Trip Data: 11S 345061 4106896; 38/46 miles; 6/1 days

      Topos: Florence Lake, Ward Mountain, Blackcap Mountain, Mt. Henry, Mt. Goddard

      Highlights: Beyond Muir Trail Ranch, this trip visits remote backcountry in the northwestern corner of Kings Canyon National Park. The scenery along South Fork San Joaquin River is stunning, with a parade of thrilling cataracts, cascades, and waterfalls visible from the trail. The long journey up the river culminates in a splendid crescendo at Martha Lake, a large alpine lake cradled in a rocky cirque basin nearly surrounded by craggy peaks and ridges. Along the way, sore backpackers can soak their weary bones in the soothing waters of Blayney Hot Springs.

      HEADS UP! You can save a total of 8 miles of uninspiring hiking along the shore of Florence Lake with arrangements for a water-taxi ride across the lake. The different distances shown above and in the Day headers below reflect this (with water taxi/without).

      WATER TAXI

      Rather than backpack the first 4 miles, you could purchase a ticket at the store and take advantage of the ferry ride across Florence Lake. From 8:30 A.M. to 5 P.M., the ferry makes a minimum of five scheduled trips (more on weekends) across the lake and back. From the ferry dock at the far end of the lake, climb uphill over barren granite slopes for a half mile to the junction with the trail around Florence Lake. For your return, there’s a radiophone near the dock, from which you can call the store for your ride back.

DAY 1 (Florence Lake Trailhead to PCT/JMT Junction, 5.5/9.5 miles): If you’ve elected not to take the ferry, follow the paved road through the picnic area, down to the lake, and along the west shore to the beginning of single-track trail. Enter John Muir Wilderness and proceed generally south across gently rolling terrain beneath mixed forest for 2 miles to a junction with the Burnt Corral Meadows Trail. Continue ahead (southeast) at the junction, traveling above the southwest arm of the lake for another mile to a junction with a lateral to the Burnt Corral Meadow Trail. Go ahead (southeast) here.

      From there, head downhill to a bridge over a stream. A short stroll leads to another bridge, this one spanning South Fork San Joaquin River at 3.5 miles from the trailhead. Lodgepole-shaded campsites are spread along both banks of the river and a pit toilet is up the north hillside. From the bridge, head upstream and briefly follow the trail along the river until a moderate, half-mile climb over granite slabs leads to the ferry dock lateral.

      JEEP ROAD

      Keen eyes will spy a primitive jeep road beyond the southeast end of the lake. Muir Trail Ranch, 2.5 miles upstream, uses an old Army personnel carrier to transport guests along this road, which parallels and occasionally coincides with the route of the hiking trail. Such activity would seem incompatible with the idea of wilderness, but the family-owned operation has been in business for more than 50 years and was grandfathered into the 1964 Wilderness Act.

      From the ferry junction, turn right (east) and climb over granite slabs and up dry gullies for a mile to the edge of pastoral Double Meadow. There is an ancient, fallen Jeffrey pine next to the trail here, and a cross-section of the tree is labeled with a chronology of human events. After skirting the meadow, the trail crosses a seasonal stream lined with grasses and wildflowers and then makes a gradual descent to a crossing of Alder Creek, where sheltered campsites are found on the far bank. A short distance past the creek is a lateral to better campsites near the river at Lower Blayney Campground. Past this junction, the broad expanse of Blayney Meadows momentarily springs into view, but the path quickly veers away in favor of a forested route that bypasses the meadows.

      About 2.5 miles from the ferry dock, you pass through a gate at the fenced boundary of privately owned Muir Trail Ranch. The route across the ranch property may be difficult to distinguish amid a maze of dusty stock trails and the churned-up jeep road. Farther down the road, pay close attention to makeshift signs that direct you away from the road and onto single-track trail to the left. Proceed southeastward through open terrain and light forest on gently graded trail to crossings of Sallie Keyes and Senger creeks. A moderate climb of a hillside, followed by a lightly forested traverse, leads to a chain gate.

      MUIR TRAIL RANCH

      Although the presence of a resort seems inconsistent with a designated wilderness area, Muir Trail Ranch is hiker-friendly. For a small fee, packages can be held at the ranch for John Muir and Pacific Crest through-hikers. On the rare occasion when the ranch is not completely booked, usually only in early June, backpackers can purchase an overnight stay complete with three meals. Unfortunately, single meals are not available to non-guests. For more information, check out the ranch’s website at www.muirtrailranch.com.

      Beyond the gate, you continue across an open hillside in cadence to the rhythmic sound of a Pelton wheel that generates electricity for the ranch below. Reach an open knoll and then drop to a signed junction of a lateral accessing the ranch and Blayney Hot Springs.

BLAYNEY HOT SPRINGS

      To visit the hot springs, turn right (south) and proceed a mere 50 feet, where the trail divides again—follow the path on the left marked HOT SPRINGS and pass overused campsites to the north bank of South Fork San Joaquin River. Ford the broad stretch of the river (difficult in early season) and reach more overused campsites on the far bank. Beyond the campsites, a use trail crosses Shooting Star Meadow to access the public pool at Blayney Hot Springs. Please enter and exit carefully, as the muddy pool is very susceptible to erosion.

      Just beyond a patch of willows is “Warm Lake,” a magical little gem of a swimming hole that is the result of an unlikely combination of beaver dams, moraines, and springs having come together far below the usual elevations common for Sierra lakes. This area is very fragile, so please minimize your impact by being a good steward of this healing place.

      Return to the junction and head southeast on gradually rising trail through light forest to a well-signed junction with a steep lateral to the PCT/JMT climbing northbound toward Selden Pass. Go ahead (southeast) and upstream as the main trail continues to parallel the river through a scattered