of the Interior who championed national park status for the Whiskeytown area. The falls have become one of the area’s most popular attractions.

      A tree rises from among the shrubs at the edge of the woods.

      chapter 2

      Trips in Trinity Alps Wilderness

      The Trinity Alps region of the Klamath Mountains boasts some of the most diverse topography in California, ranging from coastal forests below 2,000 feet to glacier-clad, 9,002-foot Thompson Peak. One of the largest roadless tracts in the state, the area includes the headwaters of two of Northern California’s most prominent rivers, the Salmon and Trinity. Far away from any major population centers, the 515,000-acre Trinity Alps Wilderness also offers recreational enthusiasts the opportunity for plenty of solitude. While some of the lower-elevation trails make for excellent fall and spring hiking, most of the wilderness is best visited during the summer months.

      With more than 500 miles of trails, the Trinity Alps Wilderness is a hiker’s and backpacker’s bonanza. Trips in this chapter run the gamut from forested walks to alpine heights and everything in between. With 34 described trips, the Trinity Alps makes up the bulk of this guide, including a fine sampling of both day hikes and multiday backpacks.

      Backpackers are required to obtain a wilderness permit for any overnight stays within the Trinity Alps Wilderness, available by self-registration at ranger stations. In addition to hiking and backpacking, the vast area of federal land around the Trinity Alps Wilderness offers numerous activities. The Trinity River is a notable fishery for anglers in search of salmon and steelhead. River runners also covet the river, which offers up to Class IV and V rapids in Burnt Ranch Gorge. Plenty of developed national recreation area and U.S. Forest Service (USFS) campgrounds around the Alps’ perimeter provide excellent camping opportunities, while several resorts and inns offer more-luxurious overnight accommodations.

      Trips from CA 3: Weaverville to Callahan

      CA 3 connects the full-service community of Weaverville to the tiny burg of Callahan, traveling 63 miles along the west side of the Alps. Outside of Weaverville the two-lane road reaches the east arm of Trinity Lake and then continues northbound just to the west of the lake for several miles, passing turnoffs to USFS campgrounds, boat ramps, and trailheads along the way, as well as private neighborhoods and a few resorts. Beyond Trinity Lake, the highway snakes along the banks of the Trinity River to the small community of Coffee Creek and a junction with Coffee Creek Road (County Road 104), which leads to resorts, several trailheads, and a pair of campgrounds. Beyond Coffee Creek, CA 3 provides access to additional campgrounds and a handful of trailheads. At the junction with Forest Service Road 17, CA 3 veers west away from the Trinity River and makes a winding climb to a high point at Scott Mountain Summit (±5,408'), crossing the Pacific Crest Trail at the northeast edge of the Trinity Alps Wilderness. From there, the road makes a less serpentine but steep descent to a crossing of South Fork Scott River near Callahan at the edge of Scott Valley. Near the far edge of town is a junction with westbound Cecilville Road (FS 93), which provides access to trails described in Trips 29–35.

      HIGHLIGHTS Weaverville Historic District, Joss House State Historic Park, Trinity County Museum, Weaverville Farmers’ Market (Wednesdays), Trinity Lake, Trinity River

      STUART FORK TRAILHEAD

      TRIP 5 Stuart Fork to Emerald, Sapphire, and Mirror Lakes

      

      Set in glaciated granite at the head of rushing Stuart Fork, Emerald, Sapphire, and Mirror Lakes are the area’s crown jewels.

      Trip Type:

      Backpack, 4–7 days

      Distance & Configuration:

      29-mile out-and-back to Sapphire Lake (plus 2.6-mile cross-country round-trip to Mirror Lake and 7.2-mile round-trip to Big Caribou Lake)

      Elevation Change:

      4,240' (average 292'/mile)

      Difficulty:

      Moderate

      Season:

      Mid-June–mid-October

      Maps:

      USGS Rush Creek Lakes, Siligo Peak, Mount Hilton, Caribou Lake, and Thompson Peak; USFS A Guide to the Trinity Alps Wilderness

      Management:

      Weaverville Ranger District, 530-623-2121, fs.usda.gov/stnf

      Nearest Campground:

      Bridge

      The long canyon of Stuart Fork and the three lakes at the head are breathtakingly beautiful in spite of a long history of human use and abuse. The hike to the lakes is delightful, although not exactly a wilderness experience. Don’t expect solitude—Stuart Fork is one of the most heavily used trails in the Trinity Alps. However, overcrowding is only a problem if you insist on camping at Emerald or Sapphire Lake. Farther down the valley, Portuguese Camp, Morris Meadow, Oak Flat, and other campsites can accommodate large numbers of campers without feeling crowded.

      Dense, mixed forest carpets the sides of the lower valley, and the river flows swiftly through a rocky

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