Walking on Guernsey. Paddy Dillon
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Sark, so that the walking is not rushed, and the routes on those islands are presented with that in mind.
Channel Island Way walkers can follow rugged cliff-top paths round the island of Jersey
Walkers who have also obtained a copy of the Cicerone guidebook Walking on Jersey can combine coastal walks around Guernsey, Alderney, Sark and Herm with a coastal walk around Jersey, thereby completing the ‘Channel Island Way’. The full distance is around 178km (110 miles) (see Appendix A).
WALK 1
St Peter Port Town Trail
| Start/Finish | Liberation Monument, St Peter Port |
| Distance | Variable |
| Terrain | Urban roads, sometimes steep or with steps, as well as parks. |
| Refreshments | Plenty of choice around St Peter Port. |
| Transport | All bus services on Guernsey operate to and from the bus terminus on South Esplanade. |
St Peter Port is the largest town on Guernsey and the second largest in the Channel Islands. Approaching the town by ferry, its buildings look as if they are stacked onto a cliff face, and the land certainly rises very abruptly from the harbour. A rigid route description is hardly appropriate, and in fact there is no need to dedicate a whole day to a tour. Simply explore a different area of town any time you are passing through. There are so many places of interest, many of them apparent even if you are not particularly on the lookout for them. Lots of little plaques and memorials are fixed to all sorts of structures. There is a fine museum, several interesting and historic buildings, steep and narrow streets, some with flights of steps, and a number of green spaces to discover. Free town plans are widely available.
The focal point for exploring St Peter Port is around the Weighbridge and the Liberation Monument between the harbour and a large marina. Truck-loads of tomatoes and other goods for shipment used to be weighed and then weighed again unladen at the Weighbridge. The difference between the two weights was the weight of the goods, for which payment would be made. Wandering along the North Esplanade leads past the Guernsey Information Centre, tel 01481 723552, and onto The Quay. The bus terminus lies beyond on South Esplanade. Walk 2 starts on South Esplanade. High Street runs parallel to The Quay, in effect doubling back a few steps inland from the Parish Church of St Peter Port. The church is worth a visit; it dates from at least 1048, when it was referred to as Sancti Petri de Portu Maris.
The old Market Hall is tucked away behind the church, but has been converted into shops and no longer features market stalls. There are plenty of shops along High Street, continuing along The Pollet, offering goods at duty-free prices. At the post office on Smith Street enquiries can be made about Guernsey and Alderney stamps and first day covers. Climbing through St Peter Port is a matter of following steep and narrow streets, or very steep and very narrow streets, or even flights of steps. Energetic walkers might dash up and down these, but most people will take them slowly and easily.
Buildings rise straight from the harbourside in St Peter Port and narrow streets climb inland
St Julian’s Avenue rises fairly gently from the Liberation Monument and can be used to reach the Candie Gardens. A statue of Victor Hugo stands here and there are views across the harbour to the islands of Herm, Jethou and Sark. Sitting in the heart of the gardens is the Guernsey Museum, tel 01481 726518, and there is an entry charge. This is a good starting point for those wishing to enquire into the history, natural history and heritage of the island. Despite limited space it tells the story of Guernsey from its bedrock upwards.
Visitors are often intrigued to see stone towers on the skyline when approaching St Peter Port by sea. These include Victoria Tower, Elizabeth College, St James’ Centre and church spires. Walking from one to another involves negotiating a network of narrow streets, and if a route can be contrived down to the lovely green space of Trinity Square, then explorations can continue with some sense of order. Along the way some of the financial institutions that take advantage of Guernsey’s low taxation rate can be seen.
A flight of steps near Trinity Square, alongside the Victoria Homes, can be used to climb to a road called Hauteville. Following this back down towards the town centre leads past Victor Hugo’s house, where he lived in exile from France from 1855 to 1870. The uppermost room of Hauteville House, tel 01481 721911, was Hugo’s study, which enjoyed a view of his beloved France on a clear day. Further down the road is the National Trust of Guernsey Victorian Shop and Parlour, where Trust members may be in period costume.
There is another opportunity to take a run at the shops along High Street, or you could follow the South Esplanade to Castle Pier. If you do go this way, watch out for a sculpture telling the story of Othon, a Swiss knight who was a great friend of Edward I, who was granted the Channel Islands for life in 1277. The sculpture is naturally beside the Credit Suisse offices!
St Peter Port Parish Church is generally referred to as the Town Church
Castle Pier has an upper walkway which can be used to reach Castle Cornet, which has an entry charge, tel 01481 721657. The castle grew on a rocky islet to defend St Peter Port and Guernsey. If the castle is visited, the rest of the day might quietly disappear as there is so much to see.
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