Walking on Guernsey. Paddy Dillon
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Guernsey is not part of the United Kingdom, but owes its allegiance to the British Crown
Wildlife
Plants
The Channel Islands are noted for their flowers, and it is possible to find wild flowers in bloom at any time of the year. The southerly, maritime disposition of the islands and their range of habitats, from fertile soil to barren rocks, ensure that a wide variety of species can thrive. Even attempting to shortlist them is a pointless exercise, with hundreds of species growing around the islands. Bear in mind that the sea is also a bountiful source of plants, with the tiny Lihou Island surrounded by 130 species of seaweed. Add to this the plants that are cultivated in greenhouses and gardens and the study of Guernsey’s floral tributes becomes a vast undertaking!
Even walkers who have no great interest in flora cannot fail to be amazed at the sight of rampant flowers growing around the rugged coast and hedgerows of Guernsey. Add abundant swathes of sea campion and red campion, blazes of gorse and broom and nodding ox-eye daisies, and the result is a riot of colour. The sight of fleshy-leaved mesembryanthemum colonising entire cliffs is impressive and unusual. A comprehensive field guide to wild flowers is an essential companion on any walk, but make sure that it encompasses not only a good range of British plants but also plants from the Mediterranean, which are at their northernmost limits around Guernsey. La Société Guernesiaise, www.societe.org.gg, gathers plenty of information about Guernsey’s botany.
Fleshy-leaved mesembryanthemum is common and was once used to camouflage concrete bunkers
Animals
Mammoth, woolly rhinoceros and deer are known to have flourished on the Channel Islands, but today the islands are devoid of large wild mammals. Rabbits do well almost everywhere, but little else is likely to be seen except for evidence of moles and small rodents. Look to the sea for other species, such as dolphins. Local differences occur between the islands, such as the fact that toads are found on Jersey, but not Guernsey, although green lizards live on both islands. Insect life is abundant and varied, with a range of colourful butterflies.
The birdlife is amazingly rich, with a range of residents and a host of migratory species. While the landmass is rather small to support many raptors, there are owls, kestrels and sparrowhawks. The coastal margins abound in interest, attracting a range of waders that probe the beaches and rock pools for food. The cliffs and pebbly beaches provide safe nesting places for a variety of gulls and terns. At the right time of year puffins can be seen on some of the smaller islands and stacks, while a large population of gannets can be seen near Alderney. There are small areas of heathland where the rare Dartford warbler may be seen or heard, and there are a few areas of dense woodland, marsh and grassland which attract particular species. The range of bird habitats is under pressure from human development and recreation on such tiny islands but, even so, there is plenty to see.
Listing a couple of hundred species of birds is a pointless exercise, and so much depends on the time of year and prevailing conditions. A good field guide to birds is useful, and there are titles which are specific to the Channel Islands. The Guernsey Museum has exhibits relating to the natural history of the island. La Société Guernesiaise, www.societe.org.gg, collects information for the annual Guernsey Bird Report, or see www.guernseybirds.org.gg for information. Similar organisations include the Alderney Society, www.alderneysociety.org, and La Société Sercquaise, www.socsercq.sark.gg.
Protected areas
There is no national park on Guernsey, but there are several small nature reserves, ranging from marshland to woodland. The National Trust of Guernsey has already been mentioned, which is dedicated to preserving areas of land around the island. There are also large and very important marine reserves, some of which are particularly difficult to access. These include an area around Lihou and an area stretching west of Alderney.
The National Trust of Guernsey is a major landowner, maintaining some interesting short walks
Getting to Guernsey
The popular little aircraft ‘Joey’ flew for the last time in 2015
A map of transport routes makes Guernsey look like the centre of the universe, with ferries and flights converging on the island from all points of the compass. Bear in mind that there are seasonal variations, with more services available in the summer months than in the winter. See Appendix C for a list of contacts that may be useful in planning your trip.
Who can go?
People who hold British or European Union passports or identity cards do not need visas to visit Guernsey. All air travellers must produce some form of photo-ID or they may be denied boarding. People who have obtained a visa to visit Britain can also visit Guernsey during the period for which their visa is valid. Dogs and other pets can be brought from Britain to Guernsey, subject to any conditions that might be imposed by ferry or flight operators. Usual practice applies to walking dogs in the countryside. Keep them under control, especially near livestock. Dogs may be barred from beaches during the summer months and anti-fouling laws are in place everywhere.
Flights
Direct flights to Guernsey operate from over a dozen British airports, as well as a couple of airports in France and Switzerland. Scheduled and charter flights are available. Scheduled flights are mostly operated by Aurigny, www.aurigny.com, Flybe, www.flybe.com, and Blue Islands, www.blueislands.com. Aurigny and Blue Islands also operate inter-island flights. Summer charter flights are offered by Guernsey Travel, www.guernseytravel.com. This is not an exhaustive list and choices are quite bewildering, so it takes time to sift and sort between the operators, schedules and prices, but with patience some extraordinarily good deals can be sourced.
Ferries
Ferries serve Guernsey from Britain and France. Ferries from Britain are operated by Condor, www.condorferries.co.uk, sailing from Weymouth, Poole and Portsmouth. Passengers can choose between fast and slow ships, with links to and from Jersey. Condor also serves Guernsey from St Malo in France. Other ferry services from France are operated by Manche Îles Express, www.manche-iles-express.com, sailing from Diélette, also offering links with Jersey and Alderney, as well as sailing between Jersey and Sark.
Tour operators
Package holidays to the Channel Islands can be arranged for any period from a weekend upwards, freeing you from the hassle of trying to co-ordinate ferries, flights, accommodation and meals. Prices are quite competitive and there are seasonal variations, so it pays to shop around for the best deals.
Castle Cornet has witnessed centuries of change at St Peter Port
When to go
Guernsey is suitable as a year-round destination and generally enjoys slightly milder weather than the south of England, but the weather is still highly variable and impossible to forecast accurately. Winters are mild, but there may be frosts and, very occasionally, snow. Very bad weather at any time of year