What to See in England. Gordon Home
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=Fares.=—Single 2s. 8d. … 1s. 7–½d.
Return 5s. 4d. … 3s. 3d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"The Peahen," "Red Lion Hotel,"
"The George," etc.
=Alternative Routes.=—Train from Euston, L. and N.W. Railway.
Train from King's Cross, Great Northern Railway.
St. Albans is an ancient town of much historic interest, being built close to the site of the old Roman city of Verulamium. West of the town; by a little stream, the Ver, some remains of the old Roman wall may be seen, and the frequent discoveries made there are placed in the museum in the town. St. Alban, or Albanus, who has given his name to the town, was the first British martyr. He lived in the reign of Diocletian, and was beheaded on the site of the abbey raised in his honour. The Benedictine monastery which arose became the wealthiest and most popular in England through the fame of the saint. Most of the kings from Saxon times until the dissolution of the monastery in Henry VIII.'s reign, visited this shrine. In later times the Abbey Church was made parochial, and finally a cathedral.
St. Albans owes some of its importance to its situation on the famous northward road; Watling Street runs through it. Owing to its proximity to London, it was the scene of two battles in its High Street during the Wars of the Roses.
The cathedral occupies the highest site of any in England. The square Norman tower owes its red hue to the Roman bricks used in its construction. One remarkable feature is the length of the nave, which is only exceeded by Winchester. Every style of architecture is represented in the interior from Early Norman to Late Perpendicular, and in the triforium of the north transept are to be seen some Saxon balusters and columns. The shrine of St. Alban is in the Saint's Chapel, with the interesting watching-loft on the north side. The west end has been very much renovated by Lord Grimthorpe.
At Gorhambury can be seen the tower of the ruined house formerly occupied by Sir Nicholas Bacon, and visited by Queen Elizabeth. In the antique church of St. Michael in Verulamium is Lord Bacon's monument.
[Illustration: F. Frith & Co., Ltd.
ST. ALBANS ABBEY.
Showing the Central Tower constructed of Roman bricks from Verulamium.]
STOKE POGES CHURCH, BUCKS
=How to get there.=—Train from Paddington. Great Western Rly.
=Nearest Station.=—Slough (2–½ miles from Stoke Poges).
=Distance from London.=—21–¼ miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between ¾ to 1 hour.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 3s. 0d. 2s. 0d. 1s. 6d.
Return 5s. 0d. 3s. 6d. …
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—Windsor—"White Hart Hotel,"
"Castle Hotel," "Bridge House Hotel," etc.
=Alternative Route.=—Train from Waterloo to Windsor, 3 miles from
Stoke Poges. London and South-Western Railway.
"The curfew tolls the knell of parting day" has immortalised the otherwise unimportant district of Stoke Poges—a parish embracing numerous small hamlets.
Leaving Slough by the north end of the railway bridge, one turns first to the right and then to the left, and soon after leaving the uninteresting bricks and mortar of the town, one enters some of the most beautiful lanes in the home counties. At the first cross road one turns to the right, and again through an open gate to the left, and thence a field path leads to the churchyard.
The little church, which is always open, has walls of old red brick and flint, with patches of rough plaster. It is wonderfully picturesque, with its partial covering of ivy and beautiful background of fine old trees, and no one can view the scene at sunset without recalling Gray's immortal Elegy written in a Country Churchyard—those exquisite verses which breathe in every line the peace of an ideal country scene. To a lover of Nature there can be nothing more beautiful than the lines—
Now fades the glimmering landscape on the sight,
And all the air a solemn stillness holds;
Save where the beetle wheels his drony flight,
And drowsy tinklings lull the distant folds.
Near the east wall of the church is the red brick tomb where Gray sleeps his last sleep, and in the meadow by the chancel window stands the huge cenotaph raised to his memory by John Penn. Of the little cottage where he spent his summer vacations and wrote the Elegy nothing now remains. Gray was born in London in 1716, and died at Cambridge in 1771.
The interior of the church has lost its high old pews and galleries, so that it lacks the interest it might have had, for until these were removed the building was almost exactly what Gray knew so well.
[Illustration: Mackenzie Fine Art Co.
STOKE POGES CHURCHYARD.
Associated with Gray's Elegy.]
WINDSOR
=How to get there.=—Train from Paddington. Great Western Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—Windsor.
=Distance from London.=—21–¼ miles.
=Average Time.=—Varies between ½ to 1 hour.
1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—Single 3s. 6d. 2s. 3d. 1s. 9d.
Return 5s. 6d. 4s. 0d. 3s. 4d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=—"White Hart Hotel," "Bridge House
Hotel," "Castle Hotel," etc.
=Alternative Route.=—Train from Waterloo. L. and S.W. Railway.
The chief interest of Windsor centres in its castle, without which visitors to the town would probably be few in number. Some of the old streets are narrow, and there are many architecturally interesting buildings. The business portion of the town lies nearest to the Castle, the residential parts being chiefly round the Great Park. The Town Hall, in the High Street, was commenced in 1686, and was completed under the direction of Sir Christopher Wren.
The history of Windsor Castle commences with the granting of the site of the castle and town to the Abbot of Westminster by Edward the Confessor. William the Conqueror, was, however, so struck with its splendid military position, that he revoked the grant, and where the castle now stands built a fortress of considerable size. Of this there is no description extant. The first court was held at Windsor by Henry I., and during his reign many splendid functions took place there. Edward III. employed William of Wykeham to rebuild almost the whole castle. Henry VII., Henry VIII., and Elizabeth all made additions to the buildings. Many magnificent paintings were added during the reign of Charles I. George I. made Windsor Castle his chief residence, and appointed a Royal Commission to rebuild the castle in its present form at a cost of more than one million sterling. About 1860, Wolsey's Chapel, now known as the Albert Memorial Chapel, was restored in memory of the Prince Consort, and the Duchess of Kent's mausoleum was erected. St. George's Chapel, a splendid specimen of ecclesiastical architecture, was originally built by Edward III., and was finally restored in 1887. The State apartments, which can be seen when the Royal family are absent, are sumptuously furnished and contain much beautiful tapestry and a valuable collection of pictures.
Windsor Great Park, the chief feature of which is the Long Walk, is well stocked with deer.
[Illustration: