WHICH VINEGAR WHEN?

      BALSAMIC VINEGAR

      The more you pay, the better the quality. Look for a vinegar that has been aged for several years and contains more grape must than wine vinegar – it will have a syrupy consistency and a fabulous depth of flavour. Save your posh one to use with figs and strawberries.

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      BEER VINEGAR

      No surprises here – the base of this is beer, but it is brewed with a vinegar mother to achieve the acidity. Flavours vary from lighter styles to dark rich notes depending on which ale is used.

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      CHINESE VINEGAR

      The main ingredients here are the same as rice vinegar, sometimes with added spice, and the colour comes from an additive. Good for marinades and stir-fries.

      CIDER VINEGAR

      Also known as apple cider vinegar. Similar to a sharp, acidic flat cider with a vinegary, apple-y aftertaste. Next time you’re cooking pork chops, add a knob of butter to the pan juices plus a splash of this for a simple sauce. Or try this in a quick tuna pâté (see here). It also has some digestive benefits (see here).

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      DISTILLED MALT VINEGAR

      This is produced by the distillation of malt, which gives a clear, colourless vinegar. Inexpensive; used mainly in pickling and preserving, and also for cleaning.

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      HONEY VINEGAR

      Sharp and bright with no hint of sweetness. It has a strong kick, so use it sparingly. Good with the Chocolate Sharing Mousse here.

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      MALT VINEGAR

      Made from barley and dark brown in colour. It has a very sharp taste; it is traditionally sprinkled over fish and chips, but it’s also really useful when making big batches of pickles or chutneys as it’s inexpensive.

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      MOSCATEL VINEGAR

      Sweet and raisin-y, with hints of honey and florals. If this is used in a dressing, reduce the suggested sugar quantity so as not to overdo the sweetness. Good with a soft, creamy blue cheese such as Gorgonzola dolce or Beauvale. For a new twist, use in the classic dressing for oysters – sauce mignonette (see here).

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      RASPBERRY VINEGAR

      Bright pink with a thick consistency and a predominant fruity taste with a tart edge. Keep it for salad dressings and try it in the recipes here.

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      RED WINE VINEGAR

      It’s really worth pushing the boat out with this type of vinegar and looking for a particular grape, such as Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon, as the flavour of these is incomparable. Some specialist red wine vinegars have been mixed with grape juice, which softens the sharpness, and are good for splashing into a dish of dark fruits. Or use them for finishing off a game dish. A basic red wine vinegar is fine for everyday dressings, but when you want a subtle sharpness with complex flavours, you do need to shell out for something a little more special. A good-quality red wine vinegar will have a well-rounded flavour that’s tangy rather than acidic, and will also be less likely to cause acid reflux or heartburn in those prone to it.

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      RICE VINEGAR

      This is made from rice and water, which are left to brew and then sometimes flavoured with salt. Useful for quick pickles (eg radish and cucumber) or for splashing over stir-fries.

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      SHERRY VINEGAR

      Like sherry itself, from Fino to PX there’s a huge range of flavours for this vinegar – and again, the more you spend, the more complex the character. Some makes have colour added, so check the bottle before you buy. A basic one is good added to gravies, or use it to cut through a fatty sausage – see tip here or the couscous salad here. The PX vinegar is sweetish and smooth and works well with dark fruits such as blackberries.

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      VERJUS

      Not strictly a vinegar, but it is often used in the same way to finish off recipes or added to pan sauces. It’s made by pressing unripened green grapes and has a raisin-y/apple-y aroma and taste. Also good with summer fruits – see Peaches with Verjus and Rosemary here – and salads that feature toasted nuts and cheeses. It’s not as sharp as most vinegars, so it allows other ingredients to sing rather than be swamped.

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      WHITE WINE VINEGAR

      The go-to for a light salad dressing when you need a touch of acidity – use one-part vinegar to three-parts mild olive oil. You can also use it to make a shallot pickle to go with a curry as here.