Sierra South. Mike White
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lodgepole pines, and Jeffrey pines. Pass by a stagnant pond and reach an extensive camping area that occupies a forested bench above the river, 5.5 miles from the ferry dock, just prior to a junction with the John Muir Trail (8025´; 11S 334845, 4121555).
DAY 2 (PCT/JMT Junction to Goddard Canyon Trail Junction, 5.75 miles): Now on the southeast-trending JMT, follow the course of the river through a mixture of granite and conifers, with fine views of the South Fork San Joaquin over the next couple of miles or so. Just prior to the confluence of Piute Creek with the river is a junction with the Piute Pass Trail, 7.75 miles from the ferry dock. Go ahead (briefly east) and immediately find a steel bridge that spans the tumultuous creek and crosses the border into Kings Canyon National Park. A number of good campsites can be found on a flat near the junction, bordered by chaparral and partially shaded by widely scattered Jeffrey pines.
Hike upstream on a gradual, exposed climb around John Muir Rock and then draw nearer the river as it flows through a narrow channel of dark rock. About 1.5 miles from the Piute Pass Trail junction, enter the cool forested glade of aspens and pines misnamed Aspen Meadow. While there is no semblance of a meadow here, but there are a few sheltered campsites.
Leave Aspen Meadow behind and continue to follow the river upstream on a gradual, mile-long climb of a narrow and exposed section of the canyon. Cross a steel bridge over the river to a small, forested flat, where a use trail leads shortly downstream to campsites. Now on the south side of the river, pass through a gate near more campsites, and walk through wildflower gardens to ford a vigorous stream draining several tarns below LeConte Divide. Reach campsites shaded by a mixed forest of aspens, lodgepole pines, and junipers near the signed junction with the Goddard Canyon Trail (10,100´; 11S 340681, 4117756).
From the junction, head either right (south) a short distance up the Goddard Canyon Trail, or left (briefly east, then north) across the river on the JMT’s wooden bridge to fine campsites within sound of the soothing South Fork San Joaquin.
DAY 3 (Goddard Canyon Trail Junction to Martha Lake, 7.75 miles): If necessary, return to the junction and take the Goddard Canyon Trail southward. Climb moderately through a light forest of lodgepole pines a half mile to Franklin Meadow, where tall aspens dot a picturesque, wildflower-laden grassland bisected by gurgling rivulets. A couple of primitive campsites are near the south end of the meadow just above the river.
Follow the trail away from the meadow and the river for a while on a gradual-to-moderate climb through the trees. Soon, the narrowing walls of the canyon force the path up the hillside and along an ascending traverse above the river. Pass more campsites on a narrow bench overlooking the river on the way to a lush hillside well watered by a series of rivulets and carpeted with willows, aspens, and wildflowers, including paintbrush, clover, coneflower, columbine, and heather. Visible across this verdant meadowland is Pig Chute, where a seasonal stream pours down a narrow, rocky cleft beside a dark, knife-edged protrusion of rock. Farther up the trail, a spectacular waterfall spills into an emerald pool.
For a while, the trail heads upstream with spectacular views across Goddard Canyon of the cascading river plunging down a narrow, deep, rocky cleft. Along the way, pass two more waterfalls as scenic as any to be found in the High Sierra and cross several flower-lined streams spilling across the trail.
Near the confluence with North Goddard Creek, the canyon widens, allowing the river to slow down and broaden. Stroll through meadowlands for a fine view of both river canyons separated by a low rock dome. A short, moderate climb leads to an unsigned junction with the Hell-for-Sure Pass Trail, 5 miles from the JMT junction. A few primitive campsites shaded by a grove of trees can be found a short distance beyond the junction, near a creek crossing. Go ahead (south-southeast) on the Goddard Canyon Trail.
Now the upper part of Goddard Canyon spreads out in subalpine splendor on an ascent of lush meadowlands, unbroken except for an occasional stunted pine or small clump of willows. Pockets of lupine and heather accent the green meadow as you gaze south and southeastward toward the mighty hulks of Mt. Goddard and Mt. Reinstein. Eventually, the path grows indistinct, but the route upstream along the South Fork is obvious on the way to its birthplace beneath the LeConte and Goddard divides. Flowers cover the slopes, including daisy, shooting star, and paintbrush.
After crossing the outlet stream from Lake Confusion, which is high above, begin a moderately steep, cross-country ascent over grassy benches and granite slabs to the lip of the basin holding Martha Lake. From there, a short, easy stroll leads to the west shore of the austere, rock-bound lake (11,004´; 11S 345061 4106896).
AT MARTHA LAKE
A smattering of small pocket meadows almost soften the predominantly barren, rocky shoreline of the lake. Situated above timberline near the convergence of three divides—Goddard, LeConte, and White—the lake is located in a truly alpine environment. The dark, rugged flanks of Mt. Goddard (13,368´) tower 2500 feet over the northeast shore, while Mt. Reinstein (12,604´) provides a fine backdrop to the south. Although developed campsites are virtually nonexistent, resourceful backpackers will be able to find sandy spots suitable for pitching a tent in various locations around the shoreline. Anglers can ply the waters in search of rainbow and golden trout. For cross-country enthusiasts, Martha Lake is also the western gateway into some of the most coveted off-trail terrain in the High Sierra: Directly east lies the mysterious realm of Ionian Basin, a trip through which is considered a Sierra classic. Mountaineers may want to tackle the Class 2–3 route up the southeast ridge of Mt. Goddard.
DAYS 4–6 (Martha Lake to Florence Lake Trailhead, 19/23 miles): Retrace your steps to the trailhead.
15 Red Mountain Basin
Trip Data: 11S 370824 1184859; 43.5/51.5 miles; 6/1 days
Topos: Florence Lake, Ward Mountain, Blackcap Mountain, Mt. Henry, Mt. Goddard
Highlights: Red Mountain Basin offers backpackers the type of scenery for which the High Sierra is famous: Alpine peaks, glacier-scoured terrain, and sparkling lakes highlight this rugged area on the west side of the LeConte Divide. A bounty of picturesque lakes—some near the trail and others a short, easy cross-country jaunt away—make excellent base camps for the exploration of the extensive basin. Travelers can expect to find solitude on this multilayer journey along the lightly used trails necessary to reach Red Mountain Basin.
HEADS UP! You can save 4 miles of uninspiring hiking along the shore of Florence Lake by arranging for a ferry ride across the lake.
DAY 1 (Florence Lake Trailhead to PCT/JMT Junction, 5.5 miles): (Recap Trip 14, Day 1.) Follow the trail 4 miles generally southward around Florence Lake, or take the ferry to the dock on the far side and take the ferry dock lateral east to meet the Florence Lake Trail. From this junction, go ahead (east) over granite slabs and up dry gullies on a combination of single-track trail and jeep road around Double Meadow and across Alder Creek to a junction with a lateral that accesses campsites at Lower Blayney Camp. Follow a forested path southeastward around Blayney Meadows and continue across the private property of Muir Trail Ranch. In the midst of the ranch property, reach a crudely signed junction and follow single-track trail southeastward across Sallie Keyes and Senger creeks, past the ranch boundary, and to a junction with a lateral to Blayney Hot Springs and Muir Trail Ranch. To visit the hot springs, follow the directions in the sidebar, “Blayney Hot Springs,”.
To stay or get back on the main trail, from the junction, head southeast on a gradual climb through light forest to a junction with a lateral trail north and steeply uphill to the PCT/JMT much farther north than you want to go. Don’t take the lateral; go ahead here (southeast), upstream along the river, to campsites on a forested bench just before a junction with the PCT/JMT