Home Gardener's Pruning (UK Only). David Squire
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For experienced gardeners only
Knives have been used to prune plants for many decades, but their use is best reserved for gardeners with practical experience of them. They must be very sharp, and in the hands of a novice can be a lethal weapon. Take care when using a knife.
Pruning knife
High-reach pruners
For safety-first pruning
Also known as branch or tree loppers, these enable high branches to be pruned while the pruner stands safely on the ground. They cut shoots 1 in (2.5 cm) thick at heights up to 10 ft (3 m). They are ideal for pruning large and vigorous fruit trees.
High-reach pruners
Gloves and kneeling pads
When pruning roses
Stout but flexible gloves prevent hands being ripped by thorns, while a kneeling pad makes bush roses easier to reach. Kneelers are also useful as their side supports help infirm gardeners to get down and up easily without back strain.
Kneeling pad
Gloves
Knee pads
Buying good tools
It is false economy to buy a poor-quality gardening tool as it will soon fail and may harm you, especially if a powered type. In addition, sharp-edged tools may soon lose their sharpness. Therefore, always buy a reputable brand from an established store.
Renting tools
Many gardening tools can be rented, but usually it is those that are only occasionally needed, such as chainsaws. Before hiring a chainsaw, confirm that it is in good condition, with a sharp chain and any additional oils or tools required.
TOOL MAINTENANCE
Pruning tools must be kept sharp and in good condition if they are to operate and function easily and properly.
• Wash and wipe tools after use and coat bright surfaces with thin oil, especially if stored for several months.
• Chains on chainsaws need frequent checking during use, but first unplug the power cable.
• Check power cables at the end of each season and replace those that are damaged.
• Store equipment in an airy, waterproof shed. If it is slightly damp, wrap small tools in a dry cloth and place in a plastic bag.
GETTING A GRIP
Before buying a gardening tool, always handle it to ensure that it feels right for you. Pruning tools – especially garden shears – should be comfortable to hold and easy to use. If too large for your hand, it is difficult to put the desired pressure on the handles. If too small, there is a chance of fingers being pinched when handles are closed.
Check loppers to ensure that the handles, as the blades close and cut, do not nip and trap large hands.
When testing hedge trimmers, check that as they cut they do not jolt your hands and wrists; some shears have rubber stops to prevent this happening. Additionally, check that they cut along their entire cutting edges.
Preparing plants for planting
This involves pruning both roots and shoots. If a bare-rooted rose, shrub or tree has long or damaged roots, they need to be shortened or cut out completely before planting proceeds. Additionally, damaged or misplaced branches and shoots need cutting out to create a balanced “head”; a tree with too many branches on one side will look strange, as well as being more susceptible to damage from strong and gusting winds.
What is pre-planting pruning?
When planting, check that the top of the soil ball of a container-grown plant is even with the surrounding soil.
TRIMMING THE ROOTS
Preparing the roots is important for both bare-rooted and container-grown plants. Those of bare-rooted plants can be readily seen, and damaged or extra long ones identified. Use sharp pruning shears to cut those of roses to about 12 in (30 cm) long. If left, they prevent the plant being positioned over a mound of soil in the hole’s base and the roots evenly covered with friable soil. Damaged roots will not recover and may cause others to deteriorate and die.
The roots of container-grown roses and fruit trees also need attention. Trees left too long in a container before being sold may have contorted roots which will never properly anchor the plant. The container needs to be full of young, healthy roots that will quickly grow into surrounding soil when planted.
Getting plants established
Pruning roots and stems is not the only part of getting plants established. Erect ‘guards’ against rabbits if they are a pest in your area.
• Where a plant has been planted in early winter, in spring use the heel of your shoe or boot to refirm the soil. Frost tends to lift the soil, while strong winds may rock insecure plants and loosen their roots.
• Before refirming soil around trees that have been secured to a stake, loosen the ties. This is because the main stem will be slightly pressed downwards during firming and thereby strangled if the ties were not loosened. Firm the soil and then reposition and tighten the ties.
ROSE BUSH PREPARATION
Checking roots: Cut back long and thin roots so that they will not impede planting. Cut out roots which may have been damaged when the plant was dug up from the soil. Also cut out roots damaged by pests or diseases.
Checking shoots: Cut out thin or decayed shoots, as well as leaves which may still be present.
FRUIT TREE PREPARATION
Checking roots: Cut out thin, weak and diseased roots. Also, cut out extra thick and downward-growing roots – make a long, sloping cut on the underside.
Checking shoots: Use sharp pruning shears to cut out shoots that have been damaged. Ensure that the trunk is well secured to a stake, so that wind cannot cause damage.
Making