A Voyage in the 'Sunbeam', Our Home on the Ocean for Eleven Months. Brassey Annie
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here, and it was interesting to watch the various processes by which it is turned into flour, tapioca, or starch. As it is largely exported, there seems no reason why it should not be introduced into India, for the ease with which it is cultivated and propagated, the extremes of temperature it will bear, and the abundance of its crop, all tend to recommend it. We went on to look at the maize being shelled, crushed, and ground into coarse or fine flour, for cakes and bread, and the process of crushing the sugar-cane, turning its juice into sugar and rum, and its refuse into potash. All the food manufactured here is used on the estate; coffee alone is exported. I felt thoroughly exhausted by the time we returned to the house, only to exchange adieus and step into the carriage on our way to Barra by rail en route to Rio de Janeiro. After passing through several long tunnels at the top of the Serra, the line drops down to Palmeiras, after which the descent became very picturesque, as we passed, by steep inclines, through virgin forests full of creepers, ferns, flowers, and orchids. The sunset was magnificent, and the subsequent coolness of the atmosphere most grateful. Leaving the Emperor's palace of São Christovão behind, Rio was entered from a fresh side. It seemed a long drive through the streets to the Hôtel de l'Europe, where, after an excellent though hurried dinner, we contrived to be in time for a private representation at the Alcazar. As a rule, ladies do not go to this theatre, but there were a good many there on the present occasion. Neither the play nor the actors, however, were very interesting, and all our party were excessively tired; so we left early, and had a delightful row off to the yacht, in the bright moonlight.
Monday, August 28th.—We have all been so much interested in the advertisements we read in the daily papers of slaves to be sold or hired, that arrangements were made with a Brazilian gentleman for some of our party to have an opportunity of seeing the way in which these transactions are carried on. No Englishman is allowed to hold slaves here, and it is part of the business of the Legation to see that this law is strictly enforced. The secrets of their trade are accordingly jealously guarded by the natives, especially from the English. The gentlemen had therefore to disguise themselves as much as possible, one pretending to be a rich Yankee, who had purchased large estates between Santos and San Paulo, which he had determined to work with slave instead of coolie labour. He was supposed to have come to Rio to select some slaves, but would be obliged to see and consult his partner before deciding on purchase. They were taken to a small shop in the city, and, after some delay, were conducted to a room upstairs, where they waited a quarter of an hour. Twenty-two men and eleven women and children were then brought in for inspection. They declared themselves suitable for a variety of occupations, in-door and out, and all appeared to look anxiously at their possible purchaser, with a view to ascertain what they had to hope for in the future. One couple in particular, a brother and sister, about fourteen and fifteen years old respectively, were most anxious not to be separated, but to be sold together; and the tiny children seemed quite frightened at being spoken to or touched by the white men. Eight men and five women having been specially selected as fit subjects for further consideration, the visit terminated.
The daily Brazilian papers are full of advertisements of slaves for sale, and descriptions of men, pigs, children, cows, pianos, women, houses, &c., to be disposed of, are inserted in the most indiscriminate manner. In one short half-column of the 'Jornal do Commercio,' published within the last day or two, the following announcements, amongst many similar ones, appear side by side:—
| VENDE-SE uma escrava, de 22 annos, boa figura, lava, engomma e cose bem; informa-se na rua de S. Pedro n. 97. | FOR SALE.—A female slave, 22 years of age, a good figure, washes, irons, and sews well; for particulars apply at No. 97 rua de S. Pedro |
| VENDE-SE ou aluga-se um rico piano forte do autor Erard, de 3 cordas, por 280$, garantido; na rua da Quitanda n. 42, 2 andar. | FOR SALE, OR TO BE LET ON Hire.—A splendid trichord pianoforte by Erard, for $280, guaranteed; apply at rua da Quitanda No. 42, 2nd floor. |
| VENDE-SE, por 1,500$, um escravo de 20 annos, para serviço de padaria; na rua da Princeza dos Cajueiros n. 97. | TO BE SOLD FOR $1,500.—A male slave 20 years of age, fit for a baker's establishment; apply at rua da Princeza dos Cajueiros No. 97. |
| VENDE-SE uma machina Singer, para qualquer costura, trabalha perfeitamente, por preço muito commodo; trata-se na rua do Sabão n. 95. | FOR SALE.—On very reasonable terms, a Singer's sewing-machine, adapted for any description of work; works splendidly: apply at No. 95 rua do Sabão. |
| VENDE-SE uma preta moça, boa figura e de muito boa indole, com tres filhos, sendo uma negrinha de 6 annos, um moleque de 5 e uma ingenua de 3, cabenda cozinhar bem, lavar e engommar; na mesma casa vende-se só uma negrinha de 12 annos, de conducta afiançada e muito propria para serviço de casa de familia, por ja ter bons principios, tendo vindo de Santa Catharina; na rua da Uruguayana n. 90 sobrado. | FOR SALE.—A good black woman, good figure, good disposition, with three children, who are a little black girl 6 years of age, a black boy of 5, and a child 3 years of age; she is a good cook, washes and irons well. At the same house there is likewise for sale a little black girl 12 years of age: her character will be guaranteed; she is well adapted for the service of a family, as she has had a good beginning, having come from Santa Catharina; apply at No. 90 rua da Uruguayana, first floor. |
| VENDE-SE o Diccionario portuguez de Lacerda, em dous grandes volumes, novo, vindo pelo ultimo paquete, por 30$, custão aqui 40$; na rua do Hospicio n. 15, 2º andar. | FOR SALE.—Lacerda's Portuguese Dictionary, in two large volumes, quite new, arrived by the last mail, price $30, costs here $40; No. 15 rua do Hospicio, 2nd floor. |
| VENDE-SE uma preta de meia idade, que cozinha, lava, e engomma com perfeição; para tratar na rua do Viscande de Itaúna n. 12. | FOR SALE.—A middle-aged black woman, who is a first-rate cook, washes and irons splendidly; for particulars apply at No. 12 rua do Viscande de Itaúna No. 12. |
| VENDEM-SE arreios para carrocinhas de pão; na rua do General Camara n. 86, placa. | FOR SALE.—Harnesses for small carts for delivery of bread; apply at No. 86 rua do General Camara. |
| VENDEM-SE 20 moleques, de 14 a 20 annos, vindos do Maranhão no ultimo vapor; na rua da Prainha n. 72. | FOR SALE.—20 young blacks from 14 to 20 years of age just arrived from Maranham by the last steamer; No. 72 rua da Prainha. |
We had many visitors to breakfast to-day, and it was nearly two o'clock before we could set off for the shore en route to Tijuca. We drove nearly as far as the Botanical Gardens, where it had been arranged that horses should meet us; but our party was such a large one, including children and servants, that some little difficulty occurred at this point in making a fair start. It was therefore late before we started, the clouds were beginning to creep down the sides of the hills, and it had grown very dusk by the time we reached the Chinisi river. Soon afterwards the rain began to come down in such tropical torrents, that our thin summer clothing was soaked through and through long before we reached the Tijuca. At last, to our great joy, we saw ahead of us large plantations of bananas, and then some gas-lights, which exist even in this remote locality. We followed them for some little distance, but my horse appeared to have such a very decided opinion as to the proper direction for us to take, that we finally decided to let him have his own way, for it was by this time pitch dark, and none of us had ever been this road before. As we hoped, the horse knew his own stables, and we soon arrived at the door of White's hotel, miserable, drenched objects, looking forward to a complete change of clothing. Unfortunately the cart with our luggage had not arrived, so it was in clothes borrowed from kind friends that we at last sat down, a party of about forty, to a sort of table-d'hôte dinner, and it continued to pour with rain during the whole evening, only clearing up just at bed-time.
Tuesday, August 29th.—After all the fine weather we have had lately, it was provoking to find, on getting up this morning, that the rain still came steadily down. Daylight enabled us to see what a quaint-looking place this hotel is. It consists of a series of low wooden detached buildings, mostly one story high, with verandahs on both sides, built round