Эволюция потребления. Как спрос формирует предложение с XV века до наших дней. Франк Трентманн
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периода см.: Carlo Belfanti, «The Civilization of Fashion: At the Origins of a Western Social Institution», Journal of Social History 43, no. 2, 2009: 261—83.
125
Linda Levy Peck, Consuming Splendour: Society and Culture in Seventeenthcentury England (Cambridge, 2005).
126
Thirsk, Economic Policy and Projects. См. также: Sara Pennel, «Material Culture in Seventeenthcentury «Britain» из: Trentmann, ed., Oxford Handbook of the History of Consumption, гл. 4.
127
Daniel Defoe, A Tour through England and Wales, II (London 1727/1928), 126.
128
Jane Whittle & Elizabeth Griffiths, Consumption and Gender in the Early Seventeenthcentury Household: The World of Alice Le Strange (Oxford, 2013), 120—4, 144—53. О растущем ассортименте продуктов, их качестве и ценах см. далее: Thirsk, Economic Policy and Projects.
129
Lorna Weatherill, Consumer Behaviour and Material Culture in Britain, 1660–1760 (London, 1996, 2nd edn), таблица 3.3, 49.
130
Edward Roberts & Karen Parker, eds., Southampton Probate Inventories 1447–1575 (Southampton, 1992), Vol. I, 54—5.
131
Ann SmartMartin, «Makers, Buyers and Users: Consumerism as a Material Culture Framework», из: Winterthur Portfolio 28, no. 2/3, 1993: 141—57, p. 154. См. также: Cary Carson, «The Consumer Revolution in Colonial British America: Why Demand?» из: Of Consuming Interests: The Style of Life in the Eighteenth Century, eds. Cary Carson, Ronald Hoffman & Peter J. Albert (Charlottesville, VA, 1994), 483–697; а также Carole Shammas, The Preindustrial Consumer in England and America (Oxford, 1990).
132
Peter King, «Pauper Inventories and the Material Lives of the Poor in the Eighteenth and Early Nineteenth Centuries», из: Chronicling Poverty: The Voices and Strategies of the English Poor, 1640–1840, eds. Tim Hitchcock, Peter King & Pamela Sharpe (New York, 1997), 155—91.
133
John Styles, «Lodging at the Old Bailey: Lodgings and Their Furnishing in Eighteenthcentury London», из: Gender, Taste and Material Culture in Britain and North America, 1700–1830, eds. John Styles & Amanda Vickery (New Haven, CT, 2006).
134
Charles P. Moritz, Travels, Chiefly on Foot, through Several Parts of England in 1782 (London, 1797, 2nd edn), 24.
135
Shane White & Graham White, «Slave Clothing and AfricanAmerican Culture in the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries», Past & Present 148, 1995: 149–186, цитата на с. 156.
136
See Frank Salomon, «Indian Women of Early Quito as Seen through Their Testatements», The Americas 44, no. 3, 1988: 325—41, особенно 334—7; а также Elena Philips, «The Iberian Globe», из: Amelia Peck, ed., Interwoven Globe: The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500–1800 (New York, 2013), 28–45.
137
John Irwin & P. R. Schwartz, Studies in IndoEuropean Textile History (Ahmedabad, 1966). О распространении хлопка по всему миру см.: Sven Beckert, Empire of Cotton: A New History of Global Capitalism (London, 2014).
138
«First Report» (24 Dec. 1783), in Reports from the Committee on Illicit Practices Used in Defrauding the Revenue (1783—4), Vol. XI, цитата на с. 228, данные из приложения 4, 2041. См. также: William J. Ashworth, Customs and Excise: Trade, Production and Consumption in England, 1640–1845 (Oxford, 2003), 149—50. О французских контрабандистах: Michael Kwass, Contraband: Louis Mandrin and the Making of a Global Underground (Cambridge, MA, 2014), в особенности 106—8, 218—20; а также Giorgio Riello, Cotton: The Fabric That Made the Modern World (Cambridge, 2013), 121. О контрабандной торговле шелком см.: William Farrell, «Silk and Globalization in Eighteenthcentury London», PhD thesis, Birkbeck College/ University of London, 2013, 148—95.
139
Maxine Berg, «In Pursuit of Luxury: Global History and British Consumer Goods in the Eighteenth Century», Past & Present 182, no. 1, 2004: 85—142.
140
J. F., The Merchant’s WareHouse Laid Open: Or, the Plain Dealing LinnenDraper. Shewing How to Buy All Sorts of Linnen and Indian Goods (London, 1696), A3, 7, 27, 29–30. О разнообразии узоров, доступных даже более бедным потребителям, см. John Styles: Threads of Feeling: The London Foundling Hospital’s Textile Tokens, 1740—70 (London, 2010).
141
О Франции: Roche, Culture of Clothing, 12639. О шелке см. Natalie Rothstein: «Silk in the Early Modern Period, c. 1500–1780», из: D. T. Jenkins, The Cambridge History of Western Textiles (Cambridge, 2003), 528—61; а также Farrell, «Silk and Globalization in Eighteenth-century London». См. также: S. Horrell, J. Humphries & K. Sneath, «Consumption Conundrums Unravelled», из: Economic History Review (online version 17 Dec. 2014).
142
Roger-Pol Droit, How are Things? A Philosophical Experiment, trans. Theo Cuffe (London, 2005), 52.
143
Четырнадцать дукатов в 1546 году, см. Patricia Allerston: «Clothing and Early Modern Venetian Society», из: Continuity and Change 15, no. 3, 2000: 367—90, на с. 372.
144
1765, цитата из: Beverly Lemire, Fashion’s Favourite: The Cotton Trade and the Consumer in Britain, 1660–1800 (Oxford, 1991), 94. См. также: Prasannan Parthasarathi & Giorgio Riello, eds., The Spinning World: A Global History of Cotton Textiles, 1200–1850 (Oxford, 2009).
145
Roche, Culture of Clothing, 108—11; а также John Styles, The Dress of the People: Everyday Fashion in Eighteenthcentury England (New Haven, CT, 2007).
146
Andrew Bevan & D. Wengrow, eds., Cultures of Commodity Branding (Walnut Creek, CA, 2010).
147
McKendrick, из McKendrick, Brewer & Plumb, Birth of a Consumer Society, 141.
148
Phyllis G. Tortora